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  2. These kits do look nice Andy, I'd have a go with me he zimmermit.
  3. Hi Pete I could pop a wanted post on the board for you, I'm not sure if that's allowed, but I'm sure someone will soon let me know if it isn't ! cheers Pat
  4. Hi, here's my Tamiya Hayabusa. It was painted using decanted Tamiya spray cans. Hope u like :) Best regards Rune Haugen Norway
  5. Well, as promised over on the YRF-84F Build Thread here are the finished pics: Again, thanks to fellow modeler Bill Dye, who inspired this build. As usual, it's not perfect, but it's better than the one I had before... Ed
  6. Driving along Lytham front this morning saw a lovely MG Magnette it was in really good nick. ATB Jim
  7. just beyond Nether Wallop (surely the best place name in the U.K.)
  8. So believe it or not I have!
  9. Hi Atom.uk Great that you will be joining us, I shall add you to the list. Please feel free to post a picture of the kits either here or in the Frog GB, do you know which destroyers they are ? Cheers Pat
  10. Hi Chewbacca Sorry to hear you won't be joining us, but delighted to hear you are going to finish the BULOLO, when it comes to not finishing a Group Build I can compete with anyone ! cheers Pat
  11. Well i have to say i was wondering that myself. I couldnt figure out why they sent them to them if they were not supposed to be selling them? A mistake maybe? Dont know but apparently an Aifix rep had seen "on a forum" someone building one. Strange , but there you go.
  12. Well, back again, with the final installment! The only small decals that I could find in the photos were alas also on the RF-84F kit decals, which were totally trashed -- cracked, pieces flaked off, etc. For the first time in years, the spares box has left me down. Oh well... To recall (or just to inform -- can't remember!), the paint/decal sequence was as follows: 1) Fill, sand and prime w Alclad II Gray primer/filler. repeat as needed until no defects could be observed. Then, 2) Black Gloss Alclad II base, then fix all those defects found, repeating above steps as needed. Then, 3) An all-over coat of Alclad II Polished Aluminum, and then fixing all the myriad of new defects found, and repeating steps 1 and 2 above as needed. Then, 4) Mask some panels with Parafilm "M" and spray second bare metal color, such as semi-flat Alumiinum, Stainless Steel, regular Aluminum, etc., Then 5) Masking other panels with the PM, shoot second, third, etc color as needed. When all the bare metal colors were done, then 6) Spray a thinned wash of thinned Alclad II Aluminum (5% Aluminum, 95% thinner) over the whole model, helping all the metal colors to tone better, killing extreme variances. Then 7) The required areas were masked with PM and for the anti-glare and turtle deck panels, Tamiya tape was laid atop the PM to establish the long, swooping lines correctly, then the PM was cut out (gently) with a new #11 X-Acto blade, running down the edge of the tape as a guide. As indicated earlier, some practice beforehand should be done. Anyway when the needed areas of PM were pulled away, the anti-glare color and the red color were sprayed. Then, After everything had dried, all the masking was removed, and the entire model was given a coat of Alclad II Aqua Gloss water-based paint. This was to let the model be handled easier after this coat had dried, as well as to give the decals a dead smooth surface to adhere to. Also, it added a little protection to the Alclad, in case some of the decal solvents used later got on the finish, as sometimes, particularly with the harsher ones, they eat the Alclad II. Of course, this layer was left to dry overnight. Then, 9) Decals were applied, using Micro Set, which is pretty mild. After being teased into final positions, the decals were allowed to dry about four hours, then Walther's SOLVASET was applied to all decals, and this stuff is tough! From this point, unless there was some tiny and very quick decal adjustment needed, I left the decals alone to dry over night. Once the SOLVASET has been applied, decals become extremely fragile! Then, 10) Another coat of Alclad II Aqua Gloss was applied over the decals (including the strips on the canopy), and allowed to dry. Then, 11) Avoiding the canopy (by either masking or careful aim of the airbrush), a coat of Alclad II Klear Kote Light Sheen was applied, to mostly kill the bright shine from the Aqua Gloss. On the show-type planes, such as George Laven's F-100C or F-104C, this last step would be skipped. Then, and lastly, 12) The anti-glare areas were touched up with a dead flat clear acrylic topcoat, applied by carefully hand-brushing. There, see how easy that was? A LAST AND FINAL WARNING TO ALL THOSE WHO COULD BE WISER THAN I --- AFTER THE BLACK BASE COAT, DO NOT TOUCH THE MODEL WITH BARE HANDS UNTIL AT LEAST THE FIRST COAT OF AQUA GLOSS HAS BEEN APPLIED, IF NOT THE LAST COAT!!! Anyway, after dispensing such sage advice -- which you will recall, I often ignore (to my peril), I'll just move along. After all the paint and decalling was done, I added all the small bits -- landing gear, speed brake, etc. and touched up the wing-tip lights with first a coat of white paint, and then a dollop of either clear red or blue as required. As a last step, I drilled holes into the four marked areas on the older-style F-84 4-hole speed-brake, and enlarged the holes slightly with a tiny square rat-tail file, as these holes were see-though on the real aircraft; this was then mounted the the bottom of the fuselage with the two little actuator struts from the Heller F-84E/G kit. Here's a shot showing the speed brake and the custom nose wheel described earlier: And a shot showing the extra large star and bar insignia on the wings, as well as the 90-degree to the fuselage application of the USAF, which was, on the production models, changed to the more common tangential orientation: That it for the teaser pics. I'll have the RFI link posted in a few minutes, for those interested: RFI Again, thanks to fellow modeler Bill Dye, where ever he is, for inspiring me to build this nice addition to my collection. Stay tuned for the next adventure... Ed
  13. Health & Safety warning...stop sniffing the glue! I must get some to try, for quick glueing, not sniffing. Try the Panzer VII Maus, a bit bigger.
