All Activity

The blue Sea Fury is done just great. Then you gave a bonus of the beautifully built and finished Spitfire and the loaded Fury. All are really nicely done. Thanks for sharing.

Whoops posted this twice - Apologies . Not sure how to get rid of it....!

Beautiful SM79 Sparviero! Saluti Giampiero

Has anyone tried combining this product with Silly Putty?. I accidentally let a piece of the black colored masking putty come into contact with a piece and couldn't get them apart, so I kneaded them together. The result was a grey putty that seems to have better adhesion to the surface of painted plastic. My only complaint about the regular black colored putty is that it doesn't stick very well to a surface. I haven't done much more with the combined putty yet, but I'm inclined to experiment further with it.

Is this any help

Any recommendations folks for model shops and has anyone been to the army museum? Travelling in the middle of May... Cheers

Painting just about finished. Structurally, all that is left the wheel doors, tanks, 2 pitot tubes and 2 aerials on the main canopy. Time to start adding decs beginning with those that go on the wheels, doors and tanks. Pete

Continuing the "Arctic Red" theme, I have today got the red areas painted. These are, as you can see, the rear fuselage and fin/rudder plus the tailplanes. The latter have caused a little discussion as the decal instruction sheet appears to indicate natural metal overall with red tips. However, the standard for the delivery flights, for which this paint was applied, was overall red with the Leading Edge (LE) as natural metal. There are only two known images of this machine in these colours and neither is conclusive, sadly. So, for variety I have gone with the latter. The red is, of course, Insignia Red, using Colourcoats in this case. You can see that I have also decided to paint the nose band. For htisthe "yellow" has gone on, using Humbrol 46 Orange, which seems to match the decal colour and known images of machines from this unit. I will possible use red decal lining for the red central line on the bands. I havealso painted the puttied seals around the quarterlights. Back on Monday to get the anti-glare on. Martin

Fellow Modelers, The 1966 American sci-fi adventure film Fantastic Voyage tells the story of a submarine crew who is shrunk to microscopic size and ventures into the body of an injured scientist to repair damage to his brain. The operation must be done in one-hour, as the shrinking process only last that long before an object returns to its original size. The main action of the movie deals with the submarine crew overcoming the challenges of reaching the brain, performing the experimental surgery and being able to leave the body before being destroyed by the body’s natural defenses. Fantastic Voyage is an outstanding movie that is entertaining and impressive even when viewed today. It received five nominations at the 39th Academy Awards mostly in technical departments, winning for Best Visual Effects and Best Art Direction in Color. One of the film’s most enduring stars is the Proteus submarine (a.k.a. U-91035), described as an experimental U.S. Navy vessel designed to research the spawning habits of deep sea marine life. This elegant and believable vehicle was designed by Harper Goff, who also designed the Nautilus submarine for the 1954 Disney movie 20,000 Leagues under the Sea. For decades many modelers (including myself) have been wishing for an accurate and detailed plastic model kit of the Proteus submarine to be produced. Those wishes were granted in 2016 when Moebius Models released their big 1/32 scale (16” length X 9” width) kit. After sitting on a closet shelf for eight years I have decided it is time to build mine. Welcome to my Progress Build of the Moebius Models Proteus submarine… Figures 001 through 004: Here are photos of the box art and of a manufacturer build-up from the instruction booklet. As you can see in the photos the kit comes with a complete interior. Figure 005: Here is the kit decal sheet. Two sets were included with my kit instead of one and I am very grateful for the bonus! Figure 006: The only aftermarket item I purchased for this kit is the ParaGrafix photo-etched set. That company makes an excellent product and everything I use should enhance the build. According to modeling experts on the internet, this kit has multiple minor inaccuracies (inside and out) but I am fine with not correcting many of those inaccuracies. My main goal is to make the build neat and attractive, like it comes across in the movie. Figure 007: As always, the first step was cutting, sanding, test fitting and cleaning up each part. This is never a fun process, but it always gets me familiar with the model’s fit up and possible issues down the road. Figure 008: This photo shows all of the kit parts, except for the interior floor tub and upper/lower hull halves. No modifications have been made yet. Figure 009: The kit supplied interior is really detailed but once it is sealed up inside the hull halves about 75% of it will not be seen. However, I want the best of both worlds-a completely viewable interior and a completely assembled exterior. To get this I decided to build the interior and exterior as two separate models, and when finished they will sit side-by-side in a display case arranged very much like seen in this photo. Therefore, this Progress Build will be divided into two sections consisting of PART 1-Interior and PART 2-Exterior. Figures 010 through 012 (PART 1-INTERIOR): Since all areas of the interior floor tub, walls and furniture will be visible, extra sanding was required to remove rough spots, injection pin marks, molding flaws and raised copyright wording that would be hidden in a standard build. These photos show the interior floor tub after the cleaning was complete. Figure 013: The pilot’s seat support part was modified by removing the plastic foot rests to be replaced with photo-etched foot rests later. Figures 014-015: These before and after photos show the removal of a control box and conduit piping from one of the walls. They were removed to make painting the parts easier and will be replaced later. Figure 016: The conduit piping from this wall has been sanded away as well, but holes have been drilled to mark their original location. Figure 017: A thin piece of Evergreen styrene was used to fill in the open backside of the wireless radio. Figures 018-019: The chart case front part used dimpling to represent open holes. It did not look very convincing so I very carefully opened them by drilling. This modification made a tremendous improvement in how the part looks. Figure 020: The chart case side part details were sanded away and replaced by a photo-etched part. The ParaGrafix photo-etched control panel parts were only used where the kit’s raised details were poorly molded. Figure 021: The assembled chart case is shown. Figure 022: The assembled chart table is shown with one photo-etched piece added. Figure 023: The laboratory sink base was improved by adding photo-etched doors and a scratch-built faucet. Tiny Evergreen styrene hot and cold water valves will be added later. In the movie there was actually two sink basins but I was content to live with one. Figures 024-025: The laboratory cabinet was the next part to be modified. On the front side, photo-etched doors were added and the molded-on dispenser knobs were cut off and holes drilled in their place. Small pieces of Evergreen round styrene will be added later where the molded-on knobs were. On the backside, various Evergreen pieces of thin sheet and 1/4” blocks were used to fill on the hollow areas and improve the overall appearance. Figures 026-027: The laboratory cabinet is shown being test fitted to the interior floor tub. Until next time… Phillip1

