p-26luvr Posted November 26, 2011 Author Share Posted November 26, 2011 In this series of pictures I am going to try to keep them in the sequence of corps numbers. What I am attempting to do is to show that the deckhouse area behind the superstructure is different on each model. So please look closely at each picture to see the differences. I am not a good photographer so please excuse the quality of the pictures. This is the first corps version. This is the 2nd corpsone. These are the 3rd corps version. I hope that these pictures will be of help in understanding why I like these particular models. While there are a lot of very small parts, the model itself is not really overl;y complicated to assemble for the average modeler Taking your time & following the instruction careful;ly & thinking ahead are of course a necessary part of the process. I have assembled all 3 model in just over 5 weeks. AND AGAIN THEY ARE MY FIRST 1/350th scale ship models. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 The old man here finally had the sense to ask Brian how he goes about painting his ship models. I am quoting his emminently sensible answer verbatim. As I told Brian, I do not want to mislead anyone into thinking my way is the best way to build these models. Maybe these notes will help Iian & others in building these models. I quote Brian; My method of painting ships is to assemble the hull with lower decks, and paint both fully, then build up the structure with parts I have prepainted (where possible ). All the seperate tiny parts are first painted before adding, makes life easier and you get a neater effect. One tip is to first paint the superstructure in gloss and then the decks in matt as you can wipe any mistakes away without any staining. End of quote. If there are any others that have ideas on how to paint these models I hope that you will come forward & explain your method. I want to express my deep gratitude to Brian for his help & guidence. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 I am including this picture to show that I have used the 4 pl;astic parts supplied as kit parts, instead of etch-brass parts. I did this because I think the plastic parts are much less likely to break off from the model than E/B. They are not on the first corps version. There are no placement marks on the hull parts. I used the side views on the rigging diagrams to properly place the 4 parts per side. The 4 parts that I am talking about are the 4 bumps at the curve of the hull bottom. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert26 Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Hi Carl Sorry,but does the etch come with the kit? Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 Hi CarlSorry,but does the etch come with the kit? Robert Strangely it does in some & not in others. The first one I bought, the 2nd corps one did, but the other 2 did not. Each of the 3 versions has a different bonus in it. One has a 46 page booklet in it, all in Japanese & with a lot of pictures, that I presume is a brief history of the ship. Another one has a 1/32nd scale figure of a kneeling crewman with 2 dogs; which are related to the history of the ship. Generally I think that you have to buy the etch-brass. I bought the E/B for the 3rd corps version from Sprue Brothers for 50% off. One of the reasons that I bought all 3 kits is that the first kit had parts for both the 2nd & 3rd corps versions in the ine boxing. And after seeing pictures of Brians model as well I was hooked. The main reason that I am showing all 3 vesions being built at the same time is to show any possible future buyers of the kit that there is a choice of versions to choose from & the differences in the models. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 In addition to the answer above, the etch-brass that was in the first model I bought was appearantly added by the US distributer as a bonus, not by Hasegawa themselves. There is a printed notice to this effect pasted on the front of the box. How many kits were released with this bonus I have no idea about. We all know the old saying about following the instructions when building models. While working on the superstucture of the first corps version I made a mistake & had to correct it before I could continue. I had left off 2 important pieces earlier & had added the etch-brass ladder on each side in the wrong place. As I removed them I wrecked one beyond repair & had to throw it away. Fortunately I caught on to my error before it was too late to fix. The moral here is; CHECK & RECHECK THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE LEAVING THE SECTION YOU ARE WORKING ON. The reason I was able to see my mistake was because I had already done the other 2 models & the placement of the ladders on this model just did not look right to me. I looked at the other models & saw where I had left off the missing parts & had wrongly placed the ladders. I had gotten careless & not checked the instruction sheet to see if I had completed the section before moving on. Old modelers can still learn. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 If you go back to the 3rd post in this thread, there is a picture of the box top that shows the red patch, on the right side, which says the E/B is a bonus by the US distributer. Whether or not other distributers did this I do not know. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert26 Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Strangely it does in some & not in others. The first one I bought, the 2nd corps one did, but the other 2 did not. Each of the 3 versions has a different bonus in it. One has a 46 page booklet in it, all in Japanese & with a lot of pictures, that I presume is a brief history of the ship. Another one has a 1/32nd scale figure of a kneeling crewman with 2 dogs; which are related to the history of the ship. Generally I think that you have to buy the etch-brass. I bought the E/B for the 3rd corps version from Sprue Brothers for 50% off.One of the reasons that I bought all 3 kits is that the first kit had parts for both the 2nd & 3rd corps versions in the ine boxing. And after seeing pictures of Brians model as well I was hooked. The main reason that I am showing all 3 vesions being built at the same time is to show any possible future buyers of the kit that there is a choice of versions to choose from & the differences in the models. Carl T I admire your commitment to this subject Carl-wish I could muster as much-well done Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 Robert 26, I just came off from a search of the internet looking for a source for E/B for the first corps version, I found none BTW, but there is a source selling the second corps version with the E/B with the kit. Type in SOYA ship models, like I did, & you will find several models of the SOYA at various prices. For modelers wanting to do the SOYA in 1/700 scale, Hobby Link Japan has a kit by Fine molds in plastic, for about $28.76 US Dollars. If you look up their site you will find a picture of the model. www.hlj.com/product/INTSMP_06N On the Hyperscale site there is a diorama featuring this model by Valentin E Bueno. It is in an Antarctic setting, & he describes making the diorama. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 This first picture is of the cover for the bokklet that is with the first corps version. See an earlier post for details. This picture & the next one are from this booklet. It is a wartime picture, I think. this view is also from the booklet, & the profiles show the ships wartime coloring. If you look closely at the text you can read the dates 1940 & 1944. When I set the 1st & 3rd corps versions of the models side by side I can see the extreme differences brought about on the ship over the space of just 2 years, between what I am presuming was thje 1st & 3rd voyages to the Antarctic area. Except for the hull you would not know that it is the same ship. Because I enjoy reading a lot of history books I would dearl;y love to know a lot more about this ship. Wartime hazards, Antarctic adventures, Icebreaking dangers, & retirement as a museum. That sounds like one hell of a rip roaring saga to me. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 Since posting the above pictures I have been speculating on the feasability of converting the first corps version back to a wartime model. while doing so I went back to the booklet to further study some of the relevent pictures & profiles. The profiles have what is surely a year date, & possibly a month & day one as well which dates the picture above at Sept. 25, 1945 ( my guess ). Now we come to this picture; It corresponds closest to the top profile above dated at June 4th 1940 again my guess. A little while later on I am going to present what I will call a "what if semi-scale " version of a wartime SOYA for your consideration, once I have mashalled all of my thoughts into a cohesive point of view. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert26 Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Great stuff Carl-cannot wait to see finished fleet Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 I am very often looking for new information about SOYA, & today I came across an interesting snippet that adds to my fascination with the ship. She was on her way to take part in the invasion of Midway as a supply ship, & was called back after the battle was fought & lost by the Japanese navy. I call her what is refered to as a LUCKY SHIP. I realize that this has nothing to do with building these models, but it adds to my inspiration. The main reason that I mention is that by constantly changing how I word my GOOGLE search, I come up with different sources of reference every now & then. Most of the time I get the same things over & over, but there is always a thing or two different each time that I change the wording. AND FOR SOYA YOU REALLY HAVE TO LOOK HARD. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 With these 2 pictures I am going to start my "What if " conversion of this model back to a wartime configuration. These are my ideas on how to go about the conversion. I alert you two important things, I AM NOT A SHIP MODELER, & THE FINISHED MODEL IS ENTIRELY SPECULATION ON MY PART.The first thing I have done is to have the above 2 wartime pictures enlarged until the ship image is 12 inches long, & have had them lightened so that the detail stands out better. The only model suitable to use for this conversion is the first corps one, Hasegawa kit number 40064. As you read along refer to one or other of the above 2 pictures. This posting will only cover the work on the hull. The rest will come in a later posting. The first thing I would do is to trim the side of the formers that you see in the hull; to the correct width for the replacement hull pieces so that they will support the new side pieces. I would determine this width by measuring the distance between the slots on the deck piece., measuring to the inside edge of the slot. These slots are where the upper hull side pieces will fit later. Next, I would lay, but not glue, the upper hull side pieces in place on the deck piece and draw a line along the outside of the hull pieces. This is where you will have to cut that outer part of the deck off. I would cut partially through the deck piece now. I would now glue the main hull pieces firmly together & set aside to let dry fully. I would now glue the modified formers to the underside of the deck piece in the place where they are supposed to be glued & to the inside bottom of the hull, gluing the deck at the same time to just the bow & stern areas. This should give you a good solid piece to hold while doing the following cutting operation. Hasegawa has done an excellent job of showing just where the side pieces are that have to be removed. They are the bulged area on each side. Removing these areas will require slow, patient, exact, & relaxed cutting. You will probably use several blades while doing this part of the model. I would do the whole of the first side before doing the other. I mean by this to add the replacement side piece & cut off the excess deck piece now, & let it all set until fully dry before doing the other side. Then do the same thing on the other side. Now comes the time when you have to remove the bump on the lower bow in order to make the bow straight from top to