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  2. If by later you mean the F4U-1D canopy without the horizontal framework, you can always mask and paint the framework on it to duplicate the F4U-1A canopy- just remember to paint the interior framework color first. Mike
  3. That's what it looks like to me. The decals are there to do the rear boxart but the instructions paint guide don't mention it. You're a clever bloke, you'll sort it. Stuart
  4. I saw the cockpit built up. enclosed and was wondering if you were going to paint it or not. Now I know and it looks great, nice and clean. Stuart
  5. Good luck will rub off when I shakes hands with you (name that movie!). It was a pleasure to meet you, Cookie! Hope the move goes smoothly.
  6. I'll be using the always pretty good Hasegawa model in 1/48. The NSGr aircraft were employed as night harassment and were rather effective at the job. Pilots were specially trained in instrument flying for their role. They also had some pretty good camouflages and debate still rages about what colours were used. I will be going for the highly camouflaged version too.
  7. It's looking to me that each individual State's ANG has more equipment and firepower than the entire RAF!!
  8. Source: https://www.facebook.com/SilverWingsAircraftModels/photos/a.239230076134740/2929517330439321 V.P.
  9. Hi Dmitry, my Ukranian source which was never wrong, cited same price for Seasprite and Su-25, as 50+ euros range,depending on the boxing, I will be more than happy to be proven wrong. As for the model itself, I have no doubt that it will be superlative..
  10. Very nice! Excellent modelling! Wonder when the Mk-82 switched to conical fuses as they use nowadays! Gwh? Sidewinders look great, but I am not fully convinced by their shape (seaker head and canards)
  11. Hi Francis. That is a really fantastic result!! Your finish, detailing and presentation are all superb!! Very well done! I have the same kit in the stash so I am going to bookmark your build thread so I can refer to it when I build mine....so thank you in advance! Kind regards, Stix
  12. I am just beginning work on the Trumpeter 1:200 HMS Rodney.  This is quite a change after 20 years of building in the 1:350 scale.  So far I have made a start on a diorama in which (if all goes well) the sea bed will be visible.  I have not done anything like this before, so it is a little daunting.  To get a reasonable fit of the hull in the wooden base I have had to attach the propeller shafts, rudder and bilge keels.  The bilge keels have impressed me.  They are long, thin and curved.  Once the inevitable bits of sprue were removed, the keels proved to be very well moulded and fitted perfectly against the hull.

     

    To keep the hull and deck clean and safe during the preliminary stages, I have bought a long storage box from B&Q.  This is high enough to accommodate the hull with most of the superstructure fitted (not sure about masts) and is quite shallow from front to back,  Of course it is very long (about 1.2 metres).  The box is which the kit arrives is enormous and we live in a flat, so getting this sorted has been a big help.

  13. Nice!! Why only for the front wheel ? Any photos for the lower side?
  14. Back in the '80s, the local ATC squadrons provided Farnborough Air Show's 'manpower' for distributing programmes, brochures and various other items around the trade stands - as well as for the organisers, cadets could also be 'hired' to perform similar duties for exhibitors... ...the cadets had to have staff supervision, of course, and I remember spending considerable amounts of time personally making sure Westland's requirements were taken care of - which, of course, had absolutely nothing to do with the "beautiful chopper models" who'd been hired to man their stand for the week...
  15. Nice kit, but needs a lot of dryfitting, sanding and checking for references. All in all, it's a very complete kit, all material is available for any version you can dream off... but you need to make the puzzle yourself... Here's mine in a Belgian Livrey, maybe you can get some tips...
  16. Fuselage glued together, fit ok, a little putty is needed. The canopy is very tricky, it has to be glued together along the center line, so must be done extremly carefully. Cheers Jes
  17. On some pics in 1940 it's not present, so it's well possible the roundel was re-added? On some pics the roundel is very dark, others not so much (pic below does not show the roundel but the line that is present in the previous pics) ON BOARD A WARSHIP. 1940, ON BOARD THE BRITISH BATTLECRUISER HMS HOOD.. © IWM (A 177) IWM Non Commercial License
  18. Hi John. Well I am pleased this one turned out so beautifully after you bailed on my T-55 STGB!! It turned out a real stunner! I've never really been that keen on this scheme on Shermans but, having seen the way you have done this one, I'm going to dig out a Dragon Sherman - that wears this scheme - that I know I have in the stash - sooner rather than later! The finish and stowage on yours looks brilliant! Very well done. Kind regards, Stix
  19. Very nice kit and project and progress!
  20. Ready to get started cheers Jes
  21. Always good for a quote! Helicopter takeoff, " you put on phenomenal amounts of power and it defies all known law and lifts off - it should of course screw itself into the ground!"
  22. The fuselage fits together pretty well, just needs squeezing for a bit while the glue sets. The intakes need a bit of jiggling to get flush in all directions.
  23. Thanks gents ! In the mean time I have added a new rear bulkhead or rather deck bracing. BB Oseberg's foremost and rearmost bulkheads are simply wrong (both in shape and position). The only way I could get my helmsman to hold the tiller was to position his right arm behind his back (the magic sculpt hasn't dried yet so I still have to remove the excess material ). I also had to fill the furrow in the figure's neck and shoulder where the threshing flail was supposed to go. Arjan
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