Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Sign in to follow this  
flibble

Noob Build #2 - Tamiya Repsol Honda RC211V

Recommended Posts

Hello folks, here is the build for my second bike. The first one, and my review after not modelling for a long time is somewhere else in the forum (ZX 14).

Here's what I'm building:

repsolbox.jpg

First Impressions:

- Very, very different to the ZX 14 Build

- Looks much more difficult than previous bike

- Colour mixes instead of straight tamiya colours is going to be a challenge given how much re-painting i end up doing

- The exterior is high gloss metallic blue and I have no idea how Im going to get that finish

- The bike itself looks awesome, so hopefully it will look great when done. I think my ZX 14 turned out ok, but it's not an attractive bike (6 bug eyes, a bit lazy in the styling department).

First Things first:

- Read the instructions and built a painting plan, basically I have all the bits primed on the sprues but then separated out in little trays so I can airbrush them at the same time (this probably seems pitifully obvious, but is a big upgrade for me!)

- See below the tray post priming, before proper painting.

tray1.jpg

... More to follow but wanted to get the thread up and running!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

Ur first build was very well done. Ur going great with the right depth of primer. The rear swing frame and main frame are very well chromed by Tamiya. Just touch up with X-11, it will cover the scrapping for cement and spure marks.

I had done a LCR Honda earlier nearly the same except for clutch covers, exhaust, front forks. A few points u can highlight are

1. detail clutch painting, front fork painting, brake calipers, chain and chain sprocket.

2. exhaust pipe heat staining.(once alclad II is on use clear blue, smoke with fine airbrush)

3. adding of brake pipe at levers and reservoir.

Is there a decal for wheel rim red circle or u have to paint?

Cheers,

rishi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good there Flibble, mind if I pull up a chair & watch while you build?

I'm a huge Moto GP & Valentino fan & can't wait to see the big man on a 1000cc Ducati new season.

Thats good advice Rishi. :cheers:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey folks, this kit is kicking my bottom! :violin:

Compare to my now much loved and missed ZX 14:-

ZX 14 Kit Engine Build

Number of instruction steps: 1

Number of Parts: 16

Number of Paints: 5

Number of Decals: 3

RCV211 Repsol Wotsit Engine Build:

Number of instruction steps: 2

Number of Parts: 28

Number of Paints: 8, with one "mix it up and guess"

Number of Decals: 3

Thus, I feel most righteous and medically accurate in concluding that Shunsaku Tamiya must be a sadist, hell bent on making me and the cats write a new book called the big book of swearing every day.

Thus far I have built "half" the engine. There has been much fur loss in the stress. I decided to be clever (although I mostly blame the cat for this one) and concluded that the X31:X56 mix is probably a yellowish silver dark colour, and that instead of mixing I can just find a colour like that from a different brand! aha! sheer genius - how you like dem apples Shunsaku! :rambo:

Sadly, I bought what looked like a dark metallic bronze, but actually turned out to be diarrhetic yellow. Cue soaking, scrubbing and finding that it won't come off, then re-painting. On box 1 of the instructions. I can't even look at the rest of the instructions they are too terrifying.

Here's what it looks like with Box 1 "done":

engine1.jpg

engine2.jpg

engine3.jpg

Im hoping that with a wash it will look a lot better. Off to think of a happy place. :grouphug:

Chris.

Edited by flibble

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The engine is correct in color. The no of paints makes u crazy, but finished engine is very detailed. the way u feel now is same what happened to me while WIP of LCR honda.

Cheers,

rishi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello folks,

Rishi - the wheel trim is decals and looks fiddly as heck :( also there are some special white decals which were separate to the rest of the decals for going onto the tyre rubber, but no mention of them or how to apply - any ideas? Is your LCR build on the board? I couldn't find it to take a look at it.

