Viking Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I thought I would break this out into a standalone topic as hopefully it will be of use to anyone building biplanes. I'm not saying that this is the best or easiest way, or claiming to be some sort of expert in this area. Its just I enjoy problem solving and learning from other people, and that this is how I do it. Hopefully it will help others! Here we go..... Firstly, the Bristol Fighter is a good demonstration subject, as there 'aint many that are more complex. I always glue and fix the cabane struts first, and place the fuselage upside down on the top wing with the struts in their respective holes to align them (don't glue them in yet!) leave to set for at least a day. Next I make a 'template' out of clear plasticard for aligning the main struts. I cut a piece to the same chord as the wing so I can visualise where the leading & trailing edges will , but am not too bothered about making it full span. As along as all the strut locations are covered. Simply tape the clear plastic to the underside of the top wing, then using the point of a compass or dividers, make a hole where each strut location is. Remove the piece, and drill out each hole with a .7 or .8mm drill. (Clear plastic doesn't photograph very well!), and score a bend a little dihederal if needed. At the same time I drill out the stut locating holes on both wings (not through the wing, I just want to remove any paint or crud from them) and test fit stuts. Theres nothing worse than finding the struts won't fit in their holes when you have committed to glue. Next I deal deal with rigging. I use 'invisible mending thread' pulled tight after the wing is on. It only requires a bit of forward planning. [EDIT - I forgot to say I drill rigging holes with a 0.4mm drill, readily available in packs of 5 from Hobbycraft, or from the likes of Proops on mail order.] I locate the lines in the bottom wing/fuselage side and pull them through the top wing. All the holes in the bottom wing are 'blind' I.e not all the way through. All the holes in the top wing are drilled right through. Needless to say, they all need to be done before any assembly of wings. I secure all the rigging lines at this stage because it is so much easier to do. If you are not careful you end up with a tangled 'snakes wedding' so I tape groups of lines down with tamiya tape for now. Hopefully you can make it out in this pic; The fuselage is the secured to the bottom wing (anything other than an F2b already will be!) and things start to get interesting. I've popped the four inner struts in to their locations on the bottom wing, having put a small blob of cyano in each hole. Then, locate the template on the cabane struts, and using tweezers locate each of the four main struts into the template. Put a few coins on if it keeps flopping about. Best not to use fast acting cyano. Leave it 10 minutes or so, then do the outer 4 struts the same way. Check from above and head on that everything is aligned. By using a full chord template you can look from above and see where the leading & trailing edges will be. Bingo! remove template to reveal a perfectly aligned set up just waiting for the top wing! So having put a blob of cyano on the upper wing strut holes (I leave the outer 4 until the cabane & inners are done) I turn the fuselage upside down and locate the cabanes & inners into their cyano filled holes, and then the outers. Go and have a cup of tea, and leave it all to set. If this is the first time you have done it, a good quality beer or even single malt might be better. Next step is to pull all the lines through. You did drill the holes through the upper wing didn't you? I work 1 set of lines at a time, and always do the opposite one before moving on. This method of rigging is 'functional' in that it really will make your model stronger. It will also pull it out of shape if you do one side entirely, and then the other. This is the stuff I use; Firstly, a set of clip on magnifying lenses for my glasses. A blob of cyano on some greaseproof paper. This is actually the stuff that comes with double sided tape. The cyano lasts quite a while on it. Locking tweezers with a bit of fishing line or stretched sprue in, as a cyano applicator. Keep trimming the end as the cyano will cure on it while you work, Fine tweezers, And a couple of trimmed down household pegs. Starting nearest the fuselage, feed a line through its hole in the top wing. Place the model upside down on a piece of sponge, and attach one of the pegs to free end of the line. Move it gently so the line goes taut. With fine tweezers, gently withdraw the line back through the hole for a couple of cm. With the applicator tweezers put a small bead of cyano on the line and either gently re-tension the line by pulling the peg, or gently lift the model up so that the weight of the pegs tensions the line. That's all there is to it, except you might have to do it 30 or more times for each line. More of it has 'double flying wires' like this one. Do 1 bay at a time, and don't do it for more than an hour at a time. Beer is important, so make time for it. You will end up with a hairy aeroplane; Trim them off with a new blade, and sand & fill where needed. I use white Milliput for any holes. Now you can see why I never paint the top side of the top wing until after the model is assembled. I'm leaving it like this for today so that it all settles down and 'Cures'. During the week I will run masking tape around the underside edges of the top wing and spray more primer on it, then get checker painting again. Sorry this seems to have turned into an epic, but I would really like to pass on what I have learned and encourage more guys to have a go at biplanes and rigging. One of the best to start with would be one of Eduards 1/48 Nieuports or Hanriots. So, we are not scared of struts or rigging any more are we? Finished model is here. John 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire23bc Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Wow, thanks John, that's really useful. Bookmarked for future reference! Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey58 Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Great instructions and pictures,thanks for that-it's turning into a stunning model too!!Where did you get the clip-on magnifiers? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev67 Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 One reason why I don't do Bi-planes, the rigging Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bari Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Very helpful set of instructions It's encouraged me to have another go at WW1, especially as my last 1/72 Fokker DVII was a disaster as after trimming the struts to equal lengths the pilot could see over the top wing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 Great instructions and pictures,thanks for that-it's turning into a stunning model too!!Where did you get the clip-on magnifiers?Mike Mike, I got mine from my local modelshopb but they have since turned into a Modelzone and don't do them any more. However I see them HERE Cheers, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Von Ryan Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Superb post - I only wish I'd read this before I sold most of my 1/48 biplane stash on e-bay. Never mind its out with the Camel that I have left Thanks for the inspiration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 VERY nice John, impressive work, even more impressive instructions! I do only 1/72 scale which makes things a little more fiddley but basically the same techniques. One of these days I'll get my Aeroclub jig to help! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hacker Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 interesting. Been struggling for over a week with my Tiger Moth struts and here you have my solution (if it work for me) I will give it a go thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowan Broadbent Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 A very clear and useful tutorial, John, thanks for posting. I use the same process myself with a minor difference - particularly for single-bay biplanes, I drill the holes through the lower wing which is painted before construction, adding the cockade/cross decals last usually covers up the exit holes and filling. But for the Biff, your way would be best. You'll need all the added strength that the functional rigging gives when it comes to masking the top wing! Great stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul RH Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 Excellent tutorial... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody37 Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 Great tutorial John, love it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidcurrie42 Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Great tutorial and many great tips John, Thanks for posting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Man Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Like the clear template idea, Sir. May take it up on some future project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admiral Puff Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Many thanks, John - a most useful tutorial. Now, if you'd be so kind, something on painting those checks would be wonderful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 Thanks for the feedback, its nice to know this stuff gets looked at. I'm all for sharing knowledge rather than keeping it 'secret' and hope it encourages people to have a go. I've learned off fellow modelers over the years. Now, if you'd be so kind, something on painting those checks would be wonderful! Found it again! Here Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admiral Puff Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Wonderful, thanks John! That's so simple even a clod like me couldn't bugger it up ... sez he ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antoine Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Very useful topic, where everything's clearly explained. Well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray S Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Hello John, great idea posting this! I have been doing bipes for years but this would have made it so much easier! As for the clear template - what a brilliant idea! Thanks again, All the best, Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I've been trying to pluck up courage to rig a biplane but so far haven't. It's all I can do to get the top wing on and to stay on! Thanks for this, John. This has to be the best advice centre going. I've learned so much from watching 'In Progress' threads and others like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crookedmouth Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 John Great posting. I have the Roden F2b sat in my stash waiting for me to work up the courage. I've never been that scared of strutting and rigging but thinking about the F2b does bring me up in a cold sweat. The transparent plasticard looks like a damn good idea to me. I always end up doing much the same but using the actual wing as the template. It's a bit of a balancing act innit? I prefer fine gauge fishing line myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Aero Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Is the clear Jig your idea? I would like to recommend it in my instructions if and when I re-introduce my Bi-plane Jig again. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 On 30/08/2013 at 14:29, John Aero said: Is the clear Jig your idea? I would like to recommend it in my instructions if and when I re-introduce my Bi-plane Jig again. John Hello John, It is indeed, I came up with it when building your 1/48 FE2.b with all those struts! I didn't do any photos of it under construction, but here is how it turned out. Getting all those lined up accurately was a doddle with the clear plastic template. Feel free to incorporate it into your instructions, I'm pleased that others are finding the idea useful. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Aero Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 Thank you. Nice to see the old FE2 built so well. Regards John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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