Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Thanks Adrain, I'll do my best Like most builds, the cockpit tends to take priority in most builds as most want the fuselage closed up and this was no exception. I started off with the simple stuff... ...my test pilot in his white overalls. The first two protoypes were fitted with Martin Baker Mk1 Ejection seats and as far as I can tell were predominantly black in colour. I'm assuming that the third prototype was fitted with a standard seat and would have most probably be painted interior green. The kit i/p was just a flat surface. With no photographs of the cockpit available to me at the time, I went with artistic license and knocked up an i/p by using 1/72 Mike Grant cockpit decals. While other bits are drying and such like, I took a look at the wing(s). As a previous pic showed, the wings were a little warped and needed some attention. I tried the hot water technique but it didn't seem to work for me, not sure why, so plan B...metal rod. The rod needed to be thin enough to fit between wings and stiff enough to overcome the 'warpage'. This was done on one wing, worked well and offered up to the fuselage for musing. Out with the vernier and the wing chord was longer that the fuselage wing chord. Also of not was that the wing cross-section wasn't quite right, there was a difference in thickness of 1.5mm. Not quite sure how to overcome this but I have two ideas; spaces between the wings or run a lip around the fuselage wing join that will fit inside the the 'correct' wing profile. The second option has the most appeal as it would give better bonding. More anon. Stuart
  3. IanHx

    Rugby World Cup 2019

    Well it probably won't be Georgia
  4. Oh no no no, can’t... resist... a Tomcat... with... Aim54s...
  5. https://fselitemedia.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/fselite/2018/11/45744364_10156453524253499_8525079031052238848_o-1-1600x900.jpg
  6. I'm really looking forward to watching this one progress. I used to love the show and I've got the DVDs somewhere. Will be following with lots of interest trickyrich. Kind Regards, Dazz
  7. Hi, We just got in a series of 11 pics of the Merlin Engine bays; goto the end of this set of pics. Julien
  8. F-22A Upgrades (for Hasegawa) 1:48 Eduard Hasegawa released their Raptor just after the Academy released theirs, both having their pluses and minuses in the shape and detail department, but I'm guessing you went for the Hasegawa one if you're reading this. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. The two sets are to be used inside the cockpit, and if you get the cockpit set it would be churlish to omit the seatbelts, so we'll review them together. F-22A Interior (491014) This set includes a nickel-plated pre-printed sheet and a slightly larger fret of bare brass, plus a small slip of acetate with the HUD glazing shapes printed upon it. It contains a complete re-vamp of the main instrument panel in two layers, additional layers for the side consoles and their smaller panel sections, plus a new HUD into which the acetate is fitted. The seat is overhauled with new detail where there was none previously, crew controls, more delicate side parts, and ejection ramp parts, all of which require a little modification/removal of existing details. The cockpit sills and the turtle-deck behind the pilot is also detailed, as is the lip and interior of the canopy frame, all of which will be visible whether you leave the canopy open or not, but more so if open. Seatbelts STEEL (FE1015) This set on the thinner steel etch contains a full set of pre-printed crew belts with the new simulated "depth" achieved with shading, plus a set of yellow handles on the seat sides and between the pilot's knees for a quick getaway in an emergency. If you've got the cockpit set above, you should probably put all the seat details together at the same time. Review sample courtesy of
  9. I've never seen that scheme on a Vulcan. Interesting. Red Flag?
  10. Hi, Yeah, they're mounted wrong on instructions and I never clocked it till too late. I completely rogered the flaps trying to fix it this build is starting to hack me off slightly, not a lot has gone right at this stage!
  11. Thank you. It's just two bits of skirting board glued together, given a wash and the varnished but i think it works quite well. Cheers, Alistair
  12. That's correct. Fokker factory green used on the metal frame, some struts, etc...was a greenish grey. Sometimes the struts were covered in doped lozenge fabric too. Regarding cowlings...they varied a great deal from the beginning of the war (when they were not open enough and overheated the motor causing the ammo to explode!) and also from each manufacturer. The Datafiles have very detailed diagrams based on serial numbers and production runs. Enjoy the Fokker! Hopefully it is not a Roden product!
  13. Looking like zinc chromate front & black at the back. Cheers
  14. lasermonkey

    In Solitude?

    To be honest, I'm a pretty solitary person anyway and although I'm probably fairly close to a few modelling clubs, I've never felt the need to join one. I haven't had any "real life" model making friends since I left school, and that was a looooooong time ago! Cheers, Mark.
  15. Excellent pics, thanks for sharing them.
  16. Hello Can anybody give me a source for the correct size wingtip fuel tanks tor a 1/72 Super Constellation Thanks Gooney Fan
  17. I have a 1/48 resin model of the Bede BD-5J. If wonder if a 1/48 figure is available that I could use as Bond? Just watched a clip, I would have sworn there was a Union flag on the fin...
  18. A little bit more progress. Finally glued the decks to the hull. There are some gaps round the edges that I've started to fill but I don't think it will be too noticeable once the railings are in place. Completed the turrets and gave them a bit of shading and weathering, so I dry fitted them along with the pagoda to see what it will look like. Very busy, I think. This must have been an intimidating ship in its day. Next up I'm going to have a crack at the flight deck. That could potentially be the fiddliest part so far, since the grey PE tracks, turntables and other fittings will need to be painted before attaching to the brown deck. Not to mention the aircraft - maybe I could imagine they've all flown off on a secret mission.
  19. Quick question if I may, the forty or so mkiid's that went to the soviets in 1944. Some seem to have been completely repainted before shipping and some delivered with just the roundals painted out but I have been unable to find picture showing any aircraft with the stencils in place. Did the soviets paint the stencils out or leave them in place?
  20. Thank you Sir. You're a braver man than me. Although I really enjoyed the whole experience it made me feel like i'd really achieved something, the next time will be the new tool that Airfix are going to bring out. (Wishful Thinking) Cheers, Alistair
  21. Oven cleaner will strip plastic and attack the glue joints as well, but it will make the plastic brittle, and obviously will cloud clear parts.
  22. Nice start on a very old kit. I have 3 of the first run and found one to be badly warped. Haven't started any of the at this point because of other projects. Just curious on how Revell mold and fit would be. I'll watch with great interest your progression through your build. So I'll sit back and relax. Ron VanDerwarker
  23. Whenever travelling south on the M6 we use the M6 Toll to avoid Birmingham traffic. Our sat nav doesn’t like this and recommends turning off at every exit as we approach. Funnily enough, once we ignore it going back north, it shrugs and plays ball. Technology eh?! Trevor
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...