Update: Engine is done :footy:

Horrible, horrible, horrible is how it has gone. Lots of repainting but it is finally complete. Taken a long time and been frustrating as its been so much "non-fun" that i've not spent many hours on it in the past week. Still 1 week in and the engine is done. I think it desperately needs a wash to weather it - any advice? My normal approach would be some black enamel in white spirit, very weak all over, what do you think? :hmmm:

I guess what keeps the old spirits up is that I do really seem to be improving, here is my last engine:

engine-1.jpg

and here is this engine, pre-wash. Also, I have not done Alcadding yet so it's airbrushed tamiya metal colour and it didnt quite work / doesnt quite look as truly metallic as the alcad finishes do, I guess that's why they to them! Cheers for any other feedback :)

engine4.jpg

engine5.jpg

Finally, while I was painting this beast, Rufus was in a state of near zen in the Herb Patch in the garden. Hopefully I can one day find this level of peace on a build :deadhorse:

zenrufus.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rishi - the wheel trim is decals and looks fiddly as heck :( also there are some special white decals which were separate to the rest of the decals for going onto the tyre rubber, but no mention of them or how to apply - any ideas? Is your LCR build on the board? I couldn't find it to take a look at it.

Hi, The rim decal is a challenge. The tire decals are rub on decals. Please read the instructions carefully must be on last page . Dont smudge the adhesive side with fingers. Keep the tire clean and take u time to rub on lightly.

Here is the link to my build, even i made a lot of mistakes. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=51936

Rufus looks like a samurai in state of zen.

Cheers,

rishi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well today progress was made, but it was a case of 3 steps forward, 2 steps back:-

Brakes:

All painted up, but they aren't drilled. Im really surprised by this as I thought they would be drilled as enables better temperature regulation and allows water to ride off. On the box art they are not drilled, and on the pics I can find of the machine they are unclear. To make things more confusing, the Repsol RC211V with the orange wheels (as opposed to these black ones) definitely is drilled. Have decided to trust Mr. Tamiya and hope he is right. I have a drill so will be annoying if Im making the wrong call:

brakes.jpg

Lots of odds and sods moved along today, here's a pic of some of the bits and bobs, I did the wheel rim decals and they went ok (at this point in the day):

bits.jpg

I'm still hopeless at masking :huh: I masked this up as well as I could, painted it, pulled of the masking tape and it's a mess - what am I doing wrong?

maskingbody.jpg

After all this, is when things went awry. It started with an omen:

leilabox.jpg

Yes, that is a very large and obese cat inside a small Tamiya model lid. I should of realised this was Leila telling me to stop... if only I had listened...

I noticed that the wheel decals which had gone on great were slightly "risen" and not quite totally flat on the wheel rim. "I know" I thought to myself "this is the time to use Micro Sol", having completely forgotten the mess it made on my ZX 14 all off about 3 weeks ago. Cue a melted decal - what do I do now? :wall:

screwupwheel.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, a bit more progress but I have a full day ahead of me so hopefully can get this cranked forward!

I "mended" the wheel decal by transplanting on a decal from another kit. This now means I will forever have a moving-kit-minus a decal but hey at least I'm up and running again. It's not great but here's how it ended up:

mended.jpg

Here's my total moron's guide to how to do these in future, having learnt the hard way.

1. Clean the wheels really well, no dust, nada

2. Wet three decals (each of them is 120') at the same time so they are all loose at the same time. You can't do these one by one as you will always need to adjust the others.

3. Position the first decal in the grove between the tire wall and the wheel rim. It is pretty much the same size / exactly the same height as the decal. This makes the decal want to sit "over" it rather than in it. That's ok for now.

3. Position the second decal with about a 2mm overlap with the first. Slot in the third decal, and you should have again about a 2mm overlap on each side.

4. Go round each join 1 by 1 getting the best line-up you can.

5. Leave to dry overnight. The next morning they will typically be partially attached to the rim, with other parts slightly raised / sitting over the rim vs. nicely tucked in.

6. Make a solution of 5:1 water to micro-sol - NO STRONGER :wall:

7. Very carefully dab the mixture across the rim. Leave overnight, and repeat if neccessary.

By doing this the other side of my decals turned out great!

I made a wash for the engine and the chain. It was Humbrol 33, Humbrol 11 (Aluminium) and Enamel Thinners in (3:1:10) ratio. I made up a little pot of it with the lid so I can use again in the future. Here's the engine post-wash (sorry for the crap pic), but I think the wash worked great! Here it is on the chain as well. I've tried to improve my detail level on the chain and it's better than the last kit but still a long way to go:

postwash.jpg

washedchain.jpg

Finally, I stuck the engine into its mount/subframe which I think turned out great as the Tamiya Chrome really looks good against the washed engine:

subframe2.jpg

subframe1.jpg

More to follow...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And some more progress....

