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  2. Oh God; no-one warned us he had a wingman... Actually yer 80's mudmover preferred to mooch about in 4's or even better in 8's. Volunteers required for Fritag#s3-8.....
  3. Renault FT & M1917 PhotoSniper 3D (9788366148048) Kagero via Casemate UK The diminutive Renault tank that is often known somewhat incorrectly as the FT-17 was the first true tank of the form that we know today, having a separate turret that could rotate 360o to fire in all directions. It arrived late in WWI and was so successful that it was to stay in service in some locations for up to 25 years and even America was a customer, building their own under license as the M1917 until they could produce their own tanks of a sufficient standard. With upgrades along the way it managed to take part in the early days of WWII in French service although it was hopelessly outclassed by even the early-war German tanks and fell to their guns with alarming regularity, with many being abandoned by their unfortunate crews. In their usual "that's mine now" manner, the Nazis pressed the little tanks into service but away from the front lines as defensive vehicles for airfields, arms dumps and other high value targets of the Resistance. The FT also saw service with a number of other countries and was copied by some others with greater or lesser divergence from the original. This book is a thick tome from Kagero and is number 29 in their PhotoSniper 3D line. It is 180 pages perfect bound into a card cover and is written by Jacek Szafrański and Samir Karmieh. It is broken down into sections, as follows: Introduction A Brief history of the tank with photos of it in service with many of its operators. Walkaround A 65 page photographic description of both the FT-31 and FT-17 variants of the vehicle, all in colour. 3D Visualisation The balance of the book is devoted to a huge quantity of computer generated images of the tank, including cross-sections and internal equipment such as engines, guns and suspension. The photographs in the introductory section are mostly from interwar and WWII situations and are presented in high quality black and white with captions to match. The walkaround section is based upon preserved examples in museums and of course the photographs are crisp and in full colour. As with all museum vehicles, take care not to assume that everything is in the correct place, as sometimes museums get it wrong or go with what they have through expediency, however if using the photos as highly detailed supporting information you won't go far wrong. Conclusion A very useful book for anyone that has this model in their stash, whether it is the 1:35 Meng, 1:16 Takom kit, or one of the smaller scale renditions that have been around for some years. The level of detail exposed is second to none, and will assist with building and detailing any kit of this ground-breaking tin can. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Jeez I’ve missed most of it! I’ll go back through. looking good Ced Rob
  5. He must have found someplace other than my house to visit whilst I was away!
  6. Might be worth vacforming one or two prior to reducing the size of the buck? As possibly useable spares should reducing the buck it not turn out right? And/or cast a full size resin copy of the buck as a back up? Or p'raps that just my own cackhanded 'things never turn out right first time' methodology........ Experimentation is probably the only way forward. But as another twopennethworth from me - you might be able to reinforce thin sides with plastic strip to ensure a good bonding surface if the alternative is thicker sheet/blunt details. Anywhich way - it's gonna be fun watching
  7. OK 10 days (Oh No! Valuable time lost a;ready!) have past so it must be time for another clue (maybe if no one guesses before the end of the Group Build then I won't have time to even start!). So the second clue is that the first Frog kit has been discussed but no one has committed to building it and the second Frog kit is already the subject of a Build Thread. So there is the second clue. I think someone will get it straight away.
