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  2. Re line alert!! I have highlighted the panel line where it's easiest to see the problem: The new Echo model, the shape in this area is concave in the vertical direction with a smooth transition upwards, and as such looks like it should (without having the kit to put a template to it): Whereas the short nose fuselage shape (same for all models released so far) is mostly convex in this area with a rather abrupt and disjointed, kinked transition upwards. Moving along the fuselage aft, the kink between the engine "shoulders" and the spine should have been smoothed out by the time you arrive at this panel line, but it is still very much there. Because the shape is still convex instead of concave, there is too much "meat" on the fuselage above/around the engines. Hope this helps... Cheers, J
  3. Ant79

    Which paint colour

    Ive got the italeri 1/72 gulf war tornado and just want to no which humbrol paint colour i need (the outside colour)
  4. I would say that my model purchases are influenced in these ways: 1. Subject (particularly if no one else is going to produce one). 2. Price (just how cheaply can I buy it?). 3. Manufacturer (there's a few makers I wouldn't touch with the proverbial barge-pole, eg. Lindberg). 4. Rarity (sometimes plays a role). Chris.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Found this on Google but haven't checked it out personally. If it's genuine , then it's a real bargain. https://www.therange.co.uk/arts-and-crafts/art-supplies/painting/paint-accessories/mediums/winsor-and-newton-250ml-galeria-retarder-fluid/#402433
  7. I couldn't find a Murphy color chart, but found on the Net a sample book from them called "Murphy Vehicle System", perhaps associated with cars, but there is a burgundy red that interests me there, as possible for the WAE color of the time: https://content.invisioncic.com/r277599/monthly_2019_01/258974239_DSC00827(Large).thumb.JPG.9816f584d45cf1d734d62b00664fb8f5.JPG
  8. Nice little Wessex, hope my 1/72 one turns out as well. It is tiny in 1/144 though. One little pedantic thing with your gallery post, the naval air station at Nowra is HMAS Albatross. AW
  9. Can you double check? I’ve seen all only on the port side.I’m pretty sure they have the same length blades.
  10. If doing the WAE livery, it may be considered that there are contemporary accounts of the F.32 company planes depicted as "maroon and silver". That is, WAE's color may have not been a vivid or medium red, but more of a deeper red, as in this 1940 ticket book: This ad describes it as "maroon": https://www.picclickimg.com/d/w1600/pict/303551568913_/1930-Aviation-Aircraft-Plane-Pilot-Fokker-F32-Murphy.jpg
  11. salivating sequentially sub seaman
  12. Smithy1961

    Stowage on tanks

    Veering slightly off topic, how was foliage attached around the vehicles? Secondly, any pointers to obtaining the right kind off stuff to replicate these branches etc? Bonsai trees are expensive, if you didn't already know that!
  13. I would say that 249 Sqn codes on the darker blue schemes were light blue,...... similar to Azure Blue,... here is a recent post I did; And another,.....I built T-M years ago and would say that these codes were probably light blue too; Cheers Tony
  14. Hi Jon, I love the fiddle, particularly. Although I'm a teacher by trade (default?), every school holiday I work on a local farm. We have an identical fiddle, although it's in unrestored condition and the leather wang has long gone (replaced with some kind of cord) and I think the hessian is actually from an old potato sack, or similar - we still use it to broadcast small areas of grass seed every now and again! It's great to see yours in such great condition - you've done a lovely job on it.
  15. Crikey! It would take me 35 years to come up with anything half as good and detailed as this. So much to wonder at ! Well done. Cheers Gaz
  16. Ant79

    Model brands

    That ocean grey looks green is that right
  17. Indeed it is one of my cherished projects. The high price and low availability of the 1/72 Broplan vac kit had made it inaccessible to me, though. Surely next week it will be released in injected form and sold for 20 dollars
  18. tonyot

    Lancaster WS-J

    I built this Lanc a while ago,.... have a look at my post,.... there is some discussion about the aircraft with reference pics....it might help?
  19. simply seems severely silly
  20. Thanks all! Tony, that's awesome, looks like the old bagged kit box art - how did you do that one? Cheers again, BC
  21. Very cat! Find a space that, if occupied, will cause maximum inconvenience - and take it over! My ginger bloke was a master at it!
  22. Thank you everyone for your kind words - this indeed was a fun little build and did re-kindle some of those feelings from a more simple modelling time - it was great to not have to sweat over too many details. These old Airfix kits actually aren't too bad to build. The only real fit issue I had with this one was the lower wing piece, which needed a bit of filling and sanding to get into place. The struts were a tad fiddly too, and the horizontal stabiliser was split in the middle, but overall not too bad. I have been eyeing off their old DH4 from the early 60s as a future build. It actually scales reasonably accurately for an old kit. Cheers again! BC
  23. You’re using train parts? Sacrilegious! Train foamers everywhere will pull the plane’s airworthiness certificate. Ever see any Boeing 80s around? Thought of one for a future build.
  24. I buy all GWH kits and swore I wasn’t going to buy this one as the stash is too big and I’m trying to downsize. Bugger-all, I’m sold on this one too!
  25. A bit of work on the inst. pan., adding the engine levers console: And before I forget, and again thanks to @Brandy, correction of the aft prop blades pitch. Blades separated from the hub: Locations drilled and metal-pinned: Prop on the right already corrected: Both props corrected. Have to work once set on refining the blades a bit, as of course the variation of pitch throughout the blade has to be re-contoured too. So I am understood: the blade should have wash-out, i.e. less pitch towards to tip, but due to the reposition now it has wash-in, i.e. more pitch on the tip than the section closer to the hub, thus some sanding is due. It won't truly correct the shape, but it will help, thanks to the thickness of the actual part, to make the reposition virtually imperceptible:
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