Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. I present the Hasegawa Embraer 170 in the well-known “Krakow and Malopolska invites” livery carried by SP-LDC between 2009 and 2012. The tail features Leonardo da Vinci’s painting “Lady with an Ermine” which is one of Poland’s national treasures. Although the kit has been around for many years this is the first time I’ve built it. It was seriously overpriced on UK release but several years ago I managed to get a couple at a sensible price via HobbyLink Japan and they’ve been in my stash ever since. It seems that currently the kit is only available in Japan and various Japanese sellers have it listed on eBay at prices ranging from £26.52 to an utterly ridiculous £108.01. The kit fits well and the scribed detail is generally good. However some areas are basic, notably the undercarriage. There is a PE set available from Extra Tech but I’ve never really liked PE and my eyesight is no longer up to assembling nine microscopic parts to make one undercarriage door for a small aircraft like the Embraer 170 so I contented myself with thinning the kit doors and adding a little detail. I did use the PE to improve the undercarriage bays and also to add pitots. Apologies for a bit of a rant but it’s beyond me why most PE makers can produce scale sized hinges for undercarriage doors but then give you pitots resembling part of the radar array from a WW2 Luftwaffe nightfighter. The Extra Tech set was no different and much fiddling and cursing was needed to get things looking reasonably presentable. Paint is Halfords Appliance White and Racking Grey with Tamiya and Revell metallics. I was going to use a set of Nazca decals which I’d bought at the same time as the kit but I discovered that some of the lettering was over-scale to the point that you couldn’t make an accurate model with it. Fortunately BOA have covered the same scheme so the tail decal is Nazca and everything else is BOA. Detail decals are from the kit sheet and windows are by Authentic Airliners. Thanks for looking and as always constructive criticism is welcome. Dave G http://IMG_3715 (1) by David Griffiths, on Flickr http://IMG_3728 aff by David Griffiths, on Flickr http://IMG_3719 (1) by David Griffiths, on Flickr http://IMG_3724 (1) by David Griffiths, on Flickr
  3. Reminds me a little of the 're-tasked' Stealth Fighter used in The Philadelphia Experiment 2.
  4. A quick update... So I've managed to paint and assemble the suspension components, interior and underside. Suspension - this all pretty much went together without issue, the only small snag I had was fitting the lower arms piece as it has multiple pieces to insert, doing it with wet glue and painted parts was nerve wracking - the shocks were a bit of a pain to line up, but once in it all fitted well. The underside scratch plate - I'm not overly happy with the result on this so far but I may give it another coat and a lot of weathering, I'm planning to make the car look in a used state, post rally so this will be a prime weathering target. The running gear I might give a few washes. etc. to - all my metallic paints seem to have come out a similar colour, again good targets for weathering, etc. Interior - note in the pictures the seats are currently just placed down and not attached, I have some spare PE seat buckles from a previous rally car build and I'm going to attempt to build up the seat harnesses rather than put the decals on the seats. The fire extinguishers I painted in some different red (Mr Hobby Aqueous Shine Red) after a primary coat of white, the interior of this thing is going to be a festival of reds and blacks! The spare wheel, etc. panel I hand painted and used some old red and brown washes I had (it's probably 30 years old but still seems good). I was a little unsure of the gold colour for the wheel rim (Tamiya 'Titan Gold') which was the only gold I had to hand, it seems a little more on the silver end of the spectrum than a typical yellowish gold colour, with a brown wash it's come out OK (though no one will ever see it once the model is finished! I'm not overly sure about the real colour for the wheels, they are supposed to be gold but can look more of a dull copper colour in certain photos. Bodywork is the next thing on the agenda, I think I've pretty much finished the construction of the lower tub - the door cards, dashboard, etc. appear to all neatly fit on locator tabs in the upper shell. The only issue I can foresee is attaching the two halves together, the instructions tell you to 'carefully' pull out the sides of the shell when fitting it over. I managed to get the lower chassis inside when dry fitting before - but that was without the extra arches added or any of the interior pieces / rear sub-frame etc. It will be mighty annoying if I snap it at the last construction phase! I've used some Citadel 'liquid green stuff' filler - never used it before, hopefully it will come out well - it seemed to do a decent enough job when wiped off quickly as on the filled wing mirror hole and rear spoiler gap, though it's very thick (I think my bottle must not be air-tight - even compared to videos online mine seems thick, thicker even than my 10 year old Revell paint which I can stand a cocktail stick upright in). I'm not sure how well it's going to sand but figured even if it all rubs off, at least the green will remind me I need to give the areas attention, unlike my other fillers which are white and no doubt I'd leave an ugly blob I wouldn't find till priming. Don't worry I'm not going for a very bad Alitalia paint scheme even though it looks like it at present with the brushed on filler on the white body, it's just where I brushed on some of the watered down filler.
  5. Another amazing Me-109 added to your collection, once again in very unusual, faithfully reproduced scheme and markings Beautiful modelling work, as always !!!!
  6. 17 cockpit parts you say Pete, so when do you start attaching the PE!?? I agree with all the fiddly bits and think most of it is not exactly necessary in this scale. It’s probably the reason why I like 1/72 as you can get away with leaving out a fair bit if you want to move things along. I’m afraid I’ve got not idea what your fuselage is resting on, could be some car engine component, but I’m honestly guessing. Oh, that’s right. I managed to take a look at the Airfix instructions for this kit and they mention 3g of nose weight. They also show a ‘hand’ image where they point to the main undercarriage support struts, however nowhere is their a key to say that this hand means ‘make it yourself’? Cheers.. Dave
  7. Oh, I lick all the kits I review. You never know when one might taste of strawberries or peppermint!
  8. Time for an update! Wings painted green and underside linen, brush painted. Decided the underside of the wings need something to add interest o looked for a way to add tapes without masking, found a white fine marker and drew them on! Obviously a bit stark so oversprayed lightly with white and added a burnt sienna oil wash, happy with the result. In the process of trying to get the dihedral right and the underside wing struts I managed to break the wing off! Some wire pins should sort it out. More soon!
