Tamiya Jaguar XJR-9LM (1:24)

[dr_gn]

So I had a go at the seatbelts. Originals were moulded into the seat and looked crap:

These are Tamiya 1:20 F1 aftermarket belts. I've adapted them to be 5 point rather than six, and used the correct blue anodised/black/silver finish on the hardware. After a coat of Humbrol Matt they looked OK:

Then cam covers. There are some etched name plates in the Studio 27 set, so I set about scraping the original mouldings off:

Then stuck the p/e bits on with superglue (ETA not seen a photo of the #2 car with the TWR logos on them, but what the hell - they look good!):

Then painted, and scraped the raised lettering with a scalpel blade & drilled the spaceframe brace brackets out ready for a bolt:

Dashboard. I drilled the switch blobs out ready for some flattened lead wire, then prepared it for carbon decalling:

I really thought the carbon decals were going to be a nightmare. And I was right:

What's the best way of removing declas? Brake fluid?

cheers.

Edited July 1, 2011 by dr_gn

[dr_gn]

Are you familiar with these:

http://members.shaw.ca/millersbrm/publications2.html

In particular #2

cheers

Yes, thanks. I contacted that guy (price has recently gone up), but having done a bit of digging I've found 90% of the wiring and plumbing routing (at least 90% of what can be seen). Jaguar Heritage promised me a few detail pics of the bit's I was missing the next time they have the lid off, so hopefully that will be all I need.

Cheers.

[rmcclure]

What's the best way of removing declas? Brake fluid?

cheers.

Won't they just float off in warm water? Probably a very silly question based on the standard of skill but did you use Microsol or similar?

[dr_gn]

What's the best way of removing declas? Brake fluid?

cheers.

Won't they just float off in warm water? Probably a very silly question based on the standard of skill but did you use Microsol or similar?

Yeah I used Microsol...I think they just need a bit more care in application. They are very thin and very sticky (not like normal decals), so once dry it's almost like paint!

cheers!

[dr_gn]

Had anther go at the dashboard, still no luck!

Even though the paper is very thin, there was too much raised detail on the dash for it to work. I then sanded 99% of the raised details off the dash, and started again. I used three main pieces of sheet to simulate the three parts of the panel (although covering with one piece wouldn't have been an issue since there are no real compount curves on there). The small pocket on the right had to be covered with three individual pieces. All the raised detail had to be made from scrap brass wire, plasticard etc, and glued back on. This time was better:

Not really happy with it, but a lot of it is hidden, and I think the experience gained will be useful for the rest of the model.

Just need a "MOMO" decal for the steering wheel now.

The instructions on the decal says to apply softening solution to the part before applying the decal. Because they are so thin it makes it then impossible to move around to get into position. I wonder if I could flot into place with water, then apply the solution to the top surface only? Would Microsol still work as well like this?

Next stop the seat! I've glad I ordered the carbon decal template set for the rest of the car - this stuff is a nightmare to use.

[keefr22]

That looks really good to me! Whenever I use c.f. decal, I wet the surface its going on with water with a tiny drop of washing up liquid in it (as I do with many of the ultra thin eastern european decals) as that makes it much easier to move around. Never noticed any problem with using microsol on decals applied to a surface like that.

K

[dr_gn]

That looks really good to me! Whenever I use c.f. decal, I wet the surface its going on with water with a tiny drop of washing up liquid in it (as I do with many of the ultra thin eastern european decals) as that makes it much easier to move around. Never noticed any problem with using microsol on decals applied to a surface like that.

K

Cheers Keefr. I've never really used microsol on sheet decals like this. If you put it on top of the deal rather than underneath, does it still draw the decal down onto the surface as it sets somehow? I wonder if microset would be a better bet than water? Basically if you soften the decal on contact with the surface, youre literally stuck with it where you initially placed it - no time to move it around it just melts to the surface.

