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  1. Past hour
  2. I was about to make the same..........errrrr........aaahhhhh............insinuation (accusation seems a bit harsh). Funny how things just "go missing", I have a feeling that a check around his work bench, we would find all the "missing" parts, lined up like little army men in formation, he just likes doing things that we mere mortals can only drop jaws over. Can't blame him, if we had the skills, we would be "losing" parts as well. Sometimes I wonder why he buys the kits at all. It looks like the end result is 90:10 scratch/kit. We could probably give him a few parts from our spares box, and he would build a new bird out of shi'ts and giggles! Don't tell him I said this, but watching him work is like being in the viewing room at Harvard medical school, watching a neurosurgeon repair the spinal cord of conjoined twins in preparation for a separation procedure. I think it will go to his head. Cheers, Anthony
  3. So now you’ve moved on in life, try the 1/50 scale kit. You can add so much more to it and would compliment this one nicely. Steve.
  4. Praise indeed from a pair of master modellers Thanks Kev
  5. Well I’m almost turning into the home straight with the “HMAS Vendetta” build. I’ve in counted a few problems with this build. 1, the tubs for the twin 40mm Bofors are small. I didn’t bring any extra tools or with me for this trip. 2, No brass for the catwalk between the Fw’d superstructure and aft superstructure. 3, I think the two motor launchers are a little bit over scale? 4, the mast is not straight due to the fw’d radar is not centred and this did give me a problems at assembling it. Over this build has been enjoyable, considering the instructions were a little on the basic side. I think if I’m back in Sydney next time I’ll try and pop down to her sister ship HMAS Vampire to do some measurements and take some photos for future reference.
  6. Yes, and unusually I would take the Academy over the Hasegawa. They are both good representations but the Academy was easier to build square and true.
  7. What a good save. It’s massive or they’re really small bear bottles, err correction just seen your location - they’ll be big bottles. where the refuelling probe from - scratchbuilt. Steve.
  8. Nice job Steve, but......... Have you my same problem in exhaust zone? This is right side: correct Here left side, see the end edge ! Missing a trapezoidal piece of plastic, perhaps problems during printing
  9. Looking forward to seeing this Dave, a GREAT choice of subject to my unbiased eye. Steve.
  10. Wow, its a monster, a good looking monster for all that though. Steve.
  11. Thanks Dave, I'll set up Build Thread markers over the week before the GB kicks off Thanks Alan
  12. This should be fun, I am definitely along for the ride! You are very different than me, that is for sure. But back when I was building in the 80's, the only available paints were the testors enamels and information on how to fix a mucked up paint job were non-existent, we didn't have the internet. I remember doing an F-15 back then, and messed up the paint job something fierce. I tried in vain to remove the paint with spirits, but it just became a gooey mess. So in typical viking fashion, she took a final flame flight out my back window! Back then, unless you had money to buy magazines (I could hardly afford to buy the tiny paints, much less a magazine) modeling was a learn on your own experience. I would get tips from my dealer, but that was still of limited value. I had no patience back then as well, so when things went south, it usually always meant a quick death, when I think about it, I am surprised that I ever got a kit fully built at all! Good luck in your do over! Anthony
  13. Hello all I want to fit a SAC D704 Buddy Pod to my 1/32 Hasegawa A4 Skyhawk but am having trouble finding drawings/detail photos of how it mounts to the centreline pylon - lugs, connectors, pipes etc - also correct positioning of the pod in relation to the nose gear - it looks pretty close to the rear of the nose wheel bay in what photos I have been able to find but again I have found no drawing that gives an exact location - any info would be appreciated. thanks Chris
  14. The mud-flaps are a bit of a pain to fit as the surface details on the rear plate and the details of the mud flap fixing points do not actually correspond. It's a case of 'does it fit here? Yes, Does it look right? No. Does it also fit here? Yes it fits there as well. Does it look right? No. Let's try it here then..... etc, etc' Anyway, they are on and so are a few other bits and pieces. I went for the long starting handle (bottom right) The circular feature beneath the handle's grip gives access to the engine's manual start. The tracks look to be on 'wonky' but that's because there's a tiny bit of slack in them which I didn't 'take up' at the sprocket end, so they are hanging at this end. I I did say that I was going to replicate the damage to the Tiger in the period photos - well, I am, but the damage will be transposed to the RHS of my Tiger. That makes so much more sense! TFL Badder ps. I gather Flickr is 'down'. Anyone know what the issue is?
