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Tamiya Honda S2000 (1:24)


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Made a second start on this kit recently. First time was about 10 years ago (when I was going to buy the real thing, but didn't), and I managed to dissolve the body and floorpan. You can get individual spare sprues for Tamiya kits, but the cost was much more than a brand new complete kit. I managed to finally pick up a second hand one at Cosford for £10.

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I removed the parts from their sprues and removed the gates. Typical Tamiya precision - beautiful mouldings and a dry run shows it will pretty much fall together by itself.

5Ha7gEJZ.jpg

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I was going to use Zero metallic paint for this one. I had my doubts, and they turned out to be well founded. Here is the Zero paint items I bought (colur matched Honda Silverstone metallic):

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And, to cut a long story short, here is the result:

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Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear. Scale metallic flakes? Rubbish! Talk about am over hyped product. There is a separate thread on this issue here:

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.p...c=69319&hl=

I ended up stripping the Zero stuff off, and mixing my own colour using Citadel Myrthil Silver and Revell Aqua Black, followed by Lacquering. Far better result:

5hFnIkLb.jpg

The whole Zero paint system is hugely over complicated (and over rated) in my opinion. I never did get a reply to my complaint e-mail...

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What follows is a marathon masking session: Everything on the floorpan apart form the mudguards, prop shaft, cable conduit, fuel tank and sill covers had to be masked. Bit tedious, but a good result. Tamiya masking tape of course.

XsZgO0uh.jpg

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The engine and gearbox still need painting aluminium.

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It's surprising how even an OOB, unweathered model takes me ages to complete these days. Ten years or so ago, when I was building 1:20 F1 cars I could have one finished in a couple of evenings. These are the chassis and body component parts painted:

hdRmNxQi.jpg

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I then used MIG Dark Wash in the aluminium castings, and Tamiya gunmetal mascara on the black suspension components:

uae6fNKR.jpg

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Halfords Aluminium was a good match for the 'plated' components such as exhaust trims, wheels and gear knob. These items needed touching in where they were removed form the sprues.

Edited by dr_gn
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I should have mentioned that this is a bit of a retrospective build log! I started the model last month, but this is where I am now:

oYS2LUxi.jpg

I was going to try flocking for the carpets, but just couldn't be motivated to find a supplier of the right colour. I decided to use a slightly darker red than on the actual car, becasue I think it's too garish. Call it modeller's license! To try and simulate different materials, I used different finishes: Matt for the carpets and satin for the leather and vinyl. I mixed Humbrol Bright red Acrylic with Tamiya Satin black for The reds, and overcoated with either Humbrol Matt spray, Vallejo Satin or Klear. I also used preshading and MIG dark wash on the leather seats and door inserts.

Eiiccu46.jpg

There is a lot of detail painting involved, many parts have different colours, and so I had to do a lot of masking and airbrushing; brush painting just doesn't give a good enough finish when you're used to seeing airbrushed results!

WA6dglJC.jpg

Need to detail the internal door latches, handles and window buttons, apply the self adhesive chrome badges and then it's final assembly time.

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That's just brilliant.

Mind you, if I tried it, I'd lose one or two crucial bits after cutting them off the runners...

I'm looking forward to seeing it done - it looks like you're on the home stretch!

bestest,

M.

Thanks! I finished it tonight, just needs a final polish with Auto Glym and I'll post some pics.

I actually have the majority of parts duplicated - I scrapped the oroginal body and floorpan about 10 years ago after a painting disaster. I bought an entire replacement kit at Cosford last month for £10 and canibalised it. So if anyone needs any spares , just let me know!

Cheers.

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Just saw your link from the RFI thread about your experience with Zero paints. I must say that the only problem I have with Hiroboy is his flat refusal to answer emails!He says that as he's a one man band (well that's what he used to say, don't know if it still holds true) that he just didn't have time. Whatever, as regards the flake size in his metallics, I fully agree with you that any Zero paint listed as a 'metallic', in my experience, has way over-scale flakes, & I believe they may just be de-canted full size automotive paints. However, he also sells Pearl & Mica 'metallics', & they both have much finer flakes (as do full size car paints - the only metallic Halfords paint that I'll ever use on a model has to be a pearl, & they don't look too bad) The last time I got to speak to Steve (Hiroboy) at a show, he told me he could mix any colour with Mica flakes - as long as you ask for it. Which then comes back to the problem of communicating with him! I've tried to order a paint listed as a metallic but with mica flakes through his website, & despite asking for said Mica flakes it came back as an ordinary metallic! So possibly that's what he's alluding to when he talks about 're-engineering' metallics?