[keefr22]

Cheers Keefr. I've never really used microsol on sheet decals like this. If you put it on top of the deal rather than underneath, does it still draw the decal down onto the surface as it sets somehow? I wonder if microset would be a better bet than water? Basically if you soften the decal on contact with the surface, youre literally stuck with it where you initially placed it - no time to move it around it just melts to the surface.

Yes, that's always been my experience with Microsol used that way, it still works as advertised. I only tend to buy the sol now (& then only use it for work like this, for general decalling now I just use Klear) as I never found the microset did anything different than the water/fairy liquid mix did, but it cost a lot more! I also only ever put sol on top of decals, I've never tried putting it on the surface first to be honest.

K

[dr_gn]

Yes, that's always been my experience with Microsol used that way, it still works as advertised. I only tend to buy the sol now (& then only use it for work like this, for general decalling now I just use Klear) as I never found the microset did anything different than the water/fairy liquid mix did, but it cost a lot more! I also only ever put sol on top of decals, I've never tried putting it on the surface first to be honest.

K

K,

I tend to apply microsol, then after 10 minutes or so, squeeze the decal onto the surface with a damp tissue. I think you are supposed to just leave it. What method do you use?

Cheers.

[keefr22]

K,

I tend to apply microsol, then after 10 minutes or so, squeeze the decal onto the surface with a damp tissue. I think you are supposed to just leave it. What method do you use?

Cheers.

Usually, I apply the decal onto the wetted surface, gently squeeze out any excess 'water' with a cotton bud, then just put some Microsol on top of the decal & then just leave it as you say. If its a particularly oddly shaped surface however, I sometimes put the microsol on & then gently dry the decal with a hair dryer. I do have to say though that the latter method isn't always 100% succesful, & seems to depend on the maker of the decal whether it works or not. When it does work the end result can look fantastic!

K

[The Hooded Claw]

My process for any decals has changed greatly over the last few months and I'm now getting good results consistently.

I have dispensed with decal solutions and replaced them with a hairdryer, hot water and a stiff brush.

Float the decal into place on the water as usual. then blot away excess fluid with a lint free cloth. Then using the hairdryer warm up the decal. Beware too much heat will melt the plastic so take your time/care.

The decal will partially melt making it easier to conform to the underlying detail.

The process is a little slower than solvents and needs a degree of care but the end results are superb!

THC

[vandy1]

I think your dash looks spot on! The centre section was the component we used to lay up and the two out 'box' sections were actually part of the chassis tub so three panels of Carbon fibre is just right

Cheers

DSJ

PS: just found a Hasegawa sprint version for sale

[dr_gn]

I think your dash looks spot on! The centre section was the component we used to lay up and the two out 'box' sections were actually part of the chassis tub so three panels of Carbon fibre is just right

Cheers

DSJ

PS: just found a Hasegawa sprint version for sale

Cheers DSJ (appropriate initials!). I think the carbon decal for the centre dash is a bit coarse, but hey ho. I doubt anyone will notice when the windscreen is fitted!

Finished the seat at least. Good job the joins in the carbon decal are hidden, but slowly getting to grips with it.

I'm happy with that, especially compared with the unmodified original:

[macgregor]

Seat looks the dogs b*****S!

Mac

[vandy1]

Nice seat Dr!,

The actual bit the driver sat in was a carbon fibre liner that was moulded for each driver. it was rumored that when they moulded these they used a bag with two-part foam and got the driver to sit in this so that they had a contour of the drivers body. It was alleged that because Jan Lammers was so small the two part foam lifted him clear of the seat when it expanded!!

Cheers

D Sherwood-Jones

[dr_gn]

Nice seat Dr!,

The actual bit the driver sat in was a carbon fibre liner that was moulded for each driver. it was rumored that when they moulded these they used a bag with two-part foam and got the driver to sit in this so that they had a contour of the drivers body. It was alleged that because Jan Lammers was so small the two part foam lifted him clear of the seat when it expanded!!

