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  2. All Tamiya tapes are brilliant, I have 2mm, 3mm and 6mm, the first two are VERY good for all uses.
  3. Hello all, Here’s the new(ish) Armory kit. I got it at last years SMW but only just got round to building her. It’s a curious kit, felt a bit limited run on opening, it’s not the easiest kit to make - I found it quite challenging. And I was rushing it - I’ve got another kit I’m dying to start and I ungraciously raced through it (being written up for a magazine). That said, in the right hands this could be an absolute gem. Anyway, here she is - from HMS Eagle 1924. Thanks, Guy
  4. Found a few images on my phone I had taken of the instrument panel.
  5. The car would also look better if the lateral flaps were still a part of the bodywork and the louvres on the other flaps standing vertical and not slanted. As a sculptor I know about aesthetics and maybe my own version will become a bit idealized. But Harvey choose the realistic way and we should accept the facts. The Codognato painting was created in corporation with the designers and it shows red wheels and a dark red seat. Consequence is necessary regarding a reconstruction and it should not be the first priority if we like it or not. Hannes
  6. I agree - just go and get yourself some proper Type D roundels
  7. I purchased an aftermarket probe and boy was it a fiddle to make up but I think it’s really worth it. Also undercarriage and gear doors on. I’ve got all the weaponry built up but I think I like it unarmed. Canards and probes to go on then I think it’s about there...
  8. Please destroy my post #130. I've been having internet issues all afternoon and this was an early victim. I'm going back to bed....
  9. The main cockpit subassembly is complete. Next I'll be working on the wheel wells. I've also decided to build this all closed up, so door closed, airbrakes in and flaps raised as if it was parked. I originally planned to build a K2 all opened up, but I built XM718, my early Victor B.Mk.2, like that and I think a K2 looks busy enough already with all the pods and aerials they have. XM718 with all the options opened up. How many 1:72 Victors is it considered reasonable to have?
  10. THIS was EXACTLY what I was trying to say - said so much more easily and eloquently than I could ever fashion. Thank you my friend...
  11. We had a strange mix of modern and WW2-era technology. For instance, this mechanical monster was our torpedo direction computer: but ours was specially modified to interface with the Navy’s most modern torpedoes (we carried Mk48 heavyweight and Mk37 lightweight torps).
  12. Well this is ambitious... I like it! Rob
  13. Oh dear Oh dear Oh dear. This morning with joy in my heart, I started painting the Spitfire. I put on a bit of preshade, not too much as it was a new aircraft straight of the factory. Then I started to spray Vallejo Dark Earth , the new model air 323 that seems to me to work well as RAF Dark Earth. It went on poorly at first, but I was prepared for that, knowing that Vallejo clogs up in any airbrush that has not been ritually cleaned. After some cursing and impromptu cleaning, I got the paint to start to work and eventually spray with out blotching (too much). I use my wife's hairdryer to dry between coats. I even got over that it stripped away from where I had preshaded with Tamiya paint. I accepted that error and stripped it back where it peeled and painted. After about 2 hours for what should have taken 10 minutes , the top coat was acceptable. Foolishly, I thought I would have a go after lunch at spraying the underside silver. I decided to use Vallejo model air aluminium. It seemed to have two settings coming out the airbrush, thin or blodgy. By the end of even more cursing, it came out looking like it had been hammered from Middle Earth iron by dwarves, not really the effect that I wanted. I thought then to use 12000 ish sanding micromesh to knock down the effect a bit, but the Vallejo paint just started to strip! I took it all off and then sprayed it with Tamiya flat aluminium which is only marginally better. Lesson learnt, don't use aluminium and certainly don't use Vallejo Aluminium! I have used Tamiya before and it was just about OK, if you squinted, but the Vallejo was a disaster. It might become a black white undersides Spitfire, even that is more appealing that trying to spray silver again. The underside of the Spitfire is not looking too good with the poor Pavla resin bits and now a paint job that looks like it was put on with a house brush using Dulux! It may well be that everything is stripped back, the resin replaced with the original Airfix bits and I will regroup. And my fasteners have disappeared under all that painting and sanding. Or I might press on regardless.
