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  1. Past hour
  2. Yeah, I think it hits that spot between Alclad Polished Aluminum and Tamiya Silver Leaf. It's really easy to use too.
  3. Exhausts: I drew up a selection of pipes for the exhaust system - printer had a fit in the first print so I ended up with a solid lump halfway up the pipes - be good for a space craft panel in the future! Re-setting the level of the printer plate solved the issue and I printed the pipes... Lots of trimming and sanding later, I had a 'kit' of parts. A slow process of offering the exhaust up to the car and cutting each pipe to size and length so it fitted through the skin - just as much of a pain as when you fit the 1:1 'real' pipes - believe me! But everything fitted together fairly well... Of course there are two of them. I added some details, such as exhaust clamps and tabs. I wanted to paint everything in one go, rather than add after - on the real exhaust everything is pretty much the same colour... Pretty chuffed how these came out - again the 3D printer saved a lot of work with trying to bend plastic tube - you still have to put the work in drawing the parts, and a lot of finishing... Primed and ready to paint... The holes on one can are for the rivets - fitted after painting.
  4. I agree, the AK Interactive paint looks really good! Cheers / André
  5. Hi checked my AP manuals but sorry no photos or drawings cheers jerry
  6. Hi Dave. Aye, the Vet told us that he wouldn't even attempt such a complicated and extensive operation. It would take a specialist, would cost upwards of eleven thousand or so which we don't have (we aren't insured either though I doubt that would have made a difference) and the operation would have little chance of success or even of giving her a good quality of life. I think that, deep down, I knew instinctively from the first time we noticed the swelling but was hoping against hope it was just a bee sting or a cist or something. The vet seemed to know as soon as he looked at her face although he gave her a thorough examination to rule out some kind of dental problem etc. He said that there was pretty much nothing we could have done from the moment the cancer started. He gave her a strong course of steroids and, if she doesn't go downhill quicker, we've to take her back to him in three weeks so he can assess her condition. I suspect that he reckons three weeks is about all the time she's got before it will be time.
  7. Andre B

    P-51D "Dappy VI"

    Ok, the Hasegawa decals for the P-51D Mustang (kit no. A12 also as no. JS-101) dated 1987. The name "Dappy VI" can be seen in green and white (decal no. 9). https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hasegawa-a16-mustang-p-51d-north-american--158278 Cheers / André
  8. Thanks! I'm really happy with it so far. I can't wait to paint the Aluminum panels to see how the contrast turns out.
  9. Another picture of the Linberg kit. This time of the box (with no "Boeing logo's) with instructions. I like the bottomtext on the box... "Cut on dotted line and fold back to use package as tray for parts while assembling" ! Cheers / André
  10. Good to have you along Beefy, just don't look at the PE...
  11. Yesterday
  12. That looks superb, cannot wait for mine to arrive.
  13. Hi got two on back order at hannants and they are on discount too cheers jerry
  14. Nevertheless, these are great modeling reference photos for Phantom pfans! Thanks for sharing, Keith! Mike
  15. Sorry to hear that Marty. I lost my cat 4years ago. He was a white & had ear cancer. I'd had him to the vets twice for ops. & he had no ears left when it started again. When I took him to the vets he said he could probably give him another fairly comfortable six months but he'd have to go into his heed, their being no ear left. Bob hated it when he had those stupid cowl things post op & because the vet wasn't sure it would do any good I reluctantly put him to sleep. It's not easy but you have to put the animal first.
  16. Awesome! Looks like you have the wings parallel in gap and stagger too. im pretty sure a Shark is worth double kudos points for finishing (OK, I’ll throw in double points for twins and 4x points for Shacks/B17s/Lincolns) Regards, Adrian
  17. 'fraud not. Not my pix and probably some time before I started shooting aircraft.
  18. One of the benefits of an all black finish is that yellowed decal film won’t really make a difference. I have an Airfix one in the stash so I’m looking forward to a compare and contrast. Regards, Adrian
  19. Does look smashing. Good work on the plunge moulding. Regards, Adrian
  20. My first 1/72 scale P-51D was the 1991 Airfix P-51D with Swedish decals (1974 tool). Here you have the 1963 Revell P-51D (bottom) with the 1955 Lindberg (top) and 1962 Airfix (middle) kits. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/lindberg-309-29-north-american-p-51d-mustang--987619 https://www.scalemates.com/kits/airfix-1405-north-american-mustang--170927 https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-h-619-p-51d-mustang--158272 Cheers / André
  21. Hi Soeren, That's a lovely little scene you've made there, making good use of those odds and ends from your 'One day these may be useful for a diorama' stash. I too have the Tamiya ammo loading crew kit, but as yet I haven't made a 'summer' tank for them to load up, so they remain in their box. I have to say that when I opened my box I was rather disappointed because the the guy passing up the round has the largest hands and fingers of any 1/35th figure I've ever seen; so large that it put me off the idea of ever using him. But I must say that your figures look fantastic; well painted, well positioned and the huge hands don't jump out at me and scream 'huge hands!' Your Jagdpanther is well made and beautifully painted with an interesting camo scheme, and is a lovely addition to your set. And amongst your 'odds and ends' I do like how youve painted the donkey/mule. It's very hard to get some animal skins/furs looking realistic, but you've captured that shiny, slightly greasy coat perfectly. My only criticism would be that the Jagdpanther needs to be sunk into the mud, or have the mud oozed up beside and over the tracks. If you were too worried about pressing your model into wet plaster/clay to bed it in more realistically, you could do what I do and place clingfilm over the wet plaster/clay and then press your model down into it. You can then wait for the plaster/clay to start setting and then remove your model cleanly, without any plaster sticking to or dirtying the tracks. Once dry and painted, you can place your model in the ruts without 'sticking' it in place. Rearguards, Badder
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