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Hmm...ran across this by accident P2923, VY-R..... again my sig line is proved right. If this is the standard.... note the profile gets the nose camo line wrong, and the position of the rear 'V' P2923 is a rarity, at the time of the image above it was photographed from about every possible angle. This image should put paid to the notion of it having a black spinner If you compare to the gun port doping.... compare to the fin flash Maybe a small glitch, but shows lack of care..... The mention of the AK Real Colors of WW2 Armour book, this is a link to some comments about the British section of said book by a very disgruntled 'author' @Mike Starmer of the British section more here I'd certainly be interested to check the AK book out, and from what I have read the aircraft one is better than the armour one, but as AK also sell paint, on the back of their 'research' https://ak-interactive.com/product/ww2-us-navy-and-usmc-aircraft-colors/ No mention of the ANA codes, or that in 1947 the USN changed the formula and colour of ANA 623 Glossy Sea Blue to FS15042, whcih are not the same. Noi mention that the mid war '3 color' scheme is actually 4 colours. the problem, and confusion with Gloss Sea Blue is there are two of them, 1944 to 47, ANA623 (not ANA607) to the FS15042 I collated the relevant bits here I'll paste this in as it explains my concern, and what is known, and available for free, here, by one of the noted researchers on US Colors start quote.... this is best explained by @Dana Bell So, if you use enamel, the Colourcoats are the way to go. For acrylic, I don't know. I did pick up a copy of the Mongram USN painting guide which has color chips, but I have not had chance to do some comparison with the paints I have. Note, the "tri color scheme" has three blues, not two, using a mix of the ANA606 semi gloss and ANA607 Non-Specular Sea Blue, again, Dana to the rescue from https://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/tbf/tbf_profile01.shtml with a list of paints, but how useful the matches are I don't know. AK interative do a USN set, but no idea again how the matches are the blurb does not inspire confidence.... end quote Can anyone compare the USN section with the information above? If it does not mention the difference between the Glossy Sea Blues and the 4 colors or the '3 color scheme' then that section is inaccurate. Hope this adds to the discussion
Fantastic work Enrico... as usual... I like it... very nice... I agree... it's a very interesting company... I bought the masks (not decal) for my Barak and the result is excellent!!
canberra kid replied to Rabbit Leader's topic in Cold WarNo problems Dave, the rather tatty paint work on 06 was due to flying through a hail storm! I've dug out some more photos that may be of interest/use? John
1/72 - MiG-25RB/RBT & RBF "Foxbat-B & -D" by ICM - RBT & RB released - new RBF variant in April 2019
madcop replied to Homebee's topic in The Rumourmonger+ 1
I think the FROG F code could still be used with the Frogspawn kits as the molds are pretty much the same. Decals or transfers would be the main differences to the original issues, but even original FROG builds will in all probability get them changed to suit the builders tastes. The Hasegawa/FROG mold swapping still works as well, using the FROG catalogue numbers even if the kit was in a Hasegawa box. The mold is the same in each case. Ditto the Revell stuff and any other oddballs. Maybe add something in brackets to the number to denote the build is from something other than a FROG original? I can't see it making much difference though, the kit remains the same. I would argue that anything that appeared in an original FROG catalogue is good to go. That covers even the oddities like the imported AMT car kits. Anything that allows more builds has got to be a good idea. Can we start yet? Tony, getting a bit twitchy...
Looks like someones trying to enter the cockpit of an aircraft (two tone grey with '53' in white) in the background. Can't quite make out what it is but it looks to have very long landing gear (a Skyhawk would be my guess)
Thanks Cliff, just sandpaper and skinny sanding sticks (Albion Alloys) for the buffing. Now you come to mention it I have got a Black and Decker ‘Dremel’ style tool which I might dig out. I’m currently waiting for Alclad Primer and Microfiller to arrive from Wonderland but there’s a bit of a delay - are there any alternatives for priming resin?
I feel that was about The Office, cringeworthingly pointless. whereas Fawlty Towers was brilliant. The ultimate British farce. What did you expect to see from a Torquay bedroom window? Wildebeest sweeping majestically across the plain?
Kingswear1 replied to Mancunian airman's topic in Aviation ChatGloster Meteor, especially the T Mk. 7 and the De Havilland Rapide.
Getting Old replied to Dubz's topic in Work In Progress - SF & RealSpaceVery nice work
A very 'right' looking Hurricane! While it is supposed to be a truly 'out of box' OOB build, in 1:48th I guess a strue, or Uschi van der Rosten elastic thread, aerial wire wouldn't have been entirely out of place… Splendid modelling! Kind regards, Joachim
Thanks Greg...I used Gunze H417 for the RLM76 light blue, H421 for the RLM81 brown/violet and H422 for the RLM82 light green. That's my view, too...it's just too regular. Mind you, I've seen a lot worse on the real thing during my research: but it's not the look I was going for at all... Thanks Joachim, I'm moving away from stark panel lines these days. I only washed the areas around the control surfaces and several removable panels, and I didn't do any weathering as these planes weren't in service for that long. Dean
Thanks for the detailed reply, so I can clearly see that C intakes are longer, A intakes are shorter, Bentwaters 81tfw made the statement that the length of lip to wing root should be 17mm but add 5.82mm(11 inches) to that you get 22.82 mm you got 22mm after adding 2mm to the length of the intake, so IMHO this is a good starting point as to where to add material. On a different note how do you add pictures to a post?
More progress: Engine and exhausts in place, the exhausts are a nightmare to install. Had them the wrong way around and glued in CA, took them out and stuck them in the right way with PVA. MGs and pitot tube will be replaced with tubing. The MGs have to have a piece added to them to make them longer, there is no way the glued extensions would stay in place. Have a look at the box art. Engine cover had to be thinned on the inside to fit over the engine and some of the exhausts had to be chopped a tad. Wonky wheel is also fixed. I have snapped the tail wheel off. Thanks for looking. Stephen
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