Col. Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Good job on the decals Karl. Those look like a potental nightmare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Yep, that's a very neat job - those decals put me off doing that option! Keef Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbuna Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Looking really great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenMG Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Karl, one thing I forgot to mention previously but which I've been reminded about looking at your photos is that the Hunter only had a trim tab on the port aileron rather than both as depicted by Academy. Sorry, it's a bit late to fix it now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Karl, one thing I forgot to mention previously but which I've been reminded about looking at your photos is that the Hunter only had a trim tab on the port aileron rather than both as depicted by Academy.Sorry, it's a bit late to fix it now. Interesting - that's an asymmetry I wouldn't have expected. Might have to live with that as I'll probably make more of a mess trying to fix it.. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted August 21, 2011 Author Share Posted August 21, 2011 (edited) I've posted this in a thread regarding Academy decals already, but I'm posting it here also as it is part of my build process. I'm using the Academy decals to depict Hawker Hunter F.6 XE597, and I'm having good and bad results. Generally the decals seem quite thick, however they also appear to be quite fragile as a number of them broke apart during application. The chequerboard decals for the tail went on perfectly though - fortunately. I thought that this was because I was using Microsol and wasn't sure if they were reacting badly to that, however I stopped using it and they still kept breaking so I'm not sure if it was the Microsol causing damage. All the decals were applied to a bed of wet Klear to help keep them stuck down and to help prevent silvering. Another issue I had is the fact that the smaller roundels were printed a bit out of register; the red spot was not in the centre, and they were slightly out of proportion, so I had to use some spares for the under wing roundels. The only spares of the right size came from an Airfix Buccaneer, but were a different shade of blue and red so I mixed some Xtracolor roundel blue with a little black to match the existing decals and hand painted the blue part of the roundel. I applied the centre spot (also the wrong red) and I mixed a more appropriate shade of red and hand painted this. All of the stencils were applied, many of them broke up but I simply (carefully) pushed them together and set them in place with Klear. Next step is to over spray with a satin finish to bring the gloss down. Karl Edited August 21, 2011 by Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 This is exactly what I want to read about. I'm learning a lot from you. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
periklis_sale Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 Great work mate! :worthy::worthy: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 ^^^ Uh-huh... me wholly agrees with the Hellenic bloke's statement above, who in turn is yet another obsessed modeller from hell! Quite a compliment for yer build, Karlie, comin' from such a madman! Incidentally, Karl; how much did ya add to both the main 'n' nose wheels widthwise, mate? , my mate! Unc² Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted August 23, 2011 Author Share Posted August 23, 2011 ^^^ Uh-huh... me wholly agrees with the Hellenic bloke's statement above, who in turn is yet another obsessed modeller from hell! Quite a compliment for yer build, Karlie, comin' from such a madman! Incidentally, Karl; how much did ya add to both the main 'n' nose wheels widthwise, mate? , my mate! Unc² Hi Unc², The original Academy main wheels were about 12.5mm diameter, I increased the diameter to about 16.1mm and the width to 3.5mm (the tyre) with the hub it brings it out to about 4mm. I didn't measure the nose gear before I started modifying it, but it's now 10.1mm diameter and about 2.8mm width. Cheers Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousAA72 Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 Coming along nicely Karl - Brave man using the Academy decals..I'm afraid the roundels are proportioned wrongly and the colours are well off - the serials are also in the wrong font as well - I suspect its too late though judging by your comments above. Hope your paint job has saved the day!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 I'm certainly not qualified to comment on how accurate any part of this kit is or how accurate the decals are, but she's looking fabulous!