Love it! You made my day, thank you! Reminds me of this exchange What do you do with an elephant with three ba**s? Walk it and pitch to the rhino!

Any recommendations folks for model shops and has anyone been to the army museum? Travelling in the middle of May... Cheers

Is the aircraft Chadwick 5 and the aircraft from 1919 the Avro 534? Saluti Giampiero

I wonder if they were competing with Eduard for those AMK molds. Eduard previously released Delfin with AMK sprues under Eduard label... Will the next volume of Eduard Info contain more journalist investigations?

As far as I know the French Alpha jets were pure trainers, whilst the German ones were the armed ones.

Make a search on britmodeller. Somewhere there is a drawing of the areas where you should fill panel lines /Finn

That would be nice, especially if they also included resin parts for modern Kfir variant, like KP appearently plans to do for Delfin A, R and RS... that is unless Mr. Muzikant gets jailed for stealing Turbolet from Eduard.🤣 Price on those Delfins seems pretty good also, 330Kc is about 13 Euro!

Oh, the Frog Shackleton, an essay in rivets. I have a long held belief, that if you wish to sand off all the rivets, then you must do it at one sitting. Otherwise, they will grow back overnight! That said, it was, in it's day a great kit. Down her in South Africa, the modeller were possessed with having one in their collection. Sadly, many never achieved it! In reflection, I'm surprised that Airfix never continued with their MR2 into an MR 3. That is another story! I'm liking the way you are tackling the build. Colin

G'day Beefy, this hasn't taken you long, and it looks quite a potent vessel. I did a whiffed 16-gun Belfast a couple of years ago with a greenish antifouling lower hull for a bit of variety in the display cabinet. I can post a picture of it here if you wish so you can see what the colour scheme will look like. But obviously no need if you've already tried it. Regards, Jeff.

You seem to have that all thoroughly worked out Tomas, and planning ahead is always wise policy!

Nice to see how this goes together. The main area I was interested in was the multipiece cowling and I'm glad to see there's no major issues with it. Good call on the wheel bay interior color. Color photos do not show any interior green in there, especially on the gear bay doors. Another callout that appears to be incorrect (at least for camouflaged aircraft) is natural steel for the landing gear legs. On OD/NG aircraft they were neutral gray, like on camouflaged B-17s. I'm not sure if this changed once camouflage was dropped in production. There's a very good chance they stopped painting gear legs when they stopped painting the exterior of the aircraft. In the case of B-26B-55s, camo was deleted in the factory starting with serial number 42-96219. All aircraft with a serial lower than that that are seen without camo in photographs would've been delivered in OD/NG but then stripped per a USAAF directive. So even if a plane dropped its camo, it could've still had painted gear legs. Not every group closely followed that directive though, which led to the numerous interesting camo schemes seen on B-26s.

Well... that is in general good news. AMK seems not in business anymore unfortunately. Hope KP will produce good quality sprues form those great quality molds. I wonder if anybody bought 1/72 Kfir molds from AMK?

Thanks to Martin at air-craft.net my airbrush spares have arrived and I’ve “tested” the new parts by giving the QuickBoost exhausts a coat of Mr Surfacer 1500 black primer, followed by a coat of Xtreme Metal AK480 dark aluminium… …then a light coat of Xtreme Metal AK 484 burnt metal… …AK light rust was used to give a rusty appearance… …followed by a mix of MrWeathering Color multi black and white dust. Once the additional aftermarket arrives I’ll continue with the nacelles. until next time as always, any suggestions, criticisms or comments will be gratefully received. rgds John(shortCummins)

Ugly it is! Tat moment of the engine buried so far back ! However, it looks like an very interesting project. Colin

G'day, and thank you for your comments, guys. I've completed the shafts on DKM Karlsruhe. I re-inforced the joins of the struts with 5 minute Araldyte epoxy glue. As you can see, the rudder is done too, and I'll probably fit her next. I think the jobs after that will be to drill the scuttles in the hull, make and attach the anchors then start painting the hull. As some of you mentioned, the hull is very smooth now. Those black lines you see are due to news-print. When I glued in the strakes I wiped excess glue off with newspaper, leaving black ink marks. That is why the hull looked so 'dirty' before I commenced the fill/sanding cycles. No matter, they'll paint over later. I'll also make my own screws but I can do that job later too. So thank you for your interest, comments and responses. Stay safe and keep on modeling. Regards to all, Jeff.

Incredible amount of time & work on this! Surely a show winner if it was ever entered into one! Glad I stumbled into the vehicles WIP section now! Martin