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  2. I bought a couple of sets from SBS. Now Metalic Details has issued a similar set. I would be thankful if you would post your progress picks!!
  3. I've got some more colour onto those AP bombs, but there is a lot of tidying up to do. That's not a great photo as I'd already packed everything away before remembering I had not got a picture of them so they are just under the bedside light instead of on the workbench. I have not got the colour change between the tail assemblies, the bodies and the nose cones in exactly the same place for all four so I shall have to re do those being more careful. I reprofiled the nose cones as the originals were quite asymmetric. They're better but not great. I have seen different descriptions of the pale green on the noses. Some sources say it was a band indicating the bombs were filled with shellite, others say it was the whole nose cones to mark the bombs as armour piercing. I will add the white-red-white bands once I'm happy with the base colours. I want the bodies to look as if they were originally buff, have been repainted in the field into a khaki green and have then sat in an open bomb dump for many, many months. It's all a work in progress. Onwards and Upwards.
  4. After the day I had at work today, I needed to relax. I decided to start pre-shading this bird. I'm reminded of a line from the John Wayne movie "Big Jake": "Oh, mister. You shouldn't of ought'a done that." It looks like it was done by an epileptic baboon with a bad case of the DTs! Definitely not an example of my best work! 😳 I think I over thinned the paint. I was using a double action brush at about 10 psi, trying to get in close enough to see what faint panel lines there are on this kit! Maybe tomorrow I'll flip it over and do the top. Never try to do detail work when you're frazzled.
  5. Very nice looking Zimm… looks like you nailed it. It’s not something I’ve tried myself, but I sympathise with your milliput and green stuff woes. One of them is too sticky and the other not sticky enough, but I’ve found that if you mix them together (50/50) they hit the Goldilocks zone very well.
  6. Great stuff… dad and lad time - hurrah! I got into modelling about that age, and had great fun with my kids when they hit 9 or 10 and joined me for some modelling. I’m sure you’ll make a great teacher and look forward to seeing the results of your joint effort!
  7. I took screen shot’s of both to read and study in the future.
  8. That price can't be correct. I've emailed them for confirmation. Will keep you posted.
  9. Hello everyone … As this theater gets little attention compared to NWE or the Southwest Pacific. I think we could wrangle enough interest in a group build. Dates would start on December 8th 1941 and go to September 2nd 1945. It could be anything that was operating in or on the sub-continent of India, Indochina, or China. The Naval area of operations would be anything from the eastern edge of 1940 India (Pakistan). Through to the south china sea. Western edges of Philippines and Borneo. I will say the western coast of Australia is the south eastern border of the Indian ocean. Madagascar would be the western edge, and Antarctica will be the extreme south edge. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/South-East_Asian_theatre_of_World_War_II https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/China_Burma_India_theater If anyone is interested in this please say so. 1. Corsairfoxfouruncle (Host) 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 12a. 14. 15. Dennis
  10. I think that the Aviation History article (post 2) and the Arma article are as good as you are going to get. It's enough detail to build 02 a Yak-1 and 23 a Yak-1b.
  11. Very nice work Paul; great weathering. Maybe the driver’s a bit concerned about just how much he managed to fit in the back and the effect it might have on the efficiency of the brakes and suspension!
  12. G'day Jeff, I wouldn't know either, and at 1/600 is unlikely to be a concern for me. 🙂 But I'm inclined to lean towards Jon's view - a wood handle and either a red head or red bracket, something along those lines, maybe red on the handle at the operator's end. Regards, Jeff (the other Jeff 🙂)
  13. Another great result Maddox - excellent figures, great vehicle and very tidy diorama. I’m with you on Hobbyboss; I really like their stuff too.
  14. Yesterday
  15. Thank you all for looking & praise— @Corsairfoxfouruncle, @Sabrejet, @opus999, @Cookenbacher, @mark.au, @georgeusa, @don f, @Rando—thank you all for the comments/suggestions—means a lot coming from accomplished builders like you. I should probably think about a carrier deck, or a diorama someday, but for now I am focusing on building skills. Next focus is on photography and I picked up a photo booth based on vectors from @giemme or @The Spadgent—looking forward to using it in my next RFI—best to all! Erwin
  16. Definitely getting there. I cut a couple of triangles of 1mm thick card and glued them onto the last bare corner of the base and then applied PVA and scenic scatter material as before. I made the scatter mix slightly darker this time to represent longer grass, further from the peri-track mown less frequently. That is the top left corner here. I think it works reasonably well for a first attempt. As usual the camera is high-lighting flaws that are not so obvious to the naked eye. I'll fix those on Friday. Thanks for looking in. Murray
  17. Thank you very much for this. I did find a list of Miles types with brief notes on another web page that described the M2Y as having M2P wings, suggesting (but by no means explicitly stating) that the M2W didn't. As it was in note form though there was probably not an intention to be too precise... I have not yet unearthed why the Magister had the bigger wings and the inset ailerons. Do you have an insight into that? I had wondered if it was simply a move with the times as inset ailerons had suddenly become 'a la mode' - or there was something more specific? Finally I am becoming a little confused as to what type of M2 is K8626? I have seen it described as an M2H, M2P and a 'Hawk Trainer'.....!
  18. There are only four schemes to choose from and they are all illustrated in colour below I think you may be confusing scheme numbers with what is actually the unit company number? These are reflected on the turret decals with the first number representing the company. But there is also a typo where it illustrates turret number 332. In the description they have it as 524 but 524 is illustrated with another profile. So for example 5./ Pz.Rgt.SS-Panzergrenadier Div, Grossdeutschlan No 524 Winter 1942/3, Eastern Front, Krivoirog-Kirovograd - the number 5 is not a scheme number but the company number followed by platoon and lastly the vehicle number.
  19. Having just got some bagged armour kits courtesy of @G-IAIN been doing some searching. One is the Esci Bishop, 8044, which has no paint guide. and looking for images found this which looks a very un British scheme this look to be another shot Tunisia? ah, here http://panzerserra.blogspot.com/2021/07/bishop-ordnance-qf-25-pdr-on-carrier.html says 1st Army - 1st Parachute Btn. at Le Krib 6 March 1943 - Tunisia SCC2 with Light Mud? Or actual mud? This one is listed as Sicily, SCC2? evidently same unit the kit has decals for the above scheme. the decals have this WD number, I have seen a few of this Light Stone? @Mike Starmer @Kingsman Thanks in advance
  20. I've had limited success with F-RSIN kits in the past Dave so it's nice to see that at least the Viscount is one of their better ones. Especially in the BUA livery. With so many nice schemes available I may have to get one if your results are anything to go by. All the best Chris.
  21. MRP have both colours in their range specifically for the GT40. They also do the same for Porsche in the Gulf scheme. Chris.
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