  9. Just a reminder on these 2 as we are seeing quite a lot of large pictures upto 3500 pixels in one case, Aslo please avoid quoting large amounts of pictures in a thread. Thx Julien
  10. Thanks Brian ! I did a first check of the fit and I can see one main problem area: the lower fuselage insert. This may be slightly longer than the recess it's supposed to fit in and bulges outward. I'll have to check how the shapes have to be in this area, I guess with the part sitting flat against the fuselage.. Of course gluing such a long and thin fuselage together can always be tricky but hopefully I'll manage it One thing I didn't mention is that there's quite a bit of flash on several parts. In some parts this is also quite thick, not ideal but should be manageable Thanks Pete ! I considered backdating the kit to the prototype but the changes were too many for what I was hoping to be a quick build. I am of course quite envious of your experience with the real aircraft ! I only managed to visit the interior of some of the preserved aircraft, first was the the one at Le Bourget Museum, followed by the one at New York and then the one in Duxford. I later visited the interior of the Tu-144 in Sinsheim and duly acquired the Revell rebox of the ICM kit... at some point I'll build this one too and place it beside the Concorde, should make for an impressive pair. Must say that I'd quite like ICM to make a Concorde to the level of their TU-144...
  11. Well, that came out rather well Martian! and in just a blink of the eye, (or so it seems to me, trapped in the ever shrinking space/time continuum bubble that surrounds me these days). Bravo, wonderful result old sausage...nice to see the old bus wearing esoteric apparel for a change.
  12. You might want to decrease the size of your pics down from 1600 pixels as not everyone has a large screen, or maybe accessing on a mobile device. We recommend 1280 at best. Julien
  13. More or less. Batch to batch things shouldn't change. We will be consistent in how we manufacture until some factor causes a change. E.g. if a particular commercially available blue pigment becomes unavailable and we need to recreate the formula to use another which requires different balancing with red or green. I think (and this comes from some of the bizarre ideas that come up on the subject of variance one might see in real paint) that many not directly involved in manufacture have a romantic idea of a guy with a cigarette in his mouth making paint subjectively adding all sorts of pigments like a witch adding frogs legs and dragon scales to a cauldron. The reality is much less fun (but also eliminates most of what casual observers imagine the variance possibilities are). Most real paints use a clear-ish binder, colourless pigment extenders to some degree, white to add opacity in most cases and then 2 or 3 specific tinting pigments to arrive at the final colour. Maybe a tweak with a very small measure of something else for balance. In summary, unless there's a very strong reason to revise the formulation, each batch of the same paint will feature exactly the same type of pigments. The only variance would be measuring margin of error on those specific ones. As an example of what I meant above, I think all of our paints are safe to use with white spirit, turpentine, naptha (which we recommend for various good reasons) and cellulose thinners, but our RAL2005 day-glow orange has a pigment unique to it that curdles for want of a more illustrative description if exposed to cellulose thinner. If a particular batch of paint contained a new pigment not in other batches of the same colour, something drastic has happened. It would be more difficult to achieve that than to just do it properly. Indeed modern paints are generally made on computerised paint mixers such that once we are happy that the dried sample hits the CIELAB target values, the history of how much of each pigment has been metered in to that can is saved and next time a batch is produced the computer simply meters out exactly the same again (to within 1/192 of a fl.oz, for example). Hope this clarifies. I realise there's a lot in there but I wanted to offer a more full explanation of my earlier comment
  14. Finally another update, yellow paint on (Mr Hobby Color H329) and a Xtreme Metals Pale Burnt Metal around the exhaust area.
  15. Thanks for the heads up. I'll certainly be up for one of these. Never had a "proper" Raleigh Chopper myself, but did get an Italian made Chopper copy back in the late 70s. Used to strap my short wave/AM/MW/Police band radio to the back of the seat with the aerial up and pretend I was in CHiPs. Happy days! Steve
  16. Thanks Robert, I was stuck in other things and had almost forgotten... my bad ! I promise to do better at following things if the GB goes through the voting process.. That's great Allan ! Added you to the list, hope the GB goes ahead as I'm very curious to see the many wingy things Welcome to the list Paul ! There are indeed plenty of sibjects for such a GB, I hope to see the most diverse choices from modellers Yes, one more name needed ! We need just one more volunteer, who's up for this ???
  17. Bulges started with the G-4. My dad was wrong-thinking too, already drilled the holes through the upperwings for the bulge parts, then he had to fill them again.
  18. Nice kit! I have built a couple and also the earlier CL-215 that Heller did. Common sprues between the two with the white sprue for parts to make the 415. The decal choice was also done by Leading Edge Models which I plan to do sometime. Leave the rivets though,,, they are prominent on the real thing too!
  19. The helicopter will be from San Theodoros, 'Tintin and the Picaros'...
  20. Great progress John, she’s all coming together rather well and it’s all looking great. Now keeping clear parts super clear is best done with the ‘dipping in a clear solution’ method. There are many products out there however not all are available in every country so it’s a bit hard to recommend something that might not be on sale where you live. Might be best to do some YouTube-ing to see what others have done as I’m sure you’ll get more out of that then reading my text! Cheers.. Dave
  21. Lovely work as always John. Really enjoying watching this build
  22. Very nice, Mark. I’m rather keen on these sleek machines Martin
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...