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1/48 Harrier T10 "She's a FILLER Queen


Graham T

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Guaranteed to blow you mind, anytime"!

Base kit is the Hasegawa AV8B Night Attack (from which I'd already robbed out the 100% LERX for my GR7). Conversion is the Heritage Aviation set. Instructions are "basic" to say the least with extremely poor drawings that could be of just about ANYTHING. The front fuselage is split in two as per normal with a tub & instrument panels. Some etched HUD's would have been nice here. The rear panel went in fine but the front is problematic, down mainly to the very complicated method of casting on it's block making it very hard to remove & trim whilst retaining it's correct shape. I foresee problems fitting it correctly. Also see problems with the canopy fit (one piece vacformed), you can just make out in the first shot the two plasticard shims I've added where the windscreen will fit. There are also issues with that rear cockit fairing which doesn't sit right & is also "skewed out of line - maybe me but I don't think so. LERX section is such a bad fit that I was sure I'd messed up but again, I don't see how. Tons of filler around here with gaps on the underside that are impossible to treat with milliput so I'm hoping a bit of PVA will do the trick.

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Very intresting, I'll what watch your progess and see how you get on.

looks like you've made a good start.

Have you seen my convertion using the Italian convertion set?.

I've got mine as far as primer, just got to get round to painting the main colour scheme.

This week I made some spare canopys for my project, first time I've tryed this and it worked a treat.

I got the idea from a video posted a few weeks ago, showing how to crash mold plastic parts.

Until I saw this trick I was thinking, how the do I make a spare if it all goes a bit wrong cutting the kit clear parts?

It was a simple task to make spare as my conversion set came with a resin master under the vac form kit canopy.

Shaun.

Edited by Shaun
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Two things as matters progress: firstly, I found that the pilots instrument panel & combing fro the Hasegawa base kit are an excellant fit in place of the item supplied in the Heritage Aviation set so I'm using these.

Secondly, the pylons that are unique to the GR5/7/T10/12 & fit on the outrigger farings seem to be "short shot"; the front ends are there but there's no rear. They don't look to have broken but they certainly ain't right! Does anyone perhaps have these parts from the Hasegawa GR5/7 which they won't be using?

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Looks good, am planning to tackle one of these at some point using the Alitaliane conversion (already have it, just need a base kit!). Not sure which is the better of the two sets, the one I have is good in some areas (ejection seats are fabulous) but the nose fuselage sections are very warped indeed and will require serious filling on the underside.

One thing which maybe you wish I'd not mention, the resin LERX on that kit appears to be closer to the 100% one than the 65% LERX which all T10s use - not sure how right the conversion is in this sense, or whether its just my eyes playing tricks!

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Looks good, am planning to tackle one of these at some point using the Alitaliane conversion (already have it, just need a base kit!). Not sure which is the better of the two sets, the one I have is good in some areas (ejection seats are fabulous) but the nose fuselage sections are very warped indeed and will require serious filling on the underside.

One thing which maybe you wish I'd not mention, the resin LERX on that kit appears to be closer to the 100% one than the 65% LERX which all T10s use - not sure how right the conversion is in this sense, or whether its just my eyes playing tricks!

:shit: but I think you may be right! To be honest I just "slavishly" added the part provided in the conversion without checking refs! Too late now. :confused:

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Steady Graham!

we all have moents where nothing seems to go right..... go and have a drink, a smoke (if you do), give it a few minutes and then come back and think to yourself 'how you fix it' rather than just looking whats wrong.

Be positive mate!!

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Steady Graham!

we all have moents where nothing seems to go right..... go and have a drink, a smoke (if you do), give it a few minutes and then come back and think to yourself 'how you fix it' rather than just looking whats wrong.

Be positive mate!!

What Pez says - and it's sooooo true. Take a step back from it, and come back at your own pace. If it hadn't have been for Pez, my 1/32 Mustang would have bitten the wall by now!

