Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. 1/72nd scale Tachikawa Ki-54 Hickory. Special hobby showed tooling in process several months ago.
  3. Do you make dive siren noises whilst terror bombing the cat? I would if I'd made such a nice Stuka.
  4. Blimey this is nuts sir. I’ve just discovered this thread and read it through. I’ll second the term masterpiece. The interior was enough to behold, but the finish on the fuselage is just wonderful. Amazing talent. I should sheepishly add add that I have 5-6 144th B-36s which I have pathetically put off building for want of somewhere to hangar them when they are done. In short, I am in awe. Please do continue - don’t let me interrupt. I’ll just sit here quietly and gape.
  5. I see what you did there. I've been dissolved by IPA meself, but my current solvents tend toward lagers. On a more serious note, use caution cleaning with alcohol around Tamiya paintwork. Alcohol lifts Tamiya paint very easily even after curing, even when I've used cellulose thinners to reduce the paint for spraying.
  6. Well this is well timed! After nigh on 50 years modelling did my first aerial wire today, yay. It was on an Airfix 1/72 Hurricane I and I had the same trepidation for the same reason as you. I also used Uschi thread. First tip, use 'Fine' for 1/72 not 'Super Fine' as, for me, the latter is almost invisible and difficult to work with. Second, I struggle with liquid superglue so always use gel ( in this case Gorilla Glue) which is much easier to control. Technique was to hold glue tube vertically and bring aerial pole of the model down to the tip of the tube so the tiniest drop was attached, stretch the line across and with a micro brush put hardener on it. It's then fixed solid and will take a bit of rough handling. At the other end do the same ie tiny drop, stretched line across and hardener. Trim both ends with sharp knife and voila! I found that for the insulators tiny drops of superglue gel on the line work well. I was well pleased with the result this afternoon, whether it holds together only time will tell.
  7. Billy54


    Hello, My son and I are pl ann ing Please ignore this post, the title is incomplete and I seem to be having problems with my keyboard/mouse/computer .
  8. @Cellarfrog that is a fantastic diorama - very evocative, great weathering and a superb build. One question if I may? How did you make that fence? It is perfection!
  9. Colin W


    Made a big more progress on this Viggen. The original cockpit is ok so I just painted it with mid grey and picked out the details. I even think it's ok without the PE. Wheel bays added and flaps removed. Colin
  10. ?? Source: http://www.specialhobby.net/2020/01/norimberk-2020-priprava-zacatek.html V.P.
  11. Hello everyone... Sanded and polished out to 1000 grit W/D. I then added the bomb-bay doors, not the best fitting but will clean it up by filling, sanding, and re-scribing. The horizontal stabs are on with the support braces. Im of two minds on the verticals/rudders ? Do I add them before paint, or after ? It would be a lot easier to mask with them off, but if theres a gap then i have to repaint anyway ? So I think i will add the vert’s. before paint. Questions, comments, and or thoughts ? Dennis
  12. Yesterday
  13. A new tool 1/72nd Fairey Albacore kit by Special Hobby - ref. SH72xxx Source: http://www.specialhobby.net/2020/01/norimberk-2020-priprava-zacatek.html V.P.
  14. The problem with weathering and compound, rather than single pigment, colours is that it can produce very surprising results. Remember the old red Fords that turned a fetching pink after very little exposure to sunlight? Then you have WWI PC10 which looked distinctly Green and yet there was no green in the mix being largely Yellow Ochre and Lamp Black. I suspect that the USN dark sea blue may have been sometimes mixed to be a sort of 'Payne's Grey' which is a mixture of a dark blue like Ultramarine (Strong Blue slightly to the red side of the spectrum) or Prussian Blue (Slightly greenish blue) and a red like Cadmium Red, Red Ochre, Scarlet etc. and, depending on accuracy and thoroughness of the mix and weathering it could fade to grey, be slightly greenish, or slightly purplish.
  15. Hello, that looks fine in all aspects and a look now on your old church could always have something inspiring. No matter in what directions.
  16. Looking forward to this one but I hope the kit is rigged straighter than the aircraft depicted in the artwork. Chris.
  17. OK. I've discovered that the Humbrol paint that came with this starter kit is horrid to airbrush, even thinned. Seems to be the general consensus online too. So I'm now trying to make a Vallejo approximation from the colours I have available, while my nozzle soaks in AB cleaner
  18. Cracking build. My dad built me one back in 1993! Superb kit and superb finish mate
  19. On display at the Nurnberg Toy Fair 2020 Source: http://www.specialhobby.net/2020/01/norimberk-2020-priprava-zacatek.html V.P.
  20. tonyot

    PB4 Privateer

    A far as I can remember the codes were Medium Sea Grey mate. Glad you like it. I would go for MSG on your Otter,..... although it is hard to judge without a photo,...... it may also be white? LOL,.... thanks Mike!
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...