This stream auto-updates
- Past hour
I have been building this alongside a Revell Bugatti EB110. Both mid-engine supercars, they could not be more different as model kits in terms of how Revell/Tamiya went about them.. Pros: Usual Tamiya high quality. Mostly perfect fitment, great moulding and detail. Has half an engine. Thoughtfully engineered kit makes painting of a lot of parts easy - if it's a different colour in real life, they moulded it as a separate part. Good quality decals, nice semi-shiny alloy finish and tyres with no mould line to remove. Lights and glass parts have large extra tabs to air glueing and perfect placement, in fact a lot of parts have been moulded to aid perfect fitment, with little tabs, lines etc. Body is moulded in white, which I wish more kits were. Headlights in particular are a standout item for detail. Cons: Assembly of the body panels does cause glue to spurt out of some gaps, necessitating a cleanup. Some f the body joint tabs are small, some optimising on the part of the designer there. Once the body is fited to the chassis, I had a gap around the middle where the doors meet the sills. A lot of messing about semi-corrected this but it's not perfect. I can't see anything I've done or added in the build to cause this. Some of the vents that'd have mesh in real life have a transparent part and a mesh-decal, which is odd and I used real mesh. The larger meshed areas are solid plastic, though something more detailed would have been nice OOB - especially on the side vents where you could see through to radiators in real life. Some of the build is a bit fiddly. Verdict: A very nice kit from Tamiya. A little fiddly so not for beginners. It will produce a very good result. Build notes: Aside from a few bits of mesh and carbon fibre decals on the sills, it's built OOB. As often with Tamiya the thing is so perfect there's not a lot of scope for adding more. Not easily visible on the photos but easily visible to me are some blemishes on the paint cause by gluey fingers whilst trying to get the body to sit correctly onto the chassis. It's not a flawless build which is a little annoying. It's the kind of kit I'd love to build twice to take the benefit of that experience and do it better the next time.
Looking closely at the sprues, assuming it was an OAW built airframe, you can do the MAG one at pretty much any point in its career. There are guns and ammo boxes for both the Schwartlose and Vickers armament (the sheer daftness of a Fokker fitted with Vickers guns really appeals). The MAG engine and two types of exhausts are there. The only thing I can’t find is the blanking piece for an unarmed aircraft. It’s probably there but I just haven’t found it.
So... there we go! As I said earlier in the thread, I was building four of these in parallel. Well... at least I was yesterday. Two are for the Specialists GB and one for the Sharmouth GB. I will document those builds in the correct place, but it's difficult to see how the photos will be any different to what you see here. I cannot recommend this kit highly enough. The Eduard Weekend editions have always been a very stripped down version of the Profipak boxing but the more modern ones have a choice of decals schemes. This Weekend kit has everything you need in the box except for masks. No need to buy PE or resin. The kit is a perfect mojo restorer and can actually be built in a weekend!
Looks great to me. I had a similar problem with extensive and horrible lookibg white 'blooming' after I used tamiya matt coat on a model recently (also a tornado funnily enough). A quick coat of gloss clear coat as advised on here cured it then matt coated again no problem.
I use Mr Color, which is very hard to lift. Having said that, surface prep and tape prep are good practices no matter what the paint formulation. Surface prep: Before painting, I give the plastic a once-over with 91% Isopropyl alcohol. For larger parts, I'll use cotton makeup removal pads. For smaller parts and tight areas, I'll use cotton swabs, both the makeup variety as well as those pointed modeller's swabs. Tape prep: I always wash my hands before touching my models. That gives my palm a good surface to detack Tamiya tape. Before applying to model, I apply the tape to the palm of my hand.
I've always used Tamiya acrylic, I never wash parts and sometimes don't prime, but I have never had a problem with Tamiya masking tape as you describe. So in my opinion, it isn't acrylic paint that causing your problem - although I've no idea what is.
I finally got a good blue coat on. This was Lifecolor UA044 Non-specular Sea Blue. It was sealed and glossed up with an overspray of gloss auto lacquer from a rattle can. The greeblies are always time consuming. They took me a good couple of hours. Decals are from the kit. The kit destructions show the rockets as being painted white. I have my doubts about that and painted them olive drab instead. And finally...
I've had that fridge better part of 20 years. It has followed me on many an adventure. Besides I need some place to keep the celebratory beverages and the back up liquid courage in times of high stress and flagging will.