Here's the wheels finally finished, not great but hey getting better:

finalwheels.jpg

Next here is the rear bit (wheel and "holder" (?)) with the hugger all matched up. This went together great without drama.

rearbit.jpg

Here is the equivalent front bit, which was a bit of a pain to be honest. The problem is the body panel slightly rubs the disc - I've looked from every angle and there most be some distortion but I can't see it / rectify it. Still it looks ok. The body panel was primed in white, then painted with a tamiya rattle can.

frontwheel.jpg

Finally, I am going to have a go at filling (and tomorrow alcadding!) it seems the approach is to sand the piece down, put in some masking tape and then dilute the filler before shovelling it in. Here I am about to start it (not sure whether to do tonight or not...). Cheers, Chris.

filling.jpg

PS I know this is really lame, but having this plastic thing from Hobbycraft to keep all my sub-assemblies organised has been a life saver!

trayinuse.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, another quick update.

Exhausts

This was my first experience with alcad. I kinda messed it up, so they look ok, but probably no better than if I had just sprayed on some X-11 (tamiya alu). Basically I bought the wrong Alcad (Chrome for Lexan, as opposed to Chrome for polystryrene) I didnt think would make much difference, but of course the lexan one is to be seen through plastic, so looks great like that. But just sprayed on like I did it is a bit dull and pants. Also it smelt terrible. Still at least I've busted my Alcad cherry for the future. The Carbon fibre decals weren't as bad as I thought but they didnt quite fit perfectly so I did soften them a bit with Microsol which caused some crinkling - gah it was only because I was in a hurry that I used it neat and not my special 5:1 recipe.

exhausts.jpg

Handlebars

Ok these were a bit of a challenge! the problem is the small pieces have a very accurate fit, and despite my best efforts the primer + brush painting does thicken up the parts so they then fit very snugly. What I'm doing now is test fitting everything and using a file to just enable a slightly easier fit. Lots of parts connect so tightly when you fit them that you wonder if its worth breaking them apart again to use glue? This was no-where near as hard to paint as it looks, basically I mixed up the bronze blend (new trick to doing this is to use pill packets - just the right size for a blob of two colours) then for each bit of detail I painted over. In the end I think it looks pretty good, again an improvement on last time, here they are together:

icklebits.jpg

handlebars.jpg

Radiator

This was supposed to be Tamiya rattle-can aluminium, but I'm not made of moolah so I decided to Alcad it again as well. It actually went a nice shiny colour but looked very hyper real, so I used the wash I made for the engine and I think it really improved it. Here it is connected to the bike:

radiator.jpg

Part Made

I am building slightly out of order, basically by now I should have a few body parts on but I'm intentionally leaving the body parts to go on last. This is because I don't trust myself not to get my greasy / wet / mucky thumbs on the nice finish. So the next step for me was to marry the front and back of the bike. The fit from the arms into the handlebars was ludicrously tight, I ended up not just stripping but cutting down the joins again and again to get "snug" as opposed to "taught". Here's the bike mechanically nearly there, its looking ok I think:

partmade1.jpg

partmade2.jpg

Signing out, Chris.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good Chris!As for your marking issue the answer is one of simplicity:Burnish the tape before starting on the paint.The wheel "holder" is a swing arm.Once again It looks the dogs danglies in a very good way.Keep at it.

Regards:

Shaun

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, my bottom continues to be spanked :unsure: , and my will tested by this kit :wacko: .

With most of the "build" (i.e. paints and plastic done) I was feeling pretty cocky it was nearly done and I could get back to my hairoplane I'm building. After 10 hours, I am about 1/2 way through the decals. :confused:

Am finding it very tough, because:-

- In the past I have resorted to micro-set and micro-sol, which has always ended up with a big mess and melted decals - see earlier in this build!

- I can't get the decals to conform perfectly on the bends, particularly the carbon fibre decals - any tips? Im sort of using a cotton bud to hold them when they turn a 90' bend but they just spring back up (gah!)

- Im getting some silvering on the massive decals, not sure what to do about that after.

Thus my will is rather sapped, as with a pants finish the whole build will go downhill :doh: and the whole aim was not to do a great job, but to do a better job than last time. Here's where I'm up to:

Nose cone and bottom-tray (diffuser?). Nose cone gone ok but some silvering and none-flatness around some of the edges, also a bit of one of the white "GAS" decals fell off (i.e. i broke it but am in denial). On the diffuser, I can't get the carbon fibre to go flush on the kit, and I don't want to use the dreaded potions! Also Im getting some silvering on that big white decal on the side.

