Severus Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Hi all, as I like the grey schema on Fw-190A, I looked around for the same on Dora. As it seems, that schema of RLM74/75 never ever made it to what so ever JG, I decided to make some triple way exchange... Wing from D-9 passed to D-11 (will be built as D-13), which passed it's wing to A-8 (will be built as A-8/R2) , and from A-8 wing had been taken to D-9. Of course, a little cutting is necessary, fortunately, Eduard is very consistent accross it's moulds, as wing root around wells can be easily cut out and interchanged. BTW... I just realised I don't remember why I want to take this extensive surgery... Pics will be added during weekend... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 (edited) Just slight progress on cockpit, wing surgery, etc... Using Hu:32 as RLM66 with drop of white and Revell:45 as RLM02. Perhaps the Hu:32 is still too dark... Slow progress on plumbing... Wing front cut out... Cockpit... Ah yes, currently working on throtle lever... Thinking about adding rudder pedals from dragon or tamiya zoom... Edited August 15, 2011 by Severus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted August 24, 2011 Author Share Posted August 24, 2011 So, little progress... Today I printed stammkenzeichen for V53 a V65 prototypes... And some serials. A little clumsy to work with, as toner is very reluctant to hold on anything apart from paper, fragille, but on the other hand - very cheap, as everyone can make it DIY. Slowly closing the fusselage... From the front... Here on day - from quick glance nothing to worry about... In front it looks okay (dry fitting)... But... Both halves of the same plane do have different length... And here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammy da fish Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Thank you for building these interesting aircraft. I to have a deep interest in the prototypes of the FW190 and am slowly building a few myself. Having looked at your decals, what size and font have you been using to produce both the serials and letters? Please keep the posts going, model coming together nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted August 24, 2011 Author Share Posted August 24, 2011 Thank you for building these interesting aircraft. I to have a deep interest in the prototypes of the FW190 and am slowly building a few myself. Having looked at your decals, what size and font have you been using to produce both the serials and letters? Please keep the posts going, model coming together nicely. AFAIK. it's been called Alte DIN 1451 Mittelschrift font, and the alternative "D" came frm Arial. Unfortunately, one too fat, the other one too thin, but I think, I'll be able to cut something usable. The letters CSIA were direct scaled copies of LWF letters from Propagteam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbuna Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Coming along nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moofles Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 looking good so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted August 27, 2011 Author Share Posted August 27, 2011 Slight progress on fuselage and wings. As V53 didn't have the bulges on upper side of wing, I filed these off. The side effect is, I must add rivets (Job I really hate)... I discovered right half being some 1,5 mm short, which would lead to banana shape, if trying align lines across the spine (mostly), therefore I decided to cut the fuselage in the extension plug. Next step wll be adding some plastic card. Checking alignment... Ditto... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Prominent feature of coler flaps on production Doras been one flap unmoveable, probably in attempt to allow ininterupted flow into intake, apart from V53, which had all the flaps moveable. As I didn't have any beer can handy, I tried my best using spare ring from another Dora. BTW... Concerning intake, has it been some L-shaped pipe into supercharger, or it's been just mouth with hole on it's side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted September 2, 2011 Author Share Posted September 2, 2011 (edited) Not much update today, just trying to improve intake. Although I din't find drawing of Jumo-213 intake, I guess, it had generally the same features as DB-603, i.e. not just pocket with hole aside, but L-shaped pipe from the front to the side... Sorry, pic from compact camera... Edited September 2, 2011 by Severus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 So, at last, somehow I've managed to put the main construction together. I decided to sand off the panel under air scoop on the top forward cowling, as it looked too pronounced, and didn't look like on the V53. Moreover, as V53 had two scoops apart from single on serial D-9s, I want to have the same fitting and look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 As I lost the small airscoop from the kit, I decided to sacrifice some exhausts for Tamiya Dora. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 Finally managed to coat it with primer... Somewhere the rivetting disappears, but most probsbly I wouldn't repair it, as I bought just weekend edition of D-9 and therefore didn't put much effort into detailing. (Makes me wonder, how it might happen, the 1/48 scale D-9 is cheaper of hasegawa 1/72 Trying to solve paints dilemma... Thinking about using old Molak's LG-75 and LG-4, can't decide on RLM74 rendition (between Molak LG4, Hu:27, Hu:111, Hu:125, or creative mix of Humbrol paints) and RLM75 (Select from Molak LG75, Hu:106, Hu:79, Hu:140). Oh almost forgotten - Is there any use of Revell 77 and/or 79??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 I'm enjoying following this thread, most interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammy da fish Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 Different subject I am watching this one with great deal of interest. I have 4 190/ 152 prototypes made and this one would be a natural choice for myself please keep up the good work. Like your approach to the letters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted September 11, 2011 Author Share Posted September 11, 2011 I decided to start paint job from topside. As a matter of couriosity, I decided to use old molak's rendition of RLM75 - nothing worse, than putting plane into break fluid bath might happen... Apart from the fact I should have thinned the paint even more, concerning the shade I'm somehow satisfied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 Something strange happened here... As I found Molak LG4 unusable, I switched over to Revell 77 or 78. But what a surprice, as the result with gun was significanly lighter and greener without addition of white, than the test with brush... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 (edited) Just to show daylight look... Edited September 14, 2011 by Severus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank152 Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Starting to look the part now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 So, I shot RLM76. Once again I got caught by surprise, as - after two days of cure - the paint excesively lightened up, killing totally 75 and 74 mottling. Never ever had previously such problems with intermixing Humbrol and Revell (Humbrol 64 with Revell 47). Surprisingly, again, on the brush it looked significantly darker, than from gun... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted September 17, 2011 Author Share Posted September 17, 2011 After some masking and spraying... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Slight update... Shot aluminium on cowling, mix of thinned (1:20~~1:40) Agama paste with drop of acrylate... In order to get better access to panels, and to ease the pain of masking, I knocked off the intake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 Ah, one forgotten BMF pannel behind engine cowl... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbuna Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Great stuff!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Severus Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 Nearly "almost there"... Shot black around exhausts, unfortunately post-it cards lifted, leaking black paint around. Will be repaired by brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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