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  2. Humbrol also do a chrome silver aerosol which I have seen looking shiny on someone else's model so bought a can for myself but haven't used it yet. https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/191-chrome-silver-metallic-150ml-acrylic-spray-paint.html
  3. I think you have a point there - in fact I'm going to try exactly that for black on a night fighter and on bombers. It stands to reason that the same technique would work for dark green and grey. Basically it's just a matter of choosing the background to suit the amount of tone variation you want. It is a very flexible technique - it is still entirely possible to have very string shading around panel lines if that's the desired approach.
  4. Splendid work, your perseverance has paid off. gazza l
  5. Thanks Smithy for pics and returning to theme of thread. Have you any tips for making the Revell Fury? It looks grand so far. I must admit to laziness into staying with Modeldecal's 1 squadron markings. Matchbox produced some questionable kits, but excelled themselves now and again and this was such a winner. If you remember which automotive chrome paint you used, do let us know because you have solved the problem of getting two distinctive finishes.
  6. Great job on the Shackleton, like your setup.
  7. Good morning chaps Further work on the set windshield/dashboard. As you've probably. noticed, Heller provides a one piece cast crystal part for the windshield and the dash Not so easy to paint and extra-detail, especially because there's a sharp angle between windshield and dash, making it difficult to put the paintbrush, but with good magnifier glasses and a ton of patience, it can be done ! First, I've painted with Tan enamel (Humbrol mat 62) the wooden frame of the windshield, 2 layers Second, after having put masking tape around the wipers, exterior side, I've painted them with Molotow Chrome Third, after having put masking tape around the rubber part of the wipers, interior side, I've painted them Matt black Fourth, I've put the first layer of ivory color on the dash (I got this color mixing 3 drops of Humbrol enamel yellow 7 with 10 drops Humbrol enamel white 22).12 hours are needed to let out dry before applying the second layer Furthermore, I'll paint the dash buttons, the radio, and , when I've received the decals I've ordered on the Internet, I'll put the gauge decals on the dash, and finally the rear-view mirror Meanwhile, some photos: (With the magnifying of the photos, the paint reveals all its defects, but, with the naked eye, it's rather correct...of course, I've to improve my skill with brush painting !) Stay tuned and thanks fo watching
  8. Pictures that show the bluish tint https://www.macksaviation.com/lightning.php?show=92sqn
  9. Beautiful build, great finish and a fantastic scheme on a lovely plane
  10. … or worse, it pulls the paint off when you try to remove it … Cheers, Alan.
  11. Hi, Bought this ages ago, started it, fought with it, gave up, started again, fought again and now am calling it done!! Had some real fitting issues, and was gutted to find out i had to paint the propeller ends myself( the airfix one has decals!!) It did however prompt me to build a little diarame/backscene thing! Finished as No.8 Squadrons WL756 as seen by me at the 1988 RAF Chivenor Airshow Revell 1.72 Shackleton AEW2 WL756-8 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Revell 1.72 Shackleton AEW2 WL756-6 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Revell 1.72 Shackleton AEW2 WL756-3 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Revell 1.72 Shackleton AEW2 WL756 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Revell 1.72 Shackleton AEW2 WL756-5 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Revell 1.72 Shackleton AEW2 WL756-1 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Revell 1.72 Shackleton AEW2 WL756-6 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Thanks for looking Jon
  12. To be clear the Brabazon was done over a decade ago, and required attention to sand out the grain marks from the wooden master - a job I still need to complete!
  13. Following Corsairfoxuncles suggestion I am going to paint the SR177 in a copy of 92 squadrons Lightning colours when based at Gutersloh in the mid 70s. Can anyone tell me the paint codes. I would match it by eye but the photos I have seen vary so much from a light bronze green to a dark green with a bluish tint. Colour film wasnt brilliant in those days unless it was transparencies stored at low temperature and even then it depended if it was Kodachrome, Agfacolour or fujicolor as to what shades you got. I am assuming unless information to the contrary its just standard RAF Dark Green Tamiya XF-81 or Vallejo 71.324 for the topsides and for the undersides Vallejo Dark Silver 71.053 and the nearest Tamiya coour I can find XF-56 Metallic Grey. https://www.thunder-and-lightnings.co.uk/lightning/profiles.php
  14. Hi, I picked up a very damaged 1:72 Draken a little while back, and have had enough of it now so am calling it done!!!( have just started a Hasegawa one, a tad better ) The revell model is a long way from accurate, but this one had its nose was broken, no pitot tube, no wing numbers, no front wheel, no tanks and several other cosmetic bits...... I gave it a Model-master pitot tube, bit of paint, sprayed some big numbers onto the wings, rebuilt the nose and back end, tried to repair the canopy, found a vaguely acceptable nose wheel etc etc!! Its not brilliant, i know, but has been a bit of fun to do while building other proper kits! Revell 1:72 Saab J-35OE 14 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Revell 1:72 Saab J-35OE 14 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Revell 1:72 Saab J-35OE 14 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Revell 1:72 Saab J-35OE 14 by Jonathan Francis, on Flickr Thanks for looking Jon
  15. That's very cool, love it and great choice of scheme
  16. The unmistakeable drone of turboprops had me checking ADS-B and sure enough, C-130H 91-1231 was flying overhead at 26,000ft.
  17. Hi all, I've checked a bit further and the sets are different. sorry for any trouble, Cheers, Rodders.
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