As to spraying them, I'm surprised you had problems, to me they are by far the easiest paint I've ever tried to spray!

Keef

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Just saw your link from the RFI thread about your experience with Zero paints. I must say that the only problem I have with Hiroboy is his flat refusal to answer emails!He says that as he's a one man band (well that's what he used to say, don't know if it still holds true) that he just didn't have time. Whatever, as regards the flake size in his metallics, I fully agree with you that any Zero paint listed as a 'metallic', in my experience, has way over-scale flakes, & I believe they may just be de-canted full size automotive paints. However, he also sells Pearl & Mica 'metallics', & they both have much finer flakes (as do full size car paints - the only metallic Halfords paint that I'll ever use on a model has to be a pearl, & they don't look too bad) The last time I got to speak to Steve (Hiroboy) at a show, he told me he could mix any colour with Mica flakes - as long as you ask for it. Which then comes back to the problem of communicating with him! I've tried to order a paint listed as a metallic but with mica flakes through his website, & despite asking for said Mica flakes it came back as an ordinary metallic! So possibly that's what he's alluding to when he talks about 're-engineering' metallics?

As to spraying them, I'm surprised you had problems, to me they are by far the easiest paint I've ever tried to spray!

Keef

Keef,

As you probably read in my Zero thread, I did speak to him in some detail about the different types of paint he does, the scale of the car and the effect I wanted. There couldn't have been any doubt about what I expected.

As far as e-mails - he was quite happy to take my money via e-mail, so why not my initial questions and subsequent complaints? If you put an e-mail address on your website, isn't it only fair to respond to e-mails?

At the end of the day, he's lost a customer, and has gained someone who'll give bad reviews to anyone who asks...

Cheers.

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As you probably read in my Zero thread, I did speak to him in some detail about the different types of paint he does, the scale of the car and the effect I wanted. There couldn't have been any doubt about what I expected.

Yes, that's what I thought too when I asked for the paint to be mixed with Mica flakes....

As far as e-mails - he was quite happy to take my money via e-mail, so why not my initial questions and subsequent complaints? If you put an e-mail address on your website, isn't it only fair to respond to e-mails?

I couldn't agree more. And I don't go along with some peoples 'he's always available at the end of the line,just give him a ring' argument. No thanks, I just want a reply to my e-mail!

At the end of the day, he's lost a customer, and has gained someone who'll give bad reviews to anyone who asks...

Well, if I ever find where I've left my car modelling mojo (problem is I don't know what one of those is, so don't know what I'm looking for!!) I'll certainly still buy Zero paints (I really do using like the solid colours) - but just not the metallic ones! I've always avoided doing a metallic paint job wherever possible, simply because of the flake sizes in most paints. As I said I think Pearl is OK, mica is better but I still think they are all overscale for 1/24th. Maybe Kyle's plamo metallics are the way to go. And your Mithral based finish is also very good and worth pursuing! But I'm not really likely to build anything to try them on for a while....

ATB

Keef

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Yes, that's what I thought too when I asked for the paint to be mixed with Mica flakes....

I couldn't agree more. And I don't go along with some peoples 'he's always available at the end of the line,just give him a ring' argument. No thanks, I just want a reply to my e-mail!

Well, if I ever find where I've left my car modelling mojo (problem is I don't know what one of those is, so don't know what I'm looking for!!) I'll certainly still buy Zero paints (I really do using like the solid colours) - but just not the metallic ones! I've always avoided doing a metallic paint job wherever possible, simply because of the flake sizes in most paints. As I said I think Pearl is OK, mica is better but I still think they are all overscale for 1/24th. Maybe Kyle's plamo metallics are the way to go. And your Mithral based finish is also very good and worth pursuing! But I'm not really likely to build anything to try them on for a while....

ATB

Keef

Keef,

Must admit I had second thoughts about painting it metallic in the end, but I thought I'd use it as an experiment. It looks OK in daylight! There was a guy on my other thread who said he did invisible flake metallics, which I will try in future - might even be the mica stuff, but at this scale it's probably better.

Cheers!

This is possibly of absolutely no use, but just in case...

Liquitex do a mica acrylic medium.

Whether it is of any use for automotive modelling I have no idea.

Looks superb Doc

Ta Walrus!

I think you're right - mica is probably the way to go at this scale. You live and learn.

Cheers.

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