  14. I also agree with this, it is another option but very coherent too. This build is a masterwork and leaving it totally unpainted, full metal, creates a timeless look, like a David or Rodin statue. On the other hand, Codger is too humble imho, as he is one of the best modelers in Brit, he showed his huge talent with his amazing Rolls Royce... Now the decision is in your mind and hands, Harvey... We trust in you, anyway! Cheers, Olivier
  15. @Wez Useful info on the seat the lozenge plate was something I’d not picked up on - looking at photos and the video it looks like there is a panel that shape on the older aircraft but not prominent - think I’ll file it down and scribe it on - interestingly the tailplane pieces look correct with evevators while looking at the tailplane I notice the rear NAV light is way too big so that will need some surgery as well! think I’ll leave the collectors for now
  16. The second and third issues were all green topsides. The first issue was a bit more colourful!
  17. YouTube offered this video as something I might be interested in about the rebirth of French aviation, ironically with the opening shots featuring the DeHavilland Vampire, there's quite a big section on the Vampire in the vid too. There's lots of weird and wonderful types as well as more familiar things like the Flamant, Noratlas, Ouragan, Stampe SV.4 and I think a SIPA S.10 as well as the aforementioned Vampires and a display sequence featuring F-80's, interesting stuff!
  18. Accurate Armour's 432-30 conversion kits have a sheet of decals, with Berlin Brigade signs - they might sell you a sheet seperately if you ask.
  19. JackG

    Rib tape decals

    Are you looking at the coloured kind for the German pattern 'lozenges', or just basic fabric stitching? Hannants has both: https://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php?adv=1&product_category_id=&product_division_id=&manufacturer_id=&product_type_id=&code=&scale_id=955&keyword_search=rib+tape&setPerPage=25&sort=0&search_direction=0&restore_search=&save_search_active=yes&save_search_name=&save_search= regards, Jack
  20. The finest hands and minds on the forum are having a very meaningful and well thought out discussion. Not being in those categories, I reserve the right to stubbornly maintain my position of no paint at all. I have a deep love of beautiful mechanical objects in their natural material appearance. To me this whole model's character is defined by that. Mr H has wrought a work of art. It has that indefinable hand-built appearance that gives it such character. Yes- brass spokes are not prototypical - but the beauty they add is worth their salvation in my view. I feel paint would take this out of the 'art museum display' category (and elevates it beyond what we mostly do here) and make it a very accurate replica of an automobile - what we generally strive for. Enough of my babble - it will be whatever its creator wants it to be and rightly so! It is a stunning achievement as is and I adore it as such. I also love the well-presented opinions expressed here.
  21. The weather here today is terrible. That's a good thing, as I was due to help lay a great big shed base at a mates place. Pouring rain means shed time! First up, check out the fuselage for anything that might get in the way of getting the transfers to lay properly. All seems fine. Re-mask the demarcation line and start again with the cammo. One coat of aquacolour dark earth as an undercoat followed by an hour or so drying. Aquacolour dark green then added followed an hour later by a re-coat of the dark earth bits. Masking removed, and things look fine. Add a bit of wear and tear to the wings to get in front on that job... ... and while the wings are drying, add a few fuselage codes. Gulp. They went on perfectly. I nearly passed out doing this as I forgot to breathe, I was concentration so hard. And to finish todays efforts, yet another propped up picture on its base. The exhaust staining needs dialing in a bit more and it's not as heavy as the picture suggests. I'll find out tomorrow if the transfer/decals have behaved themselves, but they look like they are happy where they are now. That noise you just heard was a huge sigh of relief coming from me! More tomorrow. Tony.
  22. A lovely craft which you have made a beautiful job of recreating Kev
  23. Yes, I agree with Dan too. After the amazing job you did for this build, any casting error, such red color on wheels would not be a good idea imho (you could of course change it later). But maybe we are too "classic"...
  24. For me, no no comparison possible! They must be black! Red wheels will look as a toy...
  25. Lovely looking Panther, great work ! Wulfman
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