Foxley Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Hey guys! I'm totally new to all this resin casting business. I've never done it before and I had no clue where to start at first. I've been researching this for about two weeks now, looking at what I need to get and what I need to do, so hopefully I have some idea of what I want to achieve. Anyway, basically I want to be able to reproduce and cast miniatures/models and terrain at home, whether they be resin/metal/plastic, without any of the proper equipment companies use to cast their products, meaning it'll be done with LEGO for boxes and some good old elbow grease. Now from my research I need to get some RTV silicone for making a mold, then a resin for the cast and some release agent to get the thing out once done. (Please note: I understand the rules and am not in it to start ripping off peoples work and selling stuff.) Since I'm in the UK and from other posts I've read on here and Google, TOMPS.com seem to be the best place, so I've limited the products I think I need down to these: Mold making: http://www.tomps.com/shop/-c-1_7_6.html Resin casting: http://www.tomps.com/shop/polyurethane-fas...esin-p-129.html (SLOW) Release: http://www.tomps.com/shop/cilchem-aerosol-release-p-60.html (1711E) Can anyone who has had experience with this sort of stuff just check over to see if I'm correct in what I need? Have I chosen the wrong products? Am I missing something? I'd hate to order the wrong stuff and be left with a load of bits that I can't use. Cheers guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 I use Tiranti, and they seem a mite cheaper on the face of it T28 moulding rubber G26 Resin, although I'm not sure I'd buy this one again, as it's quite greasy when cast & prone to heat deformation. Ambersil release agent to the forums too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bootneck Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 I'm also a Tiranti user, have been for over 20 years. Tiranti has a decent shop and workshop and you can pop in for some helpful advice. They even do demonstrations on certain days - of course this does depend on where you live, Tiranti's are based at Thatcham, just off the M4. There site is: http://www.tiranti.co.uk/ Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Cornes Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 I get my stuff from Sylmasta. I'm not sure where you live but I go to Scale Model World at Telford every November and I stock up with both RTV rubber and Biresin and it normally costs me £50 for the lot. I originally used Tiranti but was put off by the high postage charge, hence why I buy it at SMW to avoid that bit. I find that 1Kg of rubber is typically good for about 10 moulds, ie 100g each. The rubber is mixed with catalyst at 5% by weight. The best way I've found for doing this is with some jewellers electronic scales - about £5 on E-Bay. I pour 'enough' rubber into a disposable drinks cup and weigh it. Work out what 5% is and then drop catalyst in until I reach the correct total weight, then give it a good mix with a brush handle and pour it over the master. Leave for 24 hours and job done! Watch out for over large moulds. The more rubber, the harder it is to get a homologous mix with the catalyst! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 I use Tiranti, and they seem a mite cheaper on the face of it T28 moulding rubber G26 Resin, although I'm not sure I'd buy this one again, as it's quite greasy when cast & prone to heat deformation. Ambersil release agent to the forums too Have you tried any of the "F" range resins from that site? Shaun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niall Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 I've been using this resin from Tiranti's - http://www.tiranti.co.uk/subdivision_produ...Subdivision=555 It has a low viscosity and gives good results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The wooksta V2.0 Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 This is the stuff I normally use: http://www.tiranti.co.uk/subdivision_produ...Subdivision=228 Although I'm trying some similar stuff from a local outlet, North East Fibreglass, based in South Shields. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Has anyone tried this product? Easyflo60 Shaun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxley Posted August 27, 2011 Author Share Posted August 27, 2011 Thanks for the replies guys, and the links to numerous products. I've been very cautious on what I needed to order, and after seeing some of your recommendations, and not getting a reply from TOMPS customer service team I have taken the plunge with Tiranti. Here's what I ordered: T28 Silicone Rubber + T6 Catalyst 1.05kg kit Axson F31 Polyurethane Resin 1.8kg Formula 5 Release Agent 400ml Can Looking forward to it turning up and giving some casting a bash. Always nice to do something new with the hobby! Let's just hope I ordered the right stuff.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 That all seems sensible... next step is to source a pressure pot to expell (crush) all the air bubbles in the resin. That's what I want next, but money is the hold up there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 (edited) That all seems sensible... next step is to source a pressure pot to expell (crush) all the air bubbles in the resin. That's what I want next, but money is the hold up there After a pressure pot/vacuum pump at the mo so I can get casting Lightning parts - just shocked at the prices... Not done any 'production quality' casting before - just stuff for own use - but hear tell vacuum to expel air from the rubber when making moulds, and pressure to squeeze the bubbles when casting? Correct? If I got a resin with longer working time after mixing - would vacuum work better? Iain Edited August 27, 2011 by Iain (32SIG) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buccymad Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 After a pressure pot/vacuum pump at the mo so I can get casting Lightning parts - just shocked at he prices... Not done any 'production quality' casting before - just stuff for own use - but hear tell vacuum to expel air from the rubber when making moulds, and pressure to squeeze the bubbles when casting? Correct? If I got a resin with longer working time after mixing - would vacuum work better? Iain youtube is your friend here ,plenty of demonstrations on how to build your own"homegrown"vacuum chamber. doesnt seem that difficult and with the price of shop bought chambers starting in the range of £1000 ,a lot cheaper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 (edited) Thanks mate - hadn't realised there was that kind of stuff out there - off to have a look! I'd been thinking of contacting these guys for advice/kit - Applied Vacuum Engineering Iain Edited August 27, 2011 by Iain (32SIG) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 (edited) Hmmm - courtesy of YouTube this is giving me ideas - just need to find a similar food storage jar her in UK - thought this was very neat (perhaps hooking up to one of my compressors rather than a 12v tire pump?): Iain Edited August 27, 2011 by Iain (32SIG) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike McCabe Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 That looks interesting and a lot cheaper than I have seen elsewhere. The pot is separate at £156, I wonder if a cheaper pump could be found to do the same job? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murdo Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Interesting... Very interesting! I think you would need some kind of pressure guage attached too otherwise it might become dangerous? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niall Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 I've been making silicon rubber moulds since 1983, mostly for white metal castings. I've never found air bubbles in the rubber to be much of a problem. If you pour the rubber slowly in a thin stream from a height of 75-100mm above the mould box. Also ensure the rubber stream misses the master and flows over it as the height builds up. This way any large bubbles are burst and small bubbles do not cover details of the master. The other thing is don't make the mould too small. Make it at least 13mm larger than the master all round. This gives space to cut air vents into the cured rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilgrim_UK Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Is there a cheaper version of doing this. Something to dabble in without spending over a £100. Biggest item will be a 1/6 head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niall Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 The consequence of not using the vacuum/pressure equipment is that you will get more bad castings, not that all castings will be failures. I have never used vacuum equipment for mould making and have only had to remake 1 mould because of air bubble(s) on critical detail. I have also made resin casting, although with some failures, although many of these were repairable with filler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radleigh Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Hmmm - courtesy of YouTube this is giving me ideas - just need to find a similar food storage jar her in UK - thought this was very neat (perhaps hooking up to one of my compressors rather than a 12v tire pump?): Iain Might be to small but, http://www.lakeland.co.uk/15489/Typhoon-Novo-Storage-Jar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niall Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Some photos of my resin castings are in the link below. All were made by simply pouring - the rubber and resin as I described in this tread. http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/ind...p?topic=23303.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gajman Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 Is there a cheaper version of doing this. Something to dabble in without spending over a £100. Biggest item will be a 1/6 head. This is a very simple solution that I found works. Of course it may be a case of too much information too I've never really had a problem with bubbles in the mold (follow the earlier advice on how to pour the rubber around your master) but I used to have a problem with bubbles on some of the more intricate detail of parts that I molded (for example, 1/72 F-18 wingfold detail) but found that if I put a thin sheet of wood on four springs (I used the springs from an old pop up game that my kids broke where you had x minutes to put all the pieces in place otherwise it popped up and shot the pieces all over the place). Then I used duct tape to tape a vibrator to the undersides of the wood plank ... boy, this posting is opening itself up to so many comments . Put your mold on the wood and start the vibrator before you mix the resin (just to save time as you usually only have about 90 seconds to work with the resin before it starts curing) and then mix the resin and pour it into the mold at a fairly slow pace. Using this and also thinking more carefully about where to place the points through which you pour the resin solved my problems. (Of course I did have some explaining to do to the wife ... Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hacker Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 all sorts of interesting advice here may follow up on some of them. Otherwise for my Apache cockpit l may end up getting someone to cast it for me. There is a guy locally here but others like me found him to be slow and procrastinates a bit instant of getting it done. Also he likes you to do most of his work for him but still charges the full price which l doubt is the norm. This has put me off getting done by someone else and just relying on myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangtight Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 I use a vacuum method for laying up composites for model gliders, including carbon fibre. Sounds expensive until you realise that you can generate a fair vacuum with one of those fishtank air pumps which will set you back about £15. Just connect the vacuum chamber to the suck side rather than the blow. A simple vacuum chamber can be knocked up from a bit of thick wall pvc pipe from the builders merchants with the screw on end caps. Connect a bike pump or tyre compressor to the chamber and you've got a pressure vessel that's good for about 150 psi. Have a look HERE for a sailplanes forum with loads of advice on creating cheap (and in some cases free) vacuum setups, including how to adapt an old fridge motor into a very efficient vacuum pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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