Cheers

D Sherwood-Jones

That's interesting: I thought the seat itself was a carbon shell (the bit that's got the carbon decal) and that the driver sat on a foam insert - initially moulded as you said by the driver sitting in a plastic bag filled with 2 part foam liquid. That bit was usually covered in black tape, and could often be seen being removed/replaced by drivers during a stint change. Didn't realise that the liner itself was carbon fibre.

[vandy1]

That's interesting: I thought the seat itself was a carbon shell (the bit that's got the carbon decal) and that the driver sat on a foam insert - initially moulded as you said by the driver sitting in a plastic bag filled with 2 part foam liquid. That bit was usually covered in black tape, and could often be seen being removed/replaced by drivers during a stint change. Didn't realise that the liner itself was carbon fibre.

Hi Dr,

you could be right, however i do remember seeing these liners at TWR at Kidlington with the drivers names on but i suppose these could have been used as patterns/Moulds etc for the foam as they would have been less indestructable than the two part foam bags.

Cheers

DSJ

[dr_gn]

So I made a bit more slow progress.

I made a start on the bulkhead water pipework that is missing from the kit. The bulkhead itself had a moulded-in oil seperator tank, and ignition box/holder:

I can't paint raised detail very well, and the ignition box/holder was wrongly moulded - Tamiya have misinterpreted their drawings somehow (as I said previously - this kit wasn't produced in Tamiya's finest hour IMO). Anyway, I hacksawed all that detail off:

And filled the holes/scratches up. I tidied the separator tank up ready for painting, and made a completely new ignition box holder from plasticard:

While I was at it, I removed the mudguard mouldings from the floor tray ready for replacement with the Studio 27 etched versions:

That's it for now.

Edited July 22, 2011 by dr_gn

[dr_gn]

Continued with the missing engine plumbing: formed the main pipes out of copper wire and soldered plastic stubs in the places where hoses will be attached. Also made a hole in the bulkhead for the missing gear linkage:

Also added some surface detail to the electrical box; a few stiffening ribs out of Tamiya tape, and a pocket made by filing/cutting with a scalpel. Also drilled some holes ready for the rubber securing bands:

I've been puzzling over how to make the correctly textured fuel tank/engine bay heat shield material. Then this morning I noticed that the foil that wraps Berocca vitamin tablets has an almost exact scale square embossed pattern. I always knew Berocca would be worth more to me than just being a placebo!

[ptcruiser]

Is this of any use to you dr-gn? Taken at Silverstone Classic this weeeknd. XJR9, Le Mans '88, #44. Finished 2nd to a Nissan during the Saturday evening race. Brilliant!

I wasn't able to ge to the right hand side as the awning was really close. Got interior and front brake details too if you want them?

Rich

[dr_gn]

Is this of any use to you dr-gn? Taken at Silverstone Classic this weeeknd. XJR9, Le Mans '88, #44. Finished 2nd to a Nissan during the Saturday evening race. Brilliant!

I wasn't able to ge to the right hand side as the awning was really close. Got interior and front brake details too if you want them?

Rich

Thats a great pic - Thanks!

Any chance you could post it in a larger size??

And yes, please post the others up too.

Thanks again.

[ptcruiser]

How about these below? I enlarged the original via photobucket, but I can focus in on a specific area through procesing software on my PC if you want some area specifically (the original images are ~19MPX and I've down sized them via Photobucket for use on the forum).

Cheers

Rich

[dr_gn]

They are really useful excellent pics - thanks for posting.

In fact I think at this scale I've got more or less all I need now - any assumptions or errors on my part shouldn't be too obvious!

Thanks again.

[dr_gn]

Fabricated the (not included in the kit) gearchange linkage out of brass tube and rod. The black dots represent sealed articulated joints (these are tiny beads from Hobbycraft).

It looks a bit medieval, but it's the correct geometry - it can be seen in the picture below running adjacent to the engine spaceframe tube (in black):

[dr_gn]

More or less finished the scratchbuilt water pipes now. Made the tapered cylinder head water rails and test fitted everything. Hopefully I can find some thinner blue heatshrink for the hoses: