yeehah1 Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 18 06 11 Guys, I was hoping you might be able to advise me on this but I am looking for clear styrene that I can heat and smash-vac ( or plunge-vac) to make a canopy for a rather over-sized model I am making. I know the Squadron stuff is no longer produced but I was hoping someone could recomend something similar that I could use. Thanks in advance Liam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old_TimB (Broken account) Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I've successfully used the clear plastic used for packaging - if it has been vacuformed once, it can be done again... Of course, you may have to buy something to get it: I think an easter egg came free with my last sheet of plastic, used for a couple of 1/48 spitfires Regards Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I've been stockpiling clear packaging for just that purpose but I've wondered, is all clear packaging created equal or should I keep an eye out for a particular recycle symbol, ie, the number in the triangle? Steve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whittingham Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I've had good results with the clear tops of CD jewel cases. (never throw anything away!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yeehah1 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 20 06 11 Thanks for the reply guys. But to be clear, what I want to do is NOT vac-forming as such. I don't have the means to do that. What I intend to do is to heat the plastic and then thump it down over a master I have created, hopefully making the canopy I need. I have a tiny section of the stuff Squadron used to sell ( donated by a mate .. the last of his stockpile) and am looking for more or similar in case I make a muck of it. I never thought of the clear front of cd jewel cases. That's the clear plastic front of the hard cases, right? Not the floppy see-through envelope types? Hmmmmm. Liam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 If you're using the material for a canopy, then the clear plastic used in packaging works fine. Now as to which one works best, some tests are recommended, as not all clear plastic was created equal. Acetate is the best, and is the same material used in "commercial" vacuformed canopies. PET on the other hand does not work, or better I never managed to use it succesfully. Acetate is used in several applications and can be bought in sheets. A brand new sheet will always be better than a recycled shirt box. Transparencies for projections are sometimes in this material, might be worth checking an office supply shop. The technique you mention is named "crash moulding". It works fine if the shape is not too complicated. One thing about vacuforming: a rudimentary machine can be built very easily ! I have one that uses a vacuum cleaner to provide vacuum. Heat is not generated in the machine but I need to heat the plastic externally. Crude but does the job ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mollythedog Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 20 06 11Thanks for the reply guys. But to be clear, what I want to do is NOT vac-forming as such. I don't have the means to do that. What I intend to do is to heat the plastic and then thump it down over a master I have created, hopefully making the canopy I need. I have a tiny section of the stuff Squadron used to sell ( donated by a mate .. the last of his stockpile) and am looking for more or similar in case I make a muck of it. I never thought of the clear front of cd jewel cases. That's the clear plastic front of the hard cases, right? Not the floppy see-through envelope types? Hmmmmm. Liam I had a similar need a little while ago too, and searched through some of the old posts on here. I found a very nice gent called John,who's member name is tigger. I got several sheets of .5mm and 1mm clear styrene off of him-it is crystal clear and plunge moulds really well-I tried various packaging ,and CD case plastic,but would have to say that the plastic I got from tigger was far better than anything else. I also glazed a large dolls house with it for my wife,it is crystal clear,easy to cut,and doesn't seem to be affected by static charges and dust the way a lot of this stuff is. I have no connection with the chap,just a very satisfied customer,and apart from the high cost of posting it here due to its weight it was very good value.If you are in the Uk this won't be a problem I would think. Hope that helps mtd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 John - Tigger actually does a bit of vacforming himself, and I think once offered to help out with people's ad hoc requirements on a commercial basis... I might be wrong there though, but no harm in asking I built myself a vacforming platform once as a test - I built a box from wood, with lots of holes cut in the top, and a large hole for a cheap vacuum cleaner to plug into . Then make a double frame that slips over the box and can be bolted together with wingnuts. Use that to hold the sheet, which you can either heat in the over or with a hot-air stripper gun, then drop the frame over the box with the vacuum cleaner switched on & see how it goes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mollythedog Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 John - Tigger actually does a bit of vacforming himself, and I think once offered to help out with people's ad hoc requirements on a commercial basis... I might be wrong there though, but no harm in asking I built myself a vacforming platform once as a test - I built a box from wood, with lots of holes cut in the top, and a large hole for a cheap vacuum cleaner to plug into . Then make a double frame that slips over the box and can be bolted together with wingnuts. Use that to hold the sheet, which you can either heat in the over or with a hot-air stripper gun, then drop the frame over the box with the vacuum cleaner switched on & see how it goes Sorry,couldn't remember if it was a big or little T in Tigger. bugger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heraldcoupe Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 (edited) There are lots of problems with clear plastics, not least that some become brittle with age, while others discolour badly. PETG appears to be the best option, it moulds easily and supposedly stays clear over time. None of mine has been around long enough to verify the latter, but it's formed well enough for me. PETG may be used in packaging, I've not done enough research in that area. I buy mine from Bay Plastics, but I don't know how that would work out for small quantities, Cheers, Bill. Edited June 20, 2011 by Heraldcoupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 PETG all the way Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonM Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Having just stumbled across this thread, is there a maximum size people have successfully crash moulded? I asked because I acquired a set of vacuform bulged bomb bay doors for a Mosquito in 1:48 so I can make B IV's that carried 4,000lb bombs. I've only got one and I had been thinking about trying to duplicate it. However I don't want to start and then ruin it and not be able to copy it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Look for the K&S range in an aero modelllers outlet they have a product called Buterite, better than sytrene for heat/crash/vac-form moulding. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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