bottom. And you have to carve away the double bulges on the stern where there are now 2 propellers in order to make way for a single propeller. If you have gotten this far without heaving the model in the wastebasket, we now come to what I consider to be the most delicate part of the conversion. Adapting the upper hull side pieces. If you look at the pictures above as you read this you should easily understand what I am talking about. The front section is usable just as it is. BUT the back section rerquires a lot of very tricky cutting & trimming. A longish U section has to be cut into the top & a few rectangular holes made in the thinned down part. To locate all of these things I would enlarge one of the color profiles to the size of the model & take my measurements from the enlarghements. If anything will break easily it will be in this operation. This is all for now, I will do the upperworks in another post. Any & all comments will be very welcome. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan P Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Carl, actually I would say you are a ship modeller! It's great to see someone attacking a project like this with so much enthusiasm and clear fondness for the subject. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Just a thought... If I were cutting the side sections off/modding the hull - I'd put lower hull together with the formers and fill with polyurethane casting resin and carve back. Time consuming on the carving perhaps - but you'll get a very stable/rigid structure. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Thanks for your comments gentlemen, I appreciate them. I had not thought of doing what you suggested Iain, but it is a good possibility. I will do the rest of this part of my speculations in a day or two. I am hoping that more people that build ship models will join in the discussion on how to do such a conversion so that maybe someone will actually try it. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocketcrazee Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Hi Carl I am enjoying this build looking forward too seeing the finished ships Found this of the Soya http://ww6.enjoy.ne.jp/~iwashige/soya.htm Hope it helps Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Hi CarlI am enjoying this build looking forward too seeing the finished ships Found this of the Soya http://ww6.enjoy.ne.jp/~iwashige/soya.htm Hope it helps Phil Hi Phil, that sure does help a lot. The site has a lot of interesting things. Thanks for giving us the posting. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 I have been doing some writing for the last part of my conversion part of the thread. It is proving difficult because I am going to have to refer to things that should have been done earlier. I am trying to make it all clear & easier to understand. If it is confusing to me I think it will be even worse for you as the reader.Please bear with me. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 While I have been sorting out how I want to do the rest of the conversion part I have come up with a list of the things that I think will have to be scratchbuilt, or cast by using available parts of the kit to make duplicates of. There is far less to be scratch built than I first thought there was. There is the smokestack which is round rather than oval & possibly a bit taller on the wartime version. The entire facing of the superstructure from top to bottom, but not too difficult to do. A verticle piece on each side joined by rectangular strips of plastic seperated by a few thin strips in each opening. The front mast will have to be duplicated on the rear lower deck along with 4 of the small winches placed around it similar to the front one. These winches can be moulded using the kit ones as a pattern. The 2 gun mounts on both the bow & stern areas, & the base for the searchlight on the top rear of the main deckhouse. All of the rear decks are supplied as part of the kit. They only need to be carefully measured & cut in order to be used. The top deck for the main deckhouse will need to have the hole where the helicopter hanger is being removed & replaced. The hole for the placement of the rear mast will have to be drilled in the lower rear deck. Old style boat davits will have to be made. Several cowl vents will have to be moulded using the kit ones as a pattern. If you want extra deck cargo you could duplicate a few of the landing craft as supplied with the kit. The cargo hatch covers for the rear deck could also be moulded using the kit parts. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocketcrazee Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Hi Carl In your quest for more info on the Soya I came across this chaps model of the Soya. Hope your up for rigging your fleet http://vips.sakura.ne.jp/newpage14.html also pasted å®—è°· into google search engine and then clicked on images Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Brilliant link Phil - great inspiration - and used your Japanese search term and came up with this - which is along the lines of what I want to do with mine - albeit waterlined Just about to re-start my build as part of the KUTA. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocketcrazee Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Brilliant link Phil - great inspiration - and used your Japanese search term and came up with this - which is along the lines of what I want to do with mine - albeit waterlined Just about to re-start my build as part of the KUTA. Iain Hi Iain Checked your link What a great diorama, oh well one day I might aspire too that quality of work Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p-26luvr Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Hi CarlIn your quest for more info on the Soya I came across this chaps model of the Soya. Hope your up for rigging your fleet http://vips.sakura.ne.jp/newpage14.html also pasted å®—è°· into google search engine and then clicked on images Phil A beautiful lineup of the model in pictures. Thank you very much for the link. I plan on doing the whole thing on all of the models. Carl T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now