Kallisti Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 (edited) So here is my build thread and we'll start with the box and sprue shots: Its the ICM kit and I've added the Spirfire Mk VIII part 1 decals from Barracuda which contains two examples from 152 Squadron but I'm not sure if I'll do one of those or another from the squadron. There is a good history site for 152 Hydrabad Squadron here. I've read good things about this kit but its the first time I've seen it, so here is the sprue shot. At first glance it looks impressive with different canopies to present it canopy open or closed. It has an engine and its possible to display the guns in the wings. However I'll be building it in flight - or rather my aim is to build it having just taken off. So the thing you then realise is there isn't a pilot! Thankfully there is one left over from a Tamiya Spitfire Mk I I did earlier in the year for a Battle of Britian diorama (shown in this thread) which you can see in the top right of the pic. He's in full flying gear and I'm not 100% certain that SEAC pilots would have been so heavily wrapped up. Maybe someone here knows better? Anyway, I've also ordered a new seat plus engine exhausts from Ultracast and I've already got some Spitfire seat belts in the spares box. Looking in more detail at the sprues however, there are numerous sink marks visible, particularly on the fuselage tail and on the wings. The worst ones are on the upper wings just forward of the ailerons, so they'll be fun to fix! Any suggestions as to the best way to do this or is it a case of fill, sand and re-scribe? There are also numerous stress marks on the backside of the ejector pin marks but I guess these will cover up with the paint. I'm also going to do something with the props, making them appear animated since it will be flying. I'll be doing some experimentation on this to get a good effect. So the work starts here... well as soon as I finish the current build... Edited September 8, 2011 by Kallisti Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris FFZ Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Nice choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Hi Good choice as the ICM kits are probably the best, shape-wise. Sink marks are fill/sand/re-scribe where necessary unfortunately. You will need to add blanking plate backers for the exhausts as I think it is impossible to fit the engine covers AND fit the engine. You will also have to fuss about with the spinner and backing plate as these are dsigned to attach to the engine too. From memory the underwing radiators are a very tight fit, so get these sorted if you intend to fit after painting. Whichever wing tips you choose, you may want to dry fit and sand as you will end up with an ugly step otherwise. The finished product is worth it though as it is a beauty. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidelvy Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Good choice as the ICM kits are probably the best, shape-wise. Andy I think the main criticism is that the fuselage spine is too narrow. The fact that it has been designed on the assumption that you will always use the engine (which is the wrong one for a MkIX) makes it a bit of a fiddly kit to build. I have tried twice and got into difficuly both times. However, I've seen posts that show that more competent modellers can get over these difficulties. It seems that the main source of problems is that the firewall is a little oversize and so widens the fuselage with the result that the engine cowlings won't align. It does make a fine looking model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 This sounds like you are doing things the hard way with this particulat kit. Best of luck though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 I think the main criticism is that the fuselage spine is too narrow. The fact that it has been designed on the assumption that you will always use the engine (which is the wrong one for a MkIX) makes it a bit of a fiddly kit to build. I have tried twice and got into difficuly both times. However, I've seen posts that show that more competent modellers can get over these difficulties. It seems that the main source of problems is that the firewall is a little oversize and so widens the fuselage with the result that the engine cowlings won't align.It does make a fine looking model. Actually the firewall issue is a very real one - yes it does need snading and dry fitting to make sure the fuselage doesn't spread Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldhouse Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Interesting Choice !