  15. Italeri 1/48 C130K - Markings are mainly Xtradecal I flew in XV185 during an RAF Lyneham family day back in the eighties. They used to take the kids up for a flight and how some were not lost out the back when the ramp came down is still a mystery. Current status on XV185- scrapped This was built over a decade ago and was badly damaged in transit from the UK to Oz. Not flak as such, just over stressing the airframe due to my packing. Fuel tanks detached, fin partially detached. Now partially repaired with undercarriage raised. It's a bit big so stands on its side on a shelf in the den. Today has been such a beautiful autumn day I thought I would give it an air, although I found the direct light a bit harsh for photography.
  16. Ducked out for a couple of hours, but now I'm back at it. Here's the fuselage mostly together. The little pieces that make up the cowling/inboard end of the wing leading edge were a pain to get in, but with enough wrestling eventually made it into place. It's also time for lunch! Thanks to @emily for making a run to the bakery.
  17. Looking very nice from here, love the paintwork
  18. I wouldn't have thought that an aircraft would be repainted in the Maritime Scheme for the short duration of an operation like the Channel Dash, repainting even just the uppersurfaces of a Bf110 is a pretty big and involved job and would not be undertaken lightly. As well as 'permanent' black the Luftwaffe did have both black and white water-soluble paint available for use in night or winter operations and it could be your black 110 was repainted in this, with any original paintwork showing beneath most likely to be either RLM70/71/65 or possibly RLM74/75/76. Cheers, Stew
  19. Amazing work here Stuart - quite inspiring really - Will it be a clean trawler or a very used one..? Brilliant work all round.
  20. Today
  21. Awesome. that is more than sufficient excuse to step away from modelling for a bit. Steve.
  22. I got back from my trip to Los Angeles last night, and today took stock of where I am in this build. When I last left off, I had sprayed my engine pods with Xtreme Metal's polished aluminum, chosen simply because the name sounded appropriate. To be honest, after it was on I felt that shade was a bit too dark and, since I will be applying a variety of metallic shades and colors before I'm done, I decided to do a little experiment. I bought a box of plastic spoons and painted a bunch of them with Tamiya gloss black from a rattlecan. I then sprayed each spoon with a different Xtreme Metal color from my shelf: Here is the result of my exercise, arranged from lightest to darkest shade as best I can determine using my Mark 1 Mod 0 eyeball: (Notice that a couple of these metallic shades have a distinct brownish cast, in particular, "duraluminum" and "pale burnt metal". Likewise, although it doesn't show up in the above pics, "stainless steel" is slightly bluish.) Now able to do a more intelligent paint selection, I decided white aluminum is a better choice of base color for my Hustler. (This is, in fact, the same color that Mark Inman used for his build, which I referenced in my first post in this WIP.) So, I gave my engine pods a quick coat of white aluminum, and if I'm happy with how they look once the paint has dried, tomorrow I'll start applying other shades to the pods.
  23. Well, this week I took the Canadian Hornet as far as I could without decals (which still haven't arrived yet). I finished painting the sidewinders: Painted the tail hook by hand (which was much easier than the Testors kit because there is a raised line between the stripes on the Hasagawa kit) and I dirtied up the landing gear doors a tad with a water color wash followed by dull coat, a little bit of black Tamiya weathering pastel, and more dull coat and I put it on the shelf to wait for the decals to come. When they do, I'll get right back into it. In the meantime, I started a B-57B Canberra. Take a look! Hopefully it will go a little faster than this project, which I've been at since March 8th!
  24. I used my smallest brush (which is a 18/0 spotter) and very carefully painted along the edge. I had a couple things working in my favor: 1) the kit had well-defined, wide edges and 2) I was painting enamel over glossy lacquer. So, where ever I slopped over the edge, I could take a tooth pick and scrape it off the white without any damage. You could probably put a clear acrylic coat on before painting the red to get the same effect (scraping off any slop). As a matter of fact they are! I only have one. I don't remember the letter, but it's the set with black, brown and white in it. I really haven't needed anything else yet. Thanks for the tip about Amazon -- I may not need pastels right now, but my Dad will likely be buying some soon, so I'll let him know!
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