Skii Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 So here goes with some Group C goodness, this is the old Hasegawa kit re-released by Revell late last year. The kit is 'curbside' meaning no engine detail, which is fine as the main focus of display will be the cockpit (through the cockpit glazing) and the driver posed next to it. engine detailing will be concentrated on my other project in this GB Like Doc and Jen I have been plundering the Hiroboy website for paints and laquer, and the Resin driver is a rather nice example made my MSM creations and ordered from Macs' modelling in the States http://www.macsmodeling.com/ - excellent service and a very nice chap too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Be watching this with interest. I got some Zero paint Gulf colours for me GT40, plus an aerosol can of Gunze gloss. But I'm wondering if I should've gone for the Zero clearcote instead. The driver's gonna be a nice touch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Fester Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Hmm... nice! Look forward to seeing this one and to the zero paints performance. Did the driver figure come with any decals or are you going to paint these on? I'm tempted to get a Melandri figure for the next bike build so I'm interested in the finish. Cheers Doc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted January 19, 2008 Author Share Posted January 19, 2008 Hmm... nice!Look forward to seeing this one and to the zero paints performance. Did the driver figure come with any decals or are you going to paint these on? I'm tempted to get a Melandri figure for the next bike build so I'm interested in the finish. Cheers Doc nope - no decals Doc, so the sponsorship part is going to be tricky.. the stripes and colours will be a doddle, but the logos..well I'm going to have to get my thinking cap on about that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanrgb Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 nope - no decals Doc, so the sponsorship part is going to be tricky.. the stripes and colours will be a doddle, but the logos..well I'm going to have to get my thinking cap on about that! Then when you Finish it John send it over to me Then I'll send you my one to build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dswoofie Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Oh Yeah! Group C goodness indeed! Nice choice... Looking forward to seeing how these Zero paints look... seems like a few of you are going for them. Karl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted January 21, 2008 Author Share Posted January 21, 2008 i'm starting with the cockpit - rather rudimentary and the spare 'seat' has got to go, this will be replaced by fuel pumps, pipes, cables and various other bits of kit. first thing to do is cut it out... with a gaping great hole there, time to re-floor the cockpit with plastic card and buy the end of the weekend something which is ready for the allclad aluminium treatment.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanrgb Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 Nice work John ..I'm keeping an eye on your build So I can copy it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share Posted January 28, 2008 Here is the bodyshell primed and ready for paint, this is 2 coats of Halfords primer and a thorough scrub with wet 1500 grit sandpaper until it is lovely and smooth. The last thing I want on this build is any sign of 'orange peel' rough uneven texture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mentalguru Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 I can feel something in me water about this one being good.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanrgb Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Looking forward to seeing the paint on John Oh Where did you get the Rothmans decals from ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share Posted January 28, 2008 I can feel something in me water about this one being good.... cheers Rich, all this surface prep has got to be worthwhile I hope Looking forward to seeing the paint on John Oh Where did you get the Rothmans decals from ?? Hi Sean, - from here GrandPrix models cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponti Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Great start, love the shape of the car, not a roundy roundy fan normally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 Ooops Well......I've managed to completely make a pigs ear of the paintjob on the bodyshell, so I will be soaking this fella in mr Muscle and starting all over again, the decals are also shagged so I've had to re-order them (6 week wait) So This build is going on hold for a few months and I 'll be getting on with my other build in the meantime hey ho :shithappens: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dswoofie Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 oh no! I was looking forward to this one too! Don't leave it too long will you! What happened with the paint and decals then? Karl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 oh no! I was looking forward to this one too! Don't leave it too long will you!What happened with the paint and decals then? Karl. Basically it all went swimmingly - painted and decalled - looking good, however I wasn't having a lot of joy with the Zero lacquer so opted for Halfords clear lacquer - BAD MOVE - ate the decals No biggie, I can strip it and start again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dswoofie Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Oh bugger! not nice at all then. Good luck for next time anyway! Karl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Gypsy Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Skii Posted Today, 11:20 AM Halfords clear lacquer - BAD MOVE - ate the decals I've had trouble with Halfords clear lacquer munchin my dec's as well. I think Halfords have changed the formula & made the clear hotter. I've been told that the clear can react with any residual water & decal set. So after decaling I allow the decals to "harden up" for a few days. Then I wipe the model with warm water on a damp, lint free cloth (J cloth is good) to remove any residue & allow it to air dry. You can cover it if you like but dont let your cover touch the model surface. Then apply your Halfords clear. I've got over the "munchin" problem by very lightly misting on a couple of coats to seal the dec's before laying on the heavy wet coats. It works ok for me, but you do need to be careful when you apply the mist coats. I hope you dont think I'm trying to tell "Granny how to suck eggs" Skii. Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 I've had trouble with Halfords clear lacquer munchin my dec's as well.I think Halfords have changed the formula & made the clear hotter. I've been told that the clear can react with any residual water & decal set. So after decaling I allow the decals to "harden up" for a few days. Then I wipe the model with warm water on a damp, lint free cloth (J cloth is good) to remove any residue & allow it to air dry. You can cover it if you like but dont let your cover touch the model surface. Then apply your Halfords clear. I've got over the "munchin" problem by very lightly misting on a couple of coats to seal the dec's before laying on the heavy wet coats. It works ok for me, but you do need to be careful when you apply the mist coats. I hope you dont think I'm trying to tell "Granny how to suck eggs" Skii. Regards. Not at all Dave - very useful advice and thanks. I think my mistake was to immediately wet coat and not start with a couple of mist coats to seal them, schoolboy error admittedly but there you go, I guess is will be better on the next attempt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Gypsy Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 One thing I forgot to add, allow the clear time to "gass out" between coats. If you dont the clear will go cloudy. The cloudlyness is trapped gass between the layers of clear. It will clear eventually., but it takes a long time. Temprature is important too, too cold & the clear will cloud, this time it may not recover. HTH. Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastcat Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Not at all Dave - very useful advice and thanks. I think my mistake was to immediately wet coat and not start with a couple of mist coats to seal them, schoolboy error admittedly but there you go, I guess is will be better on the next attempt I think Dave's spot on with this one. I've used Halford's Clear Lacquer over several different makes of decals and it always bites if you lay it on too heavily at first. You need to be a bit careful later on too as it can go through the mist coats if you put it on too wet. I tend to rely more on cutting it back to get a good finish, but that's not without its own share of risks. Easy to get carried away and go through the colour coat, especially near edges where the paints a bit thin. Hope you have better luck next time. Yet another Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Sorry to hear of your woes, Skii, really but as you say it is recoverable. I bought a can of Halfords clear lacquer a few years back but have been too scared to use it ! - I'm taking Mr Donkeys' advice to heart and won't be trying it without a lot of practice. You could always build/paint something real quick whilst you're waiting...... Go on, you know you want to. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 Sorry to hear of your woes, Skii, really but as you say it is recoverable. I bought a can of Halfords clear lacquer a few years back but have been too scared to use it ! - I'm taking Mr Donkeys' advice to heart and won't be trying it without a lot of practice.You could always build/paint something real quick whilst you're waiting...... Go on, you know you want to. Ian well it won't be quick, but Ayrton's McLaren is started and build progress wil be posted up soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Fester Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Just read of your troubles Skii , thats bad news. Hope that it all goes ok second time around. Out of interest I've never produced a model with a glass like finish I've been proud of. In the past I have used 3 different ways of clear lacquer for the finish, easiest to apply Halfords clear and I usually dump loads on in one go! Never had them react with decals so far, lucky I guess, but it is something I will look out for in the future. Talking of which Future is another method I use, plenty of coats and it looks pretty good. But by far the best finish I have produced using good old Tamiya X-22, misting a few coats and then a few layers of heavier coats seem to do the trick. I have heard many good things of the Zero lacquer, especially the twin pack stuff. What problems were you getting with it? Cheers Doc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skii Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 Just read of your troubles Skii , thats bad news. Hope that it all goes ok second time around.Out of interest I've never produced a model with a glass like finish I've been proud of. In the past I have used 3 different ways of clear lacquer for the finish, easiest to apply Halfords clear and I usually dump loads on in one go! Never had them react with decals so far, lucky I guess, but it is something I will look out for in the future. Talking of which Future is another method I use, plenty of coats and it looks pretty good. But by far the best finish I have produced using good old Tamiya X-22, misting a few coats and then a few layers of heavier coats seem to do the trick. I have heard many good things of the Zero lacquer, especially the twin pack stuff. What problems were you getting with it? Cheers Doc Hi Doc The main issue is getting a wet coat with Zero laquer, this is probably down to the limitations of my airbrush but I can't get anything other than a rough texture where the paint dries before hitting the surface, even at close range (iwata copy) , so wet coats are tough to achieve - hence the rattlecan which is great at wet coats but crap at misting My next strategy will be mist-coats with Zero lacquer followed by a Halfords wet coat - which I will then cut back with 1500 wet and dry and finally micromesh cloths to get that ultra shiny smooth finish bit of an education in modelling these darn cars n' bikes eh ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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