Andy

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I had to virtually cut my bang seats in half to get them to fit in my T8.....the insides are too narrow right?

certainly too wide & probably too long - the shin guards are ENORMOUS, the seats are really a poor representation. This wouldn't matter if going for a closed cockpit but so bad is the canopy fit that I may have to cut & display it open.

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as a mater of concern to me as owner of heritage. ive taken a t10 kit off the shelf, sanded the parts off the block using a belt sander! ( all ive got and time is short!) and done a few trials....

1. reason you cant get the fron i/p in is it should go in before the nose halves are mated together

2. yes upon inspection the seats are a tight fit but again mine dropped in..but yes point taken they're overdue a revamp ( again talked to martin, the old owner and the seats were based on the first of the t10's, he believes they changed after the kit was produced)

3. as discussed the rear fairing is bent...the old resin used by the previous owner is temp sensitive and the bl**dy master has bowed, to correct this i've nearly done the new piece

4. fit of the lerx, again mine seemed to drop in place, looking at your pic, she's sitting way too high, there was 2 small fuselage tabs forward of the wing, rather than grind the lerx i cut them off...this will explain your other problems as mines a tight fit! will try to sort pics out as soon as poss, unfortunately jackie is quite ill again so it looks like i'll miss milton keynes...

5. again as we discussed the instructions are overdue a revamp...this i'll be better able to do when the build is complete.

6. canopy was made using a male master, as with it being more bulbous in the centre and being bowl shaped a female mould wouldnt allow the undercut. but remember the real thing is bowl shaped!

hope this helps alleviates any fears, if anyone needs replacement parts just holler

rgdds all

ian

Edited by iant
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This thing is a hair's breadth from being slung in the bin! The cockpit canopy doesn't fit & the seats (such as they are) don't even fit in the cockpit!! :puke:

Must be a bad week for twin seat conversions - have been working on a Jaguar T4 but just realise I've cut the nose off too far back :( so am having to reattach the nose parts to both fuselage sides, strengthen the new join, fill, then make the correct cut later to graft on the new nose piece :shithappens:

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No pics but coming along. Got the main paint scheme on. I never prime so inevitably, I was left with some areas that needed a bit of attention, including a small "constellation" of tiny pin holes on the front starboard fuselage. The canopy was a poor fit (get it lined up correctly on the port side with the sill, front coaming & rear fairing & it overlaps the starboard side sill by 1mm at the windscreen arch upto 3-4mm at the rear!) so I have spilt it into it's four sections & will display it open; could be a problem as there will be some missing detail on the canopy frames ( I can't scratch build!). The Hasegawa kit windscreen was a perfect fit so I've used that.

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Well she's starting to look like a T10! The conversion provides markings for 20 squadron but I used decals from the MA sheet as I preferred the 4 squadron markings. I tried to use some of the conv set stencils but they disintegrated in the water! Therefore, I used stencils from the Hasegawa GR7 (I've got the MA stencil sheet for use with the GR7). Note lack of seats & canopy; the conv set seats are not good & the seats in the Hasegawa GR7 kit are just the wrong type! I've ordered a pair of Mk10 seats from AMRAAM but they'll probably take a month to arrive. I've cut the canopy into it's component parts with a view to displaying it open as it simply doesn't fit as a closed unit. This means I'm going to have to add a bit of detail to the rails & frames - it won't be brilliant but hopefully it'll look better with something there, however spurious. I'll have to forgoe any attempt at an MDC for the canopies - that really IS beyond me. Currently trying to add the nose sensor glazing & one or two small details. With a couple of Eduard Mirage 2000 & Airfix Nimrods having just arrived, I need to get this one finished!!

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Hell thats looking good.

John.

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It's looking great Graham, Herculean effort there! I'm glad you stuck with it :worthy:

I'll have to forgoe any attempt at an MDC for the canopies - that really IS beyond me. Currently trying to add the nose sensor glazing & one or two small details.

Dave Roof, posting here as Leatherneck Decals IIRC, have/used to have vinyl MDC for the AV-8B. It might work for you too. For the glasing you could use a block of clear resin, if you have it, I used that on the Jag GR.1 I built for the GB.

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:viking:

Edited by hatchet
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