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Thanks Cliff, just sandpaper and skinny sanding sticks (Albion Alloys) for the buffing. Now you come to mention it I have got a Black and Decker ‘Dremel’ style tool which I might dig out. I’m currently waiting for Alclad Primer and Microfiller to arrive from Wonderland but there’s a bit of a delay - are there any alternatives for priming resin?
I feel that was about The Office, cringeworthingly pointless. whereas Fawlty Towers was brilliant. The ultimate British farce. What did you expect to see from a Torquay bedroom window? Wildebeest sweeping majestically across the plain?
Kingswear1 replied to Mancunian airman's topic in Aviation ChatGloster Meteor, especially the T Mk. 7 and the De Havilland Rapide.
Getting Old replied to Dubz's topic in Work In Progress - SF & RealSpaceVery nice work
A very 'right' looking Hurricane! While it is supposed to be a truly 'out of box' OOB build, in 1:48th I guess a strue, or Uschi van der Rosten elastic thread, aerial wire wouldn't have been entirely out of place… Splendid modelling! Kind regards, Joachim
Thanks Greg...I used Gunze H417 for the RLM76 light blue, H421 for the RLM81 brown/violet and H422 for the RLM82 light green. That's my view, too...it's just too regular. Mind you, I've seen a lot worse on the real thing during my research: but it's not the look I was going for at all... Thanks Joachim, I'm moving away from stark panel lines these days. I only washed the areas around the control surfaces and several removable panels, and I didn't do any weathering as these planes weren't in service for that long. Dean
Thanks for the detailed reply, so I can clearly see that C intakes are longer, A intakes are shorter, Bentwaters 81tfw made the statement that the length of lip to wing root should be 17mm but add 5.82mm(11 inches) to that you get 22.82 mm you got 22mm after adding 2mm to the length of the intake, so IMHO this is a good starting point as to where to add material. On a different note how do you add pictures to a post?
More progress: Engine and exhausts in place, the exhausts are a nightmare to install. Had them the wrong way around and glued in CA, took them out and stuck them in the right way with PVA. MGs and pitot tube will be replaced with tubing. The MGs have to have a piece added to them to make them longer, there is no way the glued extensions would stay in place. Have a look at the box art. Engine cover had to be thinned on the inside to fit over the engine and some of the exhausts had to be chopped a tad. Wonky wheel is also fixed. I have snapped the tail wheel off. Thanks for looking. Stephen
Very neat build, enhancing the clean lines of the 262. Since the panel joints on the original were puttied and sanded down, it's good to see the absence of a misplaced dark wash to make them stand out! Kind regards, Joachim
The final bits have now been added to the engine nacelles and the everything's had its first shot of primer. I ended up using virtually no filler, but took a long time sanding to get rid of all the joins. The box top says 'No cutting - No sanding', but I beg to differ! I guess though, that when this kit was released the norm was to model in wood - so everything's relative. I've just got the two clear parts to fit now, both of which are pretty horrible. The nose cone is the worst, as it has a prominent white spiral running through its core. This was presumably caused by some contamination of the clear plastic when it was being moulded. I've never seen anything like this before and, pretty though it is, it makes the piece unusable . I think I've got two alternatives options: Plunge mould a replacement Carve/sand/polish a new piece from a solid block of clear plastic. I'm tempted to try the plunge moulding first, as I've never had any success with this technique. I reckon this nose cone must be simple as it gets, so hopefully I can prevail this time! Failing that, I'm pretty sure that the carving approach will work OK. Cheers Cliff
chillaton replied to Procopius's topic in WWIIThis is a picture I have never seen before. I cannot remember anything in "Enemy Coast Ahead" about testing a new bombsite ( and I have the unedited version) so I am as intrigued as you to find answers to this one.
Troy Smith replied to Sturmovik's topic in WWIIThis is the option from the Airfix Mk.I starter set. Someone here will have bought multiples of this kit, and have this option leftover, though if I had to be pedantic..... the Spit 22 only existed in 1946 after the equivalent of 20 years (or more) of airframe development had been compressed into 5 years.... so what the RAF would have been equipped with in 1946..... So, depending on your backstory.... IIRC I saw someone do a Spitfire I in a very fetching pre-war type scheme, polished natural metal with those colourful squadron markings.... probably overthinking it.... HTH
After a bit of work on the fuselage seams, I added the remain panels to the fuselage, they dropped in very neatly. Then on to the wings. I followed the instructions to the letter, adding the upper wing half first to the spars followed by the lower wing. Seemed to work very well. On with the main landing gear, again following the instructions to the letter. Left it to set for the recommended 60 min . I dry fitted the tail part and engine nacelles. Stuffed a whole lot of lead and blutak into the nacelles, and it looks like it should be enough. Really happy with how this is going - a really fun build so far.
Cheers mate. It is always good to look for the reviews. Dragon came up with a lot of 2in1 kits lately. For me this is a great option as you pay the same money as for the other kits but usually get a load of spare parts. But this isnt necessarily interesting for everybody.
cngaero started following Some non-standard items on Gibson's Lanc "Admiral Prune"
Thanks a lot , you just saved me some good money ; that is quite misleading of them to advertise it like that on the box as it would have cost me 30$ after postage for a single 72nd scale kit while the revell variant , only slightly inferior as per reviews , will cost me 15 .
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