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  2. Any place is the right place! I'd love a new Vulcan kit.... Even more so if it was a b1 or b1a
  3. Did Desert Air Force P-40s have any equivalent sand/dust filtration system similar in purpose to the Vokes filters used on Spitfires and Hurricanes--or, indeed, the sand filters used on Me-109s and C.202s?
  4. Here's some of the reference material I've been working from. CP 1267 in the "maintenance yard" at La Paz. CP 973 in the background. That's the airframe that has been restored to airworthiness, completely renovated inside as a passenger plane and put up for auction earlier this year. The TAB styling, Here's the subject of my labours Flaps operation reference, There's some great material available when you start looking for it. I'd like to recommend "Legends in their own Time" as a resource.
  5. What have no idea what to enter not being versed with the range, have to see what falls into place via eBay, though have built a couple of frogs this year already, am tempted by the Neptune rebox currently for sale....
  6. Like that gelbbraun colour. Great work on this one, she’s so tiny yet perfect
  7. Thanks Craig, I always think if you like what I’ve done then I’m doing something right. Not blitz building this weekend mate?
  8. Evening All, I have been working on the fuselage nacelle - trying to make a decent gun ring on the nose and add some radiator cooling vents around the front end. The Ca 5 was a trimotor like the earlier Ca 3, which presented the designers with the problem of how to cool the pusher engine at the rear of the fuselage nacelle. The answer was to mount a radiator in the extreme front of the nose and pump the cooling water from the engine to the nose and back again. It does not require a degree in mechanical or thermal engineering to work out that this was not an optimal solution: the type was not a success in part because of the overheating problems associated with the engine mounted in the fuselage. However that may have been I still had to add the coolig gills to the fuselage (and will have to add more later to the booms when I get around to making them). I decided that if I cut and glued strips of 10 x 20 thou strip in the right places and then used a file and glasspaper to shape them I might just get away with something resembling said gills: I have also built up the nose for the front gunners gun ring with a plastic disc which was cut and filed to fit the nose position. Filler did the rest: you can also see the filler around various parts of the fuselage mouldings where trimming and small errors needed correction. When all is primed I am hoping that the blemishes will disappear.... we will see. I decided to apply more to 10 x 30 thou strip and add the ribs to the wings. For those who may not know of this technique (and I am constantly asked about this at model club open days), here is a brief description: I mark the positions of the ribs with a pencil on the wings, tail surfaces, ailerons, elevators, rudders, etc as appropriate. In this case I am using 10 x 30 strip because this was a large aircraft and the ribs would accordingly have been wider. On smaller aircraft I use 10 x 20 thou strip, and on larger scale aircraft I use larger strip suitable for the scale. I cut lengths of strip which are longer than the chord of the surface to be covered. I apply liquid cement liberally along the pencil line and quicly lay a strip directly on to the line and gently press it down with the end of a nail file of other suitable hard, flat tool. When all of the strips have been applied and the glue allowed enough time to dry I check each strip by trying to push it gently sideways. If any section of strip have not adhered properly I apply more cement to the areas which have not stuck down. When the cement is dry and all the ribs are firmly in place I gently rub them along their lengths with fine grade glass paper to take off the sharp edges and give them a rounded cross profile. Finally a couple of coats of primer ensure that any small gaps or blemishes disappear. This photo shows some of the strip being applied to the lower wing and one of the ailerons: the yellowish strip will be under the fuselage nacelle so if it is visible later the bright white plastic surface will not show. Waiting for liquid cement to dry can be tedious so I started to build one of the engines (there will be three eventually). The engines were 6 cylinder Fiat A 12 inlines developing between 200 and 300 horse power on the early variants: later machines had Fiat Isotta or Liberty engines fitted. The differences between the original and later Fiat engines are not really apparant in this scale so I made one using plastic rod of different diameters, strip and bits of sheet - some of the latter was laminated to make the engine block/sump. The components look like this when laid out: and like this when glued together and painted: Only two more of those to make now, but at least I know how to do it so they should not take too long.. The next update will be delayed as unfortunately I have to go on my travels (again) for a couple of weeks. But if you have been, thanks for looking. P
  9. And DVLA local offices occasionally mistakenly registered cars with plates newer than they should have had - know this from personal experience working in DVLA vehicles enquiries and answering quieries from sometimes perplexed new registered keepers.....
  10. Now I don’t claim to be an expert on modelling, brush painting or RLM colours etc, but I do read and research a lot about MTO axis aircraft and I’m pernickety about it too and hard to please. The hataka paints blue line are indeed optimised for brush painting, not a streak in sight. I didn’t like the look of their RLM 79a but once on, i think it is pretty good for the 109 I’m doing just now. It’s certainly the lightest shade I’ve got, and i think i have most of them so if I’m pleased with it, it must be good. Though i have had 3 beers and been at this for 10 hours. I am totally relaxed though, which you can’t buy in this world of stress and worry...we’ll actually you can. 5 kits a week a few decals paints etc and a bit of time,
  11. No problem Tony. I am happy to give them away, not charge between £2.50 and £4.00 like on e-bay, but if it gets to be a large number I might have to start asking for contributions towards postage - my Pension will only stretch so far! Pete
  12. Pft! Fouled again by Martian Hale. Martians use a Stranraer cloaking device. Doesn't work in my native country, though: we bring them down and eat them. They taste like chicken.