  8. Carpathia Without going all flowery and weird I think it's fair to say that having devoted quite a bit of time over the last few months to researching this ship and building this model the name 'Carpathia' has become rather evocative to me. I feel a connection and affection for this ship, her legacy, and her name that I did not have before. I'm sure that if I was ever in a crowded busy room and someone said 'Carpathia' my ears would pick up the word and I would feel compelled to join the conversation. For these reasons, despite the technical challenge involved and despite the rapidly dwindling remaining time, I wanted 'Carpathia' written on this model. There are no waterslide decals for the word 'Carpathia' (at least not that I know of ) so, as I did with 'AE2' I chose to use Letraset rub down decals which are a wholly satisfactory alternative and one that I think more modellers should consider. The first step is to clearly delineate the starting line and the horizontal base of the word. In this case I've marked out both using fine masking tape. Now stick on your Optivisor and cut out each letter one-by-one. Position each one very carefully using one of the sticky-picky-uppy-staticy-gripping thing shown in the photo below and rub each letter down onto position with a blunt, steel burnishing tool. I did not get any photos of the actual burnishing because I would have needed three hands for that. The process is a bit nerve wracking, because it's quite detailed work and if you have to scrape off an errant letter you will probably mar the paint. However, in this case each letter went on without too much hassle and as you can see below the result was quite satisfactory. The lettering is not laser straight but it's not too bad either and from a distance it looks... kind of OK... and from a sensible distance it looks really quite smart. I had to do both sides of course but neither caused any real worries and was happy with the outcome. It is a slow and painstaking process though. Technically speaking - to make a really accurate model I now had to write 'Carpathia' 'Liverpool' across the stern with 'Liverpool' in a nice upward convex curve. That was never going to happen! Now since I'm banging on about names I will tell you a short, true and mildly interesting story about the model's plaque. As you might remember, earlier in this thread I decided that I was not going to represent this ship at any specific point in time or place. The model was just going to be a representation of an interesting ship with an interesting history, and it would be left to the viewer to decide whether-or-not it was representing the ship on the night of the rescue. However, two things changed my mind - the first was the realisation that the wake represented the vessel travelling at a breakneck speed that she almost certainly only ever reached once in her entire life. The second was when I placed an order for the plaque at an engraving shop. While filling in the order I asked the proprietor what the date was and he replied '15th of April '. It was then that I realised it was 107 years to the day since the Titanic's demise. My mind was made up there and then - the plaque would read 'RMS Carpathia - 15 April 1912' . I remain happy with the decision. I think there's only one more post to go now - maybe two - rigging, flags and perhaps setting the ship in the base. I am determined to get this thread finished so I can get my attention back on the Avro 504 and Baby Bandsaw's Hogwart's express, so I am aiming to have this done sometime in the next seven days. Best Regards, Bandsaw Steve
  9. @malpaso & Romsey IPMS: Great show Will and good to chat, I was on a limited slot as I had to do a ferry job to pick up a King Air from Farnborough hence rushing off after an hour. Lovely balance of traders and clubs and as usual @Kallisti/Andrew Prentice did not disappoint with his studio scale Angel Interceptor, expect see that on the tables at Telford with suitable prizes attached. Had a movie moment while grabbing a coffee: Two older chaps having a chat about modelling and one mentions: " Have you seen that pr*tt on Britmodeller? Y'know the one that makes those kiddie models all glossed up on silly perspex stands?" Mate replies, " Yeah total ______( word that rhymes with anchor), if he came to something like this he'd learn something" Put a grin on my face that lasted til Monday night... Cheers Anil
  10. Do you need to even ask me? Consider my hat in the ring!
  11. Count me in as well, Steve, I've got a few old Revell kits tucked away which hopefully I'll do a better job on second time around. Great suggestion - all the best. Mike.
  12. They look right to me too. They are surely the biz! Terry
  13. Somebody shoot me down if I am wrong but my understanding is that they were standard US SEA - like the later SMB2 scheme - with the exception of the blue undersides. Not all had that, though. Martin
  14. I can help you with the T3 canopy & you can buy the pen nib section in resin from Whirlybird Models . PM me about the canopy if you're interested . John Green Nantwich , Cheshire
  15. HobbySearch listed it at around $60, which is about Rp. 800k in my currency. Before shipping. Meanwhile, someone in a trade forum I joined is selling Hasegawa's 1/48 F-14D for the same amount of cash, but with extra aftermarket VF-2 decals and Verlinden resin seats. I REALLY wanted to like this kit but the price-for-scale ratio is prohibiting me to go any further...
  16. Since I'm not going to manage the Afghan one I mentioned in Chat I think you're honour bound to do it now Andy
  17. Yer Strikemaster is the sports car version Way better'n a 3 And I think (although others may know more or different) bigger engined than a 5a
  18. I am far from an expert, but I believe that is a Mk.4 (blade & tail fold etc. [not to mention a proper RN colour!]), in which case not “under new management”, but “one careful owner”. Rivet-tastic, too [thinks of the Airfix 1/48 Mk.3 in his stash...] Oh God; no-one warned us he had a wingman...
  19. Back in the saddle now and getting on with 'stringing' the control cables on the Southern Cross - enough to lift this build thread up from Page 5! The small pegs I put on aren't all staying in place so my plan to glue each cable to the pegs one at a time fell through. I have managed to string them against most of the pegs, held in place with using bluetac to allow glue and even brush applied satincote to dry. Once dry, I'll trim the cables. It will all look OK from a distance. The two intrepid pilots looking on have now got their caps and gloves painted.
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