IMG_0700.jpg

carbondecals.jpg

Here's the bike so far, with body panels still not on but some more decalling done. It all feels very fragile and I'm quite scared to pick it up in case it falls apart :wall:

IMG_0705.jpg

One minor triumph has been inproving my masking. Part of the side fairing needs to be blue, but most of it orange. So I masked and sprayed and it went ok! see below:

mask1.jpg

mask2.jpg

mask3.jpg

Final question (any advice on the above re:decals much appreciated Im just going to start hunting around the web for tips myself) - do I need to move my previous build to critique corner? am not sure of the etiquette? Cheers, Chris.

PS at least the cats didnt make things anything hard, they were busy with this interloper:

catfun.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Chris,

I can see from the photos the decals are on after final paint coat. Put the decals after intial clear coat (Tamiya clear or any other). Gloss surface is best for decals . u can put a final clear to seal the decals. Some areas are unavoidable as they have semi gloss or matt finish.

Use micro set in little quantity to area that has to conform. I have not used hairdyer, but read about it used to apply decals. I think too much speed would blow away the decal.

Cheers,

rishi.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Rishi - you are over-estimating my ability!

I haven't done a clear coat, the paint is just the tamiya rattle can that I have put the decals onto. I also didn't clear coat my last bike as everyone said there was no need to. Have stopped for today as have started making mistakes :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is something to think about Fibble and you may or may not use at OWN perill.Use a very small amount of thinners yes you read it right:LAQUER THINNERS on the areas that has silvered as it is the air that gets trapped under the carrier film that causes the silver look.The thinners will eat away the carrier film and VOILA silvering gone.

If you decide to use this tip you do it at own perill as the thinners will readily dissolve and eat away the decall too if you did not practice before hand.It also bleeds colour very easily if not carefully used.

It does on the plus side give the painted on look and is very easy to use AFTER you have practiced it a couple of times on decals that will not be used.

HTH.

Regards:

Shaun

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hey Rishi - you are over-estimating my ability!

I haven't done a clear coat, the paint is just the tamiya rattle can that I have put the decals onto. I also didn't clear coat my last bike as everyone said there was no need to. Have stopped for today as have started making mistakes :(

Hi,

I was reading a Honda Magazine at work which had a few quotes of Soichiro Honda .

Success is 99 percent failure. Success can only be achieved through repeated failure and introspection. Real happiness lies in the completion of work using your own brains and skills. what we learn through failure becomes a precious part of us.

cheers,

rishi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, the bike is "done" and frankly, I have botched it up. :wall:

I'm pretty much ok with it as I knew it was going to be a really difficult bike to build after the last one. Specifically I'm just not good enough to do the decalling well on a bike like this. I was planning to do the Hayabusa next (as more similar to the last bike), but an unfortunate Cat using eBay accident meant I ended up with two of those horrible repsol things so seemed like a low risk one to build, knowing I have another.

You'll see there is some silvering, but by far the worst foul-up is on the very last part of the bike - the side fairings, I couldn't get the decals to sit well and they started to tear. This then limited their maneurability, I had to use some softener to even get the finish that I ended up with. If I could work out how to get cheap spare decals I'd happily have a few more goes and try and re-finish her, any tips? Still here's some photos, be kind and thanks for the help during the build as always. Chris.

IMG_0716.jpg

IMG_0715.jpg

IMG_0713.jpg

IMG_0711.jpg

IMG_0710.jpg

Kit Review, some thoughts and what I need to work on for the next kit (probably the R1 kit) to follow in another post after I have had a beer (or two). As you can see, Leila has already hit the sauce in response to my decalling.

078.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good, I'd be fairly proud to have that on my shelf. well done. :goodjob: I've recently returned to the hobby myself and things have moved on a little in the past 20 odd years.

A clear coat will definately help your decals slip to the correct place much easier, as well as adding a shine and depth.

I noticed some orange peel on the nose cowling, definately worth investing in some micro-mesh polishing cloths - the difference they can make is incredible.

There are a few after market decal sets available try here

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks great!....I built one a couple of years back and had a bit of trouble with the paint on on fairing side, so decided to use airbrush cleaner to wipe it off, well as you can guess it melted it ..looked like it had caught fire ha ha. So now display it with fairings off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×