  13. I've slept since then. I think BFG cars had slightly different rules.
  14. You sir, are a legend. Thank you so much
  15. Cheers Paul - I thought it might help. Pete
  16. Thanks, Latinbear. It was a very pleasant afternoon. I really enjoyed the forner Army Air Corps aircraft and the P-47 and P-51 display.
  17. Yes, given it's relatively short service and production, there are more schemes than you'd expect. The above colours are the Intrude scheme see you have two... There are plenty of info on how to do this, new blade, go carefully and slowly is the main rule. http://falconmodels.co.nz/howto.html I have not read this before. I'd check about this first. I know you have some other threads already bookmarked, I'll put a @David A Collins and @John Aero as they maybe able to confirm, or deny this point. HTH T PS you need to eliminate the upper wing panel lines too. This has been shown on a build here.
  18. BTW, the top roundel was not applied until June 1942.
  19. Let me go back to the origin of this Brigade inspired scheme. It was first published as artwork in Vanguard 23, 'British Tanks in North Africa' in 1981. At the time very little accurate information about British camouflage policy and the appearance of colours was known. The colours used to depict certain colours, for example Slate, were in that book, nearly black, brown and grey. The Grant showing this scheme is described as being finished in Light Stone, Olive Drab and purple brown. No photograph showing that scheme appears in the book. However photographs of the Grant in question clearly show that the top surfaces colour is not as dark as the background to the WD number which was then generally known to be the original Olive Drab finish. Therefore the top colour cannot be Olive Drab. It was policy to accept US built vehicles and AFVs in the US colour then repaint as required at final destination. This was done in consideration that there was uncertainty as to where a cargo might be diverted in a crisis. In Egypt in October 1941 Caunter patterning was cancelled in favour of an overall colour of Light Stone No.61. US vehicles were prepared for desert use at Tel-el-Kebir depot where they would have been painted according to the current regulation, i.e Light Stone overall. They would have been issued in that colour to 4th A.B. to replace the huge losses incurred during operation Crusader. At the time two ambiguous painting regulations were in force. One stated that Cmds (commands) may apply a single disruptive colour as required. The other similar worded signal stated that Cmdrs (commanders) may apply a single disruptive colour as required. In addition there existed an exaggerated belief in the effectiveness of any sort of disruptive painting. It would appear then that some Brigade workshops undertook to apply a brigade inspired design to all its vehicles. 4th A.B. evidently did so using three colours. But what might those be? Basic colour, that applied as issued but what other colours might be available? Workshops would hold the now surplus and redundant stocks of paint used in the cancelled Caunter design. What were they? Portland Stone, Slate and Silver Grey. Why not use those? I strongly suggest that the top colour on those tanks is Silver Grey. This assertion is based on a photographs of a Grant and Stuart side by side which both show the slightly darker top colour. That colour has the same contrast on B/W images as may be seen on many images of Caunter finished vehicles. The other colour specified for use in 1941 was Light Purple Brown which is a slightly brownish dark Maroon shade. Against Light Stone it has very high contrast and that too fits the contrast seen on images of the Stuarts and Grants in question. One image I have shows the blotches being applied and one could be excused for believing those to be black, so dark it is. Miniart has simple blindly followed the Vanguard artwork. The Airfix Stuart has taken the photographs into consideration but quite why they thought that Humbrol 36 was remotely like Silver Grey I cannot conceive. They evidently did little or no research on that point either. OOT Humbrol 90 would be nearer. The model 'Bellman' is quite inaccurate in pattern, the basis for that colouring and layout is a tank named Deacon which had been burned and has the cupola top areas scorched and smoke blackened after internal fire. It completely lacks the third colour too.
  20. The fighting compartment is looking very good RT - lovely paintwork! Kind regards, Stix
  21. Pat Take your pick:- or Bit rough but then so are the kits! I resisted the temptation to add "out of register" to the bit about the "super accurate transfers" - all my copies for the Firefly certainly are! Entirely up to you - won't be offended if you don't use them but should stand out better when reduced in size, Pete
  22. Lovely set of shots! Particularly like the Chinook images.
  23. Very fast and excellent work my friend. Really impressive how you've got this far with a kit in such a short time, and done a great job of it too.
  24. Interesting photos from your work Ozzy and even if it’s not a lot - progress on your Tiger is progress and is looking good! Kind regards, Stix
  25. I'm sure the rules changed later than that - we had a Mk2 RS2000 on a B- prefix plate .
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