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  2. I've come a bit late to this thread Allan, but pleased I found it, I have one of these kits too & it is always good to see one built up to show the way I like what you're doing with it. Steve.
  3. Thanks! No masking involved! Didn’t want to have to deal with the inevitable bleed under the edges so used thin strips of black decal for the edges then painted in between. Only 48 strips of decal involved! It was time consuming but kind of relaxing in a very strange way. @Rabbit Leader the zebra thing didn’t occur to me! I just had to use this pattern - I don’t think all Heralds had it so there would have been an easier but more boring option - but I remember it on the Heralds I flew on all those years ago, so the boring option was never going to happen.
  4. Not all nail polish remover has acetone in it. Check the label before buying. I have never used it on styrene yet but it does a great job on unglueing your fingers. Chris
  5. I used testor model master enamels for the yellow. Aluminum is alclad. Red is tamiya acrylic. I've taken to using future and cotton swabs for my gloss coat lately. It's more time-consuming, but more forgiving and a very smooth finish. It probably won't work on larger models, but is great on small kits.
  6. Looks fantastic. Those defined panel lines really make it pop.
  7. Thanks Pascal, I ordered the same eye bolts as in your picture. It was the only size with the long non-threaded shoulder and in nickle plate. I had already ordered two sizes of brass eye bolts and they have a bore of 1.2mm with a 2mm threaded shaft and the diameter of the head of the eye are the only size differences with one being 3.85mm or 5/32" and the other being 3.10mm or 1/8" in diameter. The nickle plated ones from Knupfer have a 1.8mm bore with a 3mm threaded shaft and as far as I can tell the diameter of the head of the eye is 4mm. So, all in all the head size is about the same but the bore is a little larger on the nickle ones. Since the brass is pretty soft, I can always drill out the bore if needed. I am measuring the molded on bolt heads on the turbo fittings so, I can try and get the eye bolts and bolt head replacements as close to the right size as possible. The T-10 & T-11 brass collar sleeves are what go over the braided lines to create the end sleeve for the pressure tube look. I may have already mentioned this but, I plan on using the eye bolt on the end of the hose that connects to the turbo and just the collar sleeve on the other end. Go back a little and look at post 438 with the parts diagram and look at the green and pink hoses and you will see the hose ends that the eye bolts are meant to replicate. Tonight, I managed to cut the waste gate pipes apart and I'll be working on those while, I'm waiting on the parts from Uli and Knupfer to arrive. In the meantime, I have more pictures to load up and resize to be able to post that, continue showing the muffler assembly. I will probably get those done in the next couple of days. Even though I'm working ahead, I do have pictures of work already completed, to post so, more to come.
  8. Yesterday
  9. Very, very nice ‘Cuda. I just finished the Special Hobby 1/72 kit and your build is an interesting contrast with my more heavily weathered version. I’ve not posted a RFI yet, but pics of my Barracuda can be seen here - Bill
  10. Hi John, I'm keen to see this built, anything RNZAF gets my attention. From your above comment, you may be mistaking this for the old Heller kit that Revell reboxed for so long, one that I've recently finished in the Sharkmouth GB, this one is a fairly recent tooling, & as such should go together OK. Steve.
  11. Maybe you could keep the wheel wells open and mark it up as a water bomber! Despite the extra work though, she's shaping up.
  12. Looks brown on my iPad too, but is probably due to the bright red cutting mat background. AW
  13. Thanks Soeren It's a pretty simple kit really. Lloyd
  14. Hello everybody, and today the new GH2 Press. Line made of Nickel silver wire (Ø 0,4 mm), which is bent even more precisely, whereby it can easier cling to the Cable Tray and around the LH2 Feedline. Bending the wire was a bit more difficult, as the Nickel silver wire is less ductile than the Copper wire, but after a few tries it went smoothly. And also with the Fittings from insulating hose the line fits well. When inserting, I always put the long end first in the opening in the Umbilical plate, and then the front end into the in die TPS cladding of the Press. Line. This allows me to paint the line separately and then finally insert it. After that the LH2Umbilical is done, I can go on with the LO2Umbilical on the other side, where again the Cable Tray with the Supports has its turn.
  15. Very nicely executed. You can hold back with the weathering if you wish it's your choice. I still have the Tamiya version I did in the 80s on my shelf it's still not a bad model, but the Zveda version is on my list to do in the future.
  16. Gees and i was going to go old school and paint mine ?
  17. I use a Loctite CA product as well (401), kindly supplied from a place I probably shouldn't mention! I've been using this stuff for years and have had no adverse reactions so far. It's great for instant fixing and filling as well. Tamiya has just come out with a Quick Set thin liquid cement which I am using on my Matchbox Canberra. It's not a bad product either. Cheers and nice progress on Rita.. Dave
  18. Very nice. Based on the photos, it could easily pass for 1/72.
  19. Nice job on that & a lovely tribute to men who perished whilst "doing their jobs" RIP Messers Kemp & Farrar. Steve.
  20. Ditto ! ... Im a Y-Wing and B-wing guy myself. Ive always loved the attack types over fighter types any day of the week. Just turned 48 myself, i wonder if age has anything to do with that ? Dennis
  21. Hi Pat, Yes I have heard that too but don't know what type of glue they were using. I have used bog standard Loctite both liquid and gel for lord knows how many years and had no problems yet. Suppose it could be a particulat type of plastic - who knows. Two "bottles" of Loctite gel used on the Shackleton without any problem. Anyway you are probably best to play safe. Keep up the good work. Pete
  22. I love the F-5 Tiger! Tanks for sharing this very well done kit!
  23. OK - I think you're taking this 'Zebra' thing a little too far Julian! Cheers and nicely done.. Dave
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