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted September 18, 2011 Author Share Posted September 18, 2011 (edited) I've been experimenting with prop-blur effects while finishing off my current build but sadly my camera is having some issues. During our office move a couple of weeks ago, I found an old discarded screen filter which used a plastic screen with some sort of black transparent layer on it, possibly polarised, so I salvaged this as I though it might make a good "spinning propeller". I managed to get hold of a circular cutter at the Farnborough show yesterday and spent most of yesterday evening trying to cut a 3.4 cm disk out of this stuff without the cutting lines going astray. After 6 attempts I got one cut to my satisfaction (thankfully the piece of plastic was about A3 sized!) by putting masking tape over the whole square section I was using and cutting through that very gradually. I then scribed another line 3mm further in and removed that masking tape so I can paint the yellow propeller tips. One idea I had was before I masked the plastic, I taped some 1000 grit wet n dry paper onto the work surface and span the plastic over this to give the surface a set of light concentric scratches that gives an impression of rotation. We'll see later if this looks effective or not! Next job was to slice through the spinner at the appropriate point and fill the holes where the props would normally have been seated. I've sanded the filler down and just sprayed some white primer onto the pieces, so when thats dry I'll paint the spinner white as is fitting for the Spit I'm modelling and will fix the spinner parts to the disk. When the camera is working again, I'll post some pics... Edited September 18, 2011 by Kallisti Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted September 18, 2011 Author Share Posted September 18, 2011 So as promised here are some photos now the camera is working again... First the plastic I salvaged: You can see several failed attempts there where the cutter ended up cutting inside the previously scribed cuts and also earlier attempts with the masking tape. So this one was ALMOST good enough but as I was putting the yellow on I found some faults on the cut so abandoned it. Then I got this one which you can see has the circular scratches from the 1000 grade added. It was only on looking at this photo that I noticed the straight scratch on the surface. At first I thought it was something behind the disk but sadly on close inspection there IS a straight scratch on the surface.. .sigh This has the yellow porp tips added but it looks too bright so along with the scratch I think I'll have to try again. Next time I might try Tamiya clear yellow for the prop tips... Anyway here is the spinner cut, filled and partially sanded and primed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Keep at it Kallisti! I admire your determination to make this idea work. Looks promising too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 Started work finally... First off the cockpit: Pretty much standard fare for a Spitfire, nothing special, although I am using a mud-brown coloured wash to represent the mud and dust that was common in India/Burma. I'm not fitting the engine so I'm leaving out the difficult firewall and will just rely on the cockpit frame and the engine covers and nose panel to keep the shape of the front of the aircraft. This avoids any of the known awkward fit of the ICM kit. Having a few fit issues already however. Found a lot of flash and in a couple of places the fuselage didn't match up properly, so putting some filler in early before I join this up. Tail wheel cut outs have been removed in preparation for the doors - they will be open in this model as it will have just taken off. I've got a pilot figure from a previous Tamiya Spitfire and he's being painted up with a khaki outfit as befits the sort of things worn out in the tropics. He'll be mostly hidden in the cockpit although the canopy will be shown open. Need to have another bash at the propeller disk again when I can get hold of some tamiya clear yellow to use on the outer 3mm to represent the propeller tips. I'll hopefully find time to get into the shops at the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Good stuff. I like your 'joined up thinking' such as the choice of red mud for the weathering in the cockpit and the open canopy even though in-flight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris FFZ Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Interior looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted October 1, 2011 Author Share Posted October 1, 2011 Progress: Been a little distracted the last week or so but its coming along... Pilot in his seat and in the fuselage: I've used some Eduard PE Seatbelts I had left over from my BoB diorama. I've left out the engine so had to blank out the area for the intakes which are Ultracast resin ones. in the photo they have a initial coat of Tamiya Metallic grey, they'll get a rust/burnt treatment at The weathering stage. Some fillter was needed at various joins in the fuselage and the slots for the tabs for the tailplanes needed extensive enlarging. Next comes attempts to fill some of the worst of the sink marks, but this kit seems to suffer all over in this regard. This shows the third round of filling and sanding, ugh! and finally for now, the air intake and the undercart legs. If you look closely at the top of the legs, you will see my surgery that will alow me to display the Spit with undercart half-raised as its just taking off... This ICM kit is not good, lots of flash and those awful sink marks, however I'm enjoying the challenge it provides! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Coming on nicely. I hope the filling and sanding isn't too onerous. I note that the wheels will be coming up at slightly different angles, now there's forward planning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 All that sanding and filling will be worth it - it makes a great looking Spitfire VIII when it's all done, I promise! Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 Yup, every picture or film I've seen of Spits taking off the wheels come up at different rates. Most of the times I've seen (yes I have been counting!) the starboard wheel tends to raise first followed a bit behind by port: eg So thats what I'm aiming for... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Yup, every picture or film I've seen of Spits taking off the wheels come up at different rates. Most of the times I've seen (yes I have been counting!) the starboard wheel tends to raise first followed a bit behind by port: It's a very pronounced difference in that particular photo. I hadn't realised it wasn't a random difference. I'll remember that just in case I copy the idea. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 (edited) Progress: Wings on - reasonable fit, most of the sanding caused by glue blobbing up in the joint. The worst bit was the joint of the fuselage at the trailing edge of the wing. There was a huge gap that needed filling. It was a shocking fit IN the above photo I am about to fit the gun covers, you can see the sprue added inside the gun port to support the cover and on the right the styrene padding add to the underside of the covers to help them sit at the right height. This was a tricky operation, but went fine. Underside needed some filler around the intake and the rear joint: Rear wheel and doors added. Since this was taken its been "muddied up" a bit Undercarriage legs painted and weathered. I didn't add any extra details on as they will be partially retracted so won't be so visible. Ditto with the wheel wells themselves. Wheels assembled, note the extension to make it look more realistic. The covers were obviously shortened in the model to make them work when the wheels are down, but since these will be partially retracted, there was a gaping hole which needed filling. and finally in this update, we have a base! Visited Oxfam and picked up a stack of old picture frames for a fiver. Slap a bit of plaster of paris in, colour it up with raw and burnt sienna acrylic paints, add a 3mm brass rod for the support and give it a coat of Kleer to make parts of it look wet. Wondering if I shouldn't add a little bit of vegetation down the side to give it a bit more colour... Edited October 6, 2011 by Kallisti Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldhouse Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 Very nice work so far especially on the Cockpit !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dahut Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 (edited) My favorite way to portray an inflight model was what I like to call the old "Pat Hawkey" method. Some of you old timers may remember Pat from his features in Fine Scale Modeler back in the 80's and 90's. He was well known for his presentation desktop models, built on contract. Most of those that I recall were jets of one kind or another, but he did prop jobs too. His method of portraying a spinning prop was very unusual - he simply left it off. He would fill and smooth the spinner or hub and simply attach it sans blades, celluloid discs, fancy photo-etch 'whizzy fixies,' etc. His theory was that the only truly realistic spinning prop was, well... a spinning prop. Anything else looked too contrived and actually took away from the desired effect. He left it to the mind's eye to make the connection of a an inflite prop and the clean effect he achieved actually worked pretty well. Here's an example of his work... And heres a bio piece on Pat with link to him ... http://www.milartgl.com/models/models.htm Edited October 8, 2011 by dahut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 It's coming on strong there. It's going to be very dynamic when it's done. One thing though, it may be the photography, but your base seems very shiny and I wonder if a more satin finish would look more 'real'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 Thanks for the responses, yes Don the base is supposed to be a bit shiny to represent wet mud but I've overdone it a little. It will get a flat coat over most, just leaving a couple of "wet" puddles... As for the spinner, here is the finished item I used Tamiya clear yellow on the edge to retain the transparent appearance and used the same technique I worked out in the prototype, spinning it over wet and dry to give its the circular streaks. This next photos shows one of the risks of dealing with this material... fingerprints!! I've got some cotton gloves that I used earlier while handling it, but I obviously need to give it a bot of a polish to get rid of the marks that have appeared since... Rest of the model is pretty much built. Earlier this afternoon I masked and sprayed the underside using the Tamiya AS-32 Medium Sea Gray (RAF) can I bought at the end of last year for the 1:32 Spitfire, and now waiting for it to dry. The upper surface camo will have to be brush painted since I used up the Tamiya rattle can of RAF green on the BoB Spit and Hurricane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 As for the spinner, here is the finished item Very interesting idea. It's fighting you every inch of the way, isn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kallisti Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 I WILL beat it into submission though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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