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted August 23, 2011 Author Share Posted August 23, 2011 (edited) Coming along nicely Karl - Brave man using the Academy decals..I'm afraid the roundels are proportioned wrongly and the colours are well off - the serials are also in the wrong font as well - I suspect its too late though judging by your comments above. Hope your paint job has saved the day!! Thanks Bill, I really wanted to use the Academy decal option and basically as much of the original kit as I could. I knew the decal proportions were well off for the smaller roundels, but the spares I used should be proportioned to the ratio 1:2:3. As for the big upper wing roundel there wasn't much I could do about these as I didn't have any spares of the correct size; the proportions are off a little but I don't think it's as bad as the smaller roundels were. I think they would be much better if I could get a slightly bigger red spot for the centre. I tried to cut a circle out of solid red decal sheet, but it just went ragged around the edge when I tried to apply it... I wonder if I cut another set of circles out of the red film and then coat them in decal film before I apply them, might stop them from going ragged... The font for the serial numbers I didn't know about at all.... is that for the under-wing serials, the tail or both..? Nothing I can do about that now, I suppose I couldn't have fixed the originals anyway only replaced them. Karl Edited August 23, 2011 by Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Thanks Bill,I really wanted to use the Academy decal option and basically as much of the original kit as I could. I knew the decal proportions were well off for the smaller roundels, but the spares I used should be proportioned to the ratio 1:2:3. As for the big upper wing roundel there wasn't much I could do about these as I didn't have any spares of the correct size; the proportions are off a little but I don't think it's as bad as the smaller roundels were. I think they would be much better if I could get a slightly bigger red spot for the centre. I tried to cut a circle out of solid red decal sheet, but it just went ragged around the edge when I tried to apply it... I wonder if I cut another set of circles out of the red film and then coat them in decal film before I apply them, might stop them from going ragged... The font for the serial numbers I didn't know about at all.... is that for the under-wing serials, the tail or both..? Nothing I can do about that now, I suppose I couldn't have fixed the originals anyway only replaced them. Karl Karl Don't know if it's too late, but, Hunter decals, ask John Adams of Aeroclub, [he's a site member and has a section as well] he did a sheet for his kits, one of roundels, the other of serials and stencils. You should be able to make up any Hunter serial from the sheet. I think he charged a whopping 2 quid for a set... Also, flightpath do a set. http://home.clara.net/djparkins/fltpath/fp...nter_decals.htm This is the sheet featured in our Hunter Detail & Weapons Set [above] and includes the following options:F.6 - 111 Sqn. - The ‘Black Arrows’ Display Team FGA.9s of Nos. 8 & 208 Sqns. - both from operations in Aden, 1961 GA.9 - 234 Sqn., No.1 Tactical Weapons Unit, RAF Brawdy, Circa 1984. This sheet features very thin carrier film and includes full stencilling details for both aircraft and stores. Flightpath also do an extensive but expensive Hunter set, http://home.clara.net/djparkins/fltpath/fp48pw_hunterf6.htm and http://home.clara.net/djparkins/fltpath/fp...ter_diorama.htm Hawker Hunter Diorama SetA set in cast metal and etched brass, giving you three items essential for your Hunter display - an Access Ladder, a Gun-Pack Trolley with Gun Pack Unit, and the characteristic Tow-Bar. maybe of use to other folks wanting to do Hunter's. HTH T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted September 11, 2011 Author Share Posted September 11, 2011 (edited) Decaling is now completed, I've used all of the required Academy decals - plus a few spares and a little 'slight of hand' to make the roundels a bit more in proportion; mostly replacing the centre red spot.. The decals have all been sealed in with an overcoat of Humbrol satin Clear cote to even out the finish. The kit's canopy also required a bit of a re-work; the kit part features a frame at the rear when the real thing actually is frame-less and sits slightly over the fuselage spine where the kit part sits in front of the fuselage spine. I did just intend to display it open, however it's too narrow to even fit over the spine so I intend to replace it with a vac form canopy shortly. However in the mean time I'll use the kit part in the closed position. All I've done is to carefully remove the rear frame with a sharp knife and then polish it smooth with the trusty finger-nail buffer stick. I then painted the canopy frame and dipped the whole thing (canopy and windscreen) in Klear to restore the shine. The kit part for probe on the port wing looked a bit flimsy so I replaced this with a brass rod of the appropriate length. Final assembly comprised of installing the landing gear and bay doors, fuel tanks and canopy. All complete and ready For Inspection Karl Edited September 11, 2011 by Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moofles Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 EPIC W.I.P thread, thanks for the build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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