Hi Pat, Like I said before I just hope I don't regret it - if I don't screw up (and that is a big "if") it should look quite good, at least by my standards. It would be interesting if somebody else were to build one (hint) so I have something to compare with. Thanks for your support - I will probably need it, together with several bottles of Scotch to calm my nerves. Not looking forward to the ruddy intake door for the Vipers. Pete
I've always got Hellcats in The Stash. Here we go. This was the secene yesterday morning. First job is to complete the cockpit. This is a lovely little assembly. If you buy the Profipack boxing, the instrument panel and seat harness come as coloured PE. In the Weekend boxing, they are decals which in my opinion look just as good. Cockpit interior painted. I used Xtracrylix XA1117 Interior Green and gave the while think a thin coat of matt auto lacquer from a rattle can. Fuselage and wings assembled, ready for main assembly. Which is now done. The cowling is assembled as well. The joint lines have been painted over with Mr surfacer, but it's not absolutely necessary. Sanding with 400 grade wet and dry and then sealing with liquid cement works just as well. Engine built. Well... engines... as I'm building four of them at once. Windscreen fitted and masked. Primes with auto grey plastic primer from a rattle can. After that, it was time to spray the blue. That took a while. I don't know why, but I always have problems spraying blue. Doesn't matter what manufacturer makes the paint or how much is is thinned, it always seems to clog the airbrush. I spent most of yesterday evening laboriously spraying thin coats and then stripping down and cleaning the airbrush in an ultrasonic bath.
Cheers. I've notice one thing with this putty. It must be oil based, so after remove when I've used Sidolux (Wooden/PVC floor policy liquid something similar to Johnson's Clear) it was hard to apply to surface where the masking was. It was "slipping" away. But at the end I've managed to cover it.
And the outrigger wheels. The only info I had on hand being the overall diameter, I can't guarantee accuracy (but it looks good, so...). And now, the instrument panel and its quingigillion of dials... Cheers, S.
So... Cockpit is done. I didn’t bother with any framing, as it’s not really visible, and I didn’t want to crowd things. Fuselage halves together. It’s not the best pic, but it does illustrate the pointlessness of painting any engine detail. When I do the next one, I think I might paint the inlet pipes pale cream to represent lagging, just to break the monotony of the black, as they are just visible. The lower wing is on now, and I’m sorting out the seams. Only the top ones need close attention, along with the lower cowl, because there is a lovely stitching strip along the belly joint that hides the belly join.
I have seen modelers on youtube peel off masking tape from surfaces airbrushed with Tamiya/Gunze paints with good results. However I must admit I can't recall Vallejo or Revell being abused in a similar manner without ill effect. But what you are saying is that all this is a common problem with acrylics?
I was just reminded of this thread, and I took a look at the test piece. Still no change. Weird. It seems like it should've happened by now. So, maybe it was a combination of the brasso and the Testors decals. At any rate I am fairly satisfied that the decals for some of my upcoming builds are safe with Alclad polished aluminum. I'll continue to monitor and update. I figure a year will be long enough, so I'll continue to watch it until then.
I was doing some research this afternoon and one Google link led me to a small local newspaper in the USA but when I tried to access it I got this response . . . . . 451: Unavailable due to legal reasons We recognize you are attempting to access this website from a country belonging to the European Economic Area (EEA) including the EU which enforces the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) and therefore access cannot be granted at this time. Tried a few other local newspapers in the US and found that several although not all gave the same response. I am aware that GDPR is rather all-encompassing here when it comes to the holding and sharing of personal data but have been left wondering who is being protected from what when it prevents access to a newspaper.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 171 Members, 4 Anonymous, 883 Guests (See full list)
- Tomas Enerdal
- Chris Jephcott
- Giorgio N
- Mark Szeman
- johnny akes
- Arthur Miggins
- Alex Gordon
- rod mcq
- Anthony Kesterton
- Enzo Matrix
- Robert Stuart
- Andy Robbins
- Andrew Kolstad
- Paul A H
- Matt P
- Ben Brown
- Roger Newsome
- Gary C
- Creepy Pete
- Heather Kay
- Grey Beema
- Chris Thomas
- Kris B
- RT Nevada
- Max Headroom
- Michael M
- Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies
- Dave Swindell
- Mig Eater