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Yea, I used these: https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/products/nuts-acorn-nickel-plated-1-0-mm-n001n Then I cut a small piece of 1MM threaded rod, inserted in and then glued into the part with CA. I believe Knupfer offers those acorn nuts for cheaper actually come to find out. Ive seen some people also use small washers. I wish I would have.
just a caveat to the last post - they recommend you do NOT use poly with their primer. But try everything else louex2 recommended, including reading Mission Model's official FAQ page. I've used the black and white primers and have not had any clogging issues with a 0.3 airbrush. For primer they recommend 4-6 drops thinner for 30-40 drops primer. Start with those ratios and see if it flows better.
Yeah my muffler is already finished and painted. Those will be the next pictures that I post. When I soldered the brackets on the straps I got a little too much solder on and I had to file off the excess. I was slightly concerned about soldering the straps to the lip but it all held together fine. I do have a question about the studs and nuts that you used on the back of the cam covers. Where did you get them? I checked mine tonight and I had to use the stupid tiny watch screws supplied with the transkit. Looking at them, it’s as if I didn’t do anything there because they just disappear.
Looks great! The -A is the one project I'm waiting to tackle when I feel my skills are up to the task. Did you do your own lighting or get one of the pre-made kits? And how did the decals work for you? Debating whether I want to go with Aztec masking, but I also want to be able to finish one within a reasonable amount of time hah.
Very good build for this Rich. Especially as you did it in such a quick time. Well done for the award. The F14D presumably is the one from last year's GB? In which case well deserved too. Colin
Corsairfoxfouruncle replied to Lawzer's topic in D-Day: 75th Anniversary of the Normandy Landings GBThe 359th received Mustangs in May/June of 1944. So very well could have been olive drab. Let me see if i have any photo's. I will try here, its a great resource for 8th Fighter command. http://www.littlefriends.co.uk/359th-fighter-group/ Dennis Only thing I've found is one profile of a B/C in O/D. No photo's yet, but will keep looking.
Initial paintwork, still plenty to do: Other cockpit components. One area I'm a little confused by is the bulkhead behind the pilot. Based on the resin parts I'm fairly sure that the cutouts are indeed supposed to be filled, probably as extra armor, but I can't find any clear reference of this being done on the real aircraft. There are a bunch of boxes and cables on the back going over the plates so it wouldn't make much sense to cut them out. Speeking of additional armor, I think I'm going to err on the side of no extra fuselage armor, as in the photograph of Rudel's aircraft I've been able to find you can see the fuel/oil stenciling where the armor would have gone, suggesting it was not there. Planning future work, I'll need to replace these crude triangular slabs with actuator rods. I'll probably make them out of brass rod; the vertical part that connects to the flap/aileron might be a little simplified in shape, but I'm not sure of a better way to represent it. I also need to figure out the neatest/cleanest way to cut them off before replacing them without making a mess.
I took a second look at the instructions and the sprues. Both Sidewinder missiles and hardpoints are within the sprue parts. But the Sidewinders and rails (but not the hardpoints) are "blackened" out of the instructions as "Parts not used". And they are not mentioned further on in the instructions. The ventral fin is on the aircraft 7304 (26+44) pictured on the box but not in the painting instructions concerning the same aircraft or F-104G 8102 (23+92). Cheers / André
Looks like a lot of work there in the interior, are you sure that the floor went full width? Some planes of this era didn't even have a floor, e.g. Spitfire and Hurricane. One of these in the stash so interesting to know. Colin
I just did this assembly last night. I chose to do things a bit differently. Im sure it will be quite robust tho! I took a more mechanical route because I didnt feel comfortable soldering the SS nut to the brass. So I sandwiched an additional nut. Also added a touch of epoxy for safe keepings. One thing to note. I also soldered the bracket to the strap H7 while flat, while I was bending it it almost broke at the solder point. FYI.
larchiefeng, Apparently you are much further along than me. You are paving the way! This is pretty much the extent of my build at the moment. I have built the rotors and calipers, but will share once I get into those particular assemblies. I then realized I had to remove the side braces in step 18A just to fit the assembly. Its a tight fit!
I've found the article by Pat Hawkley about building Chuck Yeager's NF-104A in 1/48 scale in the March 2004 issue. It's about model the rocket-assisted near-space Starfighter with the Hasegawa kit and the Cutting Edge conversion set. I havn't found my own issue with that article yet. But what I remember is that it had an (1/72 scale?) drawing of the needed changes to build an NF-104A. The reason why I remembered that article for future builds... https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/product/fsm040301 Cheers / André
The fact that there is not much to assemble, does not make it so outstanding for scale modelling! I would say the opposite. I have been looking to it and I think it will be a nightmare to paint... Also, depending on your skills, the bottom part will be hard to turn into a convincing depth. I have seen the same approach to CMKs engine for Airfix Defiant and I did not like it either.
The holes to be opened up are obviously locating holes for those ventral fins which must be optional. As my knowledge of Starfighters is limited I can’t comment on which aircraft were fitted with these fins. If the jet you are modelling does not have the fins, don’t drill out the holes. AW
Here is where I am at currently with the motor. Many, many hours of studying not only instructions provided by Autograph, but scouring the internet for photos and diagrams. Also the invaluable help from others who have made this journey. You guys included!! Im still working thru the airbrushing and deciding final finishing on the headers at the moment so they are just dry fit.
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