  14. Are you driving a BMW (or Messerschmitt bubble car, even more appropriately!!)
  15. nice kit except i had a bit of problems around cockpit / fuselage area. the landing gear was designed for a tiny person to out together its that finicky. nice big kit and looks well when finished. can also be done in the wing folded version. thanks for looking
  16. Hello, I am working on an Airfix Skyraider and don't really know what the directions are telling me. I have 3 pieces that all look like they go in the same spot. Perhaps one under one of the others. http://104.223.9.243/~jaeonorg/pix/brit.jpg http://104.223.9.243/~jaeonorg/pix/brit2.jpg http://104.223.9.243/~jaeonorg/pix/brit3.jpg I could not insert the pictures but I could the links. If anyone has built a Skyraider (no matter the brand) what is going on down there? I am prepared to just attach one of the larger covers pictured. The gray one has a bevel Thanks for any info
  17. As promised, the wheels changed colour, significantly - but first I painted the tyres using the old 'mount the wheel on a toothpick, place a loaded brush against the rim and twizzle the wheel around, letting capillary action do the rest of the work' method: For those wheels with no handy hole in for impaling with a toothpick, a toothpick was used in conjunction with a blob of Blu-Tac. I then went a bit mad and gave all of the wheels and the lower hull washes with watered-down Burnt Umber. The wheels were then rubbed back a bit and were then given a less dilute wash with Burnt Umber. The result is WAY TOO ORANGEY-YELLOW, but I'll be rubbing them back and re-applying a whitewash. But I went ahead and stuck them in place anyway. Again, note the slightly raised wheel 3rd from left: Once the tracks are on, only the outermost wheels/tyres will be seen really, so the innermost wheels/tyres didn't need precision painting. And under a different light, not as bad as above: And then I went even madder and decided to add the tracks, but not before applying a buff wash to the lower hull. FITTING THE TRACKS First a test fitting - threading the tracks around the wheels and using the drive sprocket to help hold the 'join' together, like so: As it turned out there was too much slack in the track length, so I removed a link. Remember, I said that I usually leave 1mm or so of pin wire sticking out of each link for such times as might want to remove a pin, BUT I don't leave any pin sticking out for those links which can be seen in their entirety, like here at the drive sprocket and those at the idlers. So, here it was a case of having to bend the 'first' (innermost) pin guide right back on itself to expose the pin inside, then grasp the pin with pliers and pull it out. The removed link: FOR THOSE WHO HAVE NEVER ASSEMBLED FRIULS (OR SIMILAR) BEFORE: IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT A LINK AT ONE END OF A TRACK LENGTH IS MUCH EASIER TO REMOVE THAN THE LINK AT THE OTHER END. IF YOU LAY THE TRACK-LENGTH OUT FLAT WITH THE GUIDE HORNS POINTING UP, THEN THE EASIEST LINK TO REMOVE IS THE ONE WHICH HAS ITS WIDEST PART (THE BIT WITH THE LATERAL 'TREAD' ON IT) UNPINNED AND HANGING FREE. THE TRACK LINK AT THE OPPOSITE END HAS ITS 'WIDEST PART' PINNED ALREADY, AND THE NARROWEST PART OF THE LINK IS HANGING FREE. IN THE PHOTO ABOVE, YOU CAN SEE THAT I COULD, IF I WISHED, BEND THE PIN GUIDE STRAIGHT AGAIN AND RE-USE THE TRACK LINK. IF I'D TRIED TO REMOVE THE LAST LINK ON THE OTHER END OF THE TRACKS IT WOULD HAVE MEANT HAVING TO CUT THE LINK OFF WITHOUT DAMAGING THE NEXT LINK - NOT SO EASY OF COURSE, YOU COULD LEAVE 1MM OF PIN STICKING OUT OF EVERY TRACK LINK SO AT ANY STAGE OF ASSEMBLY, AND FOR WHATEVER REASON, THE REMOVAL OF A LINK AT EITHER END IS EQUALLY EASY. ANYWAY.......WHERE WAS I? AH, YES... This was where I intended to pin the two ends of the track-length together - the sprocket helping to hold the end links in place and nicely lined up - so I stuck a bit of pin wire ONLY JUST into one of them: And, offering the other end of the tracks back up to the sprocket again, used flat nosed pliers to make the join. I test fitted the other set of tracks in exactly the same way, but they and they fitted perfectly - the slightly raised wheel on that side taking up the slack. So I joined the tracks. With that done, I then started constructing the turret. More on that later. TFL Badder
  18. Hi guys here are a few pics of my first ever 1/16th figure that i done a few years ago. i have since muddied him and his footwear up a bit more since then. lovely kit to put together.
  19. Some final detail on the hookloader frame (warning: unforgiving close-ups ). This completes the frame as far as I'm concerned. I can now connect 4 hoses in various places, that should do it.
  20. Got some brown and black washes to tone down the white a bit and painted the tracks. I'll let this sit for a few days then go back and spend some time on the tracks and wheels.
  21. yes please I like the two F-16s taxying head on Martin
  22. Will you just look at the state of this WIP, all covered in dust and cobwebs. Hello? Anyone home? Must be abandoned I reckon, wonder if anyone will notice if I nick a few bits and pieces.
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