Red Arrow Jag Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Hi guys, Just received Airfix' Hawker Hurricane Mk.1 (stanford tuck) just wondering before I start it: Is it any good? I also have the Revell MkIIb that I may 'cross-kit' a few parts. How easy would it be to make a very early Hurricane? Fabric covered wings etc... any tips on this would be helpful.. If anyone has any examples they could post onto here, phots, links etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Fleming Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I built this one a couple of times many years ago - it's a simple kit, but goes together pretty well (as with most Hurricane kits, you need to make sure the wing is perpendicular to the fusleage). The exhauts are a little crude. As for making a fabric winged one, you would have to replace the outer wing surface with a simulated fabric top and bottom - I did start it, but got bored after about 30 ribs. There have been a couple of resin sets to replace the win Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Test Graham Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 The Sword kit is for a fabric-winged Hurricane. It may be cheaper than a resin wing, and will give you three different prop/spinners too. The Airfix kit is too narrow in the engine - wedge the front apart at the top then fill'n'file back to circular at the spinner. I recall the spinners coming in two versions - too big and far too big. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Arrow Jag Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 I was thinking about resin wings but I am into scratch building at the present (like the seasons this may change....) as for the fuselage witth, I will take this into acount, but If I can get hold of a resin(ah see changed my mind already) RR Merlin III or similar for very cheap then hey I will be busy... again any hints on any companies who make 1:72 merlin engines... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennygman Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Hi mate, See here http://www.britmodeler.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8805 For models of the Airfix and Revell kits both built to the same general degree of incompetence, so you can see what you're getting with each. If you want a Mk1 then pinching parts from the Revell would help I'm sure. I think it's fair to say the Revell kit is superior in most respects, though I understand the canopy is a bit controversial. The Airfix went together quickly enough though, all I added were the decals and some scratchbuilt wheelbays (based on the Revell ones). Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dad's lad Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Here's an engine click here With regards to the choice of 2 spinners, that was the "other" Airfix Hurricane that was buildable as a MkI or Mk II and contained bombs, long range tanks and underwing guns. Hurricane Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris57 Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Hi Magna make a resin fabric wing, it comes with a white metal Watts two blade propeller about £8, from Magna or Hannants, or catch me up at one of the model shows I carry the full range with me. cheers chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Arrow Jag Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 Just been reading about the prototype....may have to make this now I think...we will see. Going to use the interior and wheel wells from the Revel IIb now. I will make a 'build' column but it may take some time due to other business!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Test Graham Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 (edited) dad's lad: OK, you are right about the props. Apologies for memory mix-up. You certainly wouldn't want that particular version anyway. If you've got a Revell kit then careful shortening of the nose (aft of the engine) will give you a better Mk.1 than the Airfix anyway - allowing for prop/spinner and shaving off the crude "fabric" on the rear fuselage. If you are talking about chopping out the wheelwells you're clearly not afraid of a bit of carving. Padding out the Airfix nose is actually easier than fitting a resin (though the result would certainly be less detailed than that one!). Go to the panel line at the front of the engine cowling and cut down from the top through to half-depth. Glue the front part - where it goes to the spinner - together. Stick in a wedge of least 40 thou, maybe 60, I think...it's a while since I did it...to widen the front of the top of the engine cowling. Then add filler to the "shoulders" between the spinner and the top panel. Easier done than said. Edited January 25, 2008 by Graham Boak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Arrow Jag Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 I will certainly try that method, thanks Graham! have been researching the Hurri a little more this eve (well there's nothing on the TV) The Hurricane in the science museum London has 'original' fabric covered wings! so I now have a few photos of this. have also managed to get hold of some plan views so can start building tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thx6667 Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 The Hurricane in the science museum London has 'original' fabric covered wings! so I now have a few photos of this. have also managed to get hold of some plan views so can start building tomorrow. 20 years ago (eek!) I read an article in an (almost recent) issue of Airfix magazine where Chris Ellis was doing conversions on the Hurricane, including an early Mk.I by ribbing the prop from a Matchbox Fury kit. I'd recently got hold of the Aerodata book which Arthur Bentley's excellent plants for the fabric winged Mk.! so I photocopied them, attached them to the kit wings with Spraymount and then cut the rib positions through the paper with a scalpel. The ridges from the cut lines were given a rub over with an old piece of denim and job done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Test Graham Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 Nice tip for the ribs, but I suspect the Fury prop is a bit small in diameter. What no-one has mentioned yet is that the gunpanel access is different on the fabric and metal wings, and so (IIRC) is the position of the landing light - not quite sure about the precise change there. Plus the Mk.1 has a smaller (shallower) radiator than the Mk.II. For the early aircraft there's something a bit subtle about the shape of the under-nose cowling - no re-entrant curve at the front perhaps - and a slight gap between the spinner and the aircraft. Plus no armour or armoured glass windscreen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Arrow Jag Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share Posted January 28, 2008 Well, I have just been practising various methods of replicating the fabric effects on the wing surfaces. (upper only, the lower surfaces will only need a little work as I do not want 'to much' of a sag in the fabric effect. Through practise on old kit wings found in the spares box I have narrowed the methods down to the below: i. filing the ribs into the plastic wing surface (very time consuming, and I tried this years ago...it looked er, poor) ii. thin strips of plastic card glued to the wing surface and then sanded down iii. the wing thinned right down from the inside of the moulding, the rib retail replicated with wire (a framework under the model skin) then heat applied from above the wing to melt (slightly) the plastic around the frame??? (I have thought of using sprue as a frame work but would this melt also? I am thinking that If I can get the wing plastic thin enough only a small amount of heat will be needed....) Anyone tried this method before, thoughts would be very welcome before I possibly destroy a perfectly good hurricane... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggles2000 Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 (edited) I'd suggest narrow strips of self-adhesive tape for the ribs such as celloptape, perhaps using a double layer to acheive the desired thickness. Remember, the effect on the real thing was subtle, unlike that on most kits which can be grossly exaggerated. Then paint up to these ribs using several layers, brushing the first coat in one direction against one side of the ribbing, the next in the opposite direction, and so on until the layers of paint bank up to the ribbing detail to represent the sagging fabric. It's a lot less drastic than some of the methods you sugest and if it goes wrong then the paint can be stripped off with oven cleaner and you can start over again. John Edited January 28, 2008 by biggles2000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Arrow Jag Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share Posted January 28, 2008 That is an interesting method Thanks! simple really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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