Karl Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 Hey Karlie, mate! How's progress on yer F.6 build been goin' as of late? Any updates? Me's got one enquiry here with respect of "them" exhaust diameter enlargement: Say, do we need to add the same plastic wedge upside down on the opposite side of the exhaust cone? Check the white area outlined in red on the picture; is that another white plastic wedge by any chance? Me's been wonderin' aloud all day long now... Skull's steamin' already. Cheers, bloke! Unc² Hi Unc², sorry I've somehow missed your post! been busy on other things, non model related.... In answer to your question, no, we only need to install one wedge to the bottom of the intake. The upper triangle you highlighted is the inner moulding of the stubby bit that connects to the bottom of the vertical tail. This part is just glued together as per the instructions. Wait for the glue on this to harden and then you can tape it up to hold it secure. I then (very) gently splayed out the bottom and glued the triangle insert as pictured. The triangle is actually quite a bit thicker than the thickness of the kit part so when it's all set (the next day) you need to file and sand it to the same profile as the tail cone. Hope this helps and sorry again! Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 (edited) As I say, I've been a bit busy doing some other stuff. But now I'm back at the table again I've finished painting the cockpit. I thought matt black was just a bit too black so I painted it using the Xtracolor Tyre Black (very dark grey) instead. I picked out some details in black and some in a lighter grey-brown. I dry brushed the raised dial faces in a lighter grey and blobbed some Klear on the dial faces to simulate glass. The Neomega seat is black, highlighted using Xtracolor Tyre Black and the seat cushions and belts picked out in green and browns. The pull-handles are brass wire added before painting. Karl Edited June 23, 2011 by Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Glad to see you back at this one Karl. The 'pit looks grand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 The next area I've been working on is the intakes. Now a question - are Hunter intakes asymmetrical? - or is this another area of the kit that needs correcting? It wasn't obvious at first but I knew something wasn't right, but then it hit me: I've pictured them back to back to highlight the issue. The outer pointed edges of the intake are not the same; one is nicely pointed as I would expect but the other is much blunter. Is this how they should be? There is a picture of the intakes on the instruction sheet and they are exactly the same as mine OOB, so it's not a miss-moulding issue I don't think. You don't notice it as much when they are positioned as they should be, but now I know it's there.... If it's wrong I'll fix it - but is it wrong? Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Sorry to say but I'm pretty certain that's wrong. Not something I've seen noted as an issue with this kit before now but another to add on the list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenMG Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 ...but is it wrong? Yes, I'm afraid it's horribly wrong! Hunter intakes are symetrical and more pointed than these. The intakes in the Academy kit are the worst part of it after the cockpit in my opinion. They should be far less rounded at the outer corners than in the kit which is why a lot of people opt to fit intake covers to their models. Also the boundary later splitter plates are best chucked in the bin. They are too far from the fuselage, not curved and generally terrible looking. I'm convinced Academy had no idea what they were when they designed them. Similarly I don't think they realised the Hunter had a sliding canopy either - hence no hood rails. But I digress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Yes, I'm afraid it's horribly wrong! Hunter intakes are symetrical and more pointed than these. The intakes in the Academy kit are the worst part of it after the cockpit in my opinion. They should be far less rounded at the outer corners than in the kit which is why a lot of people opt to fit intake covers to their models. Also the boundary later splitter plates are best chucked in the bin. They are too far from the fuselage, not curved and generally terrible looking. I'm convinced Academy had no idea what they were when they designed them.Similarly I don't think they realised the Hunter had a sliding canopy either - hence no hood rails. But I digress! Figured as much to be honest, drat! - they are nicely glued hard.. The pointed end problem I don't think is going to be too hard to fix, but the boundary later splitter plates are going to be a bit more difficult as I've already glued them in place... There's always a way though Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moofles Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 seems like this is becoming a proper mission, coming together well though, and a wealth of infomation in this thread, keep up the great work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Hi Unc², sorry I've somehow missed your post! been busy on other things, non model related.... Hey, Karlie! Howdy, mate? Aw, ne'er mind; me's been a tad away from of BM as of late too. Top that off; I got an e-mail from Philippe Jacques of PJ Productions tellin' that his proposed 1/48 Hunter T.7 conversion kit won't be released this year... Also, he suggested the Academy FGA.9 kit - instead of the F.6 - the best option to graft his conversion set on to. Is there any difference between the 1/48 Academy F.6 'n' FGA.9 kits other than the round notch on the flaps? In answer to your question, no, we only need to install one wedge to the bottom of the intake. The upper triangle you highlighted is the inner moulding of the stubby bit that connects to the bottom of the vertical tail. This part is just glued together as per the instructions. Wait for the glue on this to harden and then you can tape it up to hold it secure. I then (very) gently splayed out the bottom and glued the triangle insert as pictured. The triangle is actually quite a bit thicker than the thickness of the kit part so when it's all set (the next day) you need to file and sand it to the same profile as the tail cone. Oh? Awlrighty then; me's gotten it now. Thank ya so very much for the explanation, Karl! Hope this helps and sorry again! Indeed! Thanks again, Karl. Ya're quite forgiven, my mate! Hope to see some progress very soon. Unc² Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheModeller Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Is there any difference between the 1/48 Academy F.6 'n' FGA.9 kits other than the round notch on the flaps? The FGA.9 kit also has the late style tailcone with the parachute fairing overhanging the jet-pipe, which will look OK, but the problem with that approach is that the T.7's had the same engine as the F.4 and had a smaller diameter jet-pipe than the F.6 and FGA.9. There are also some mods to make to the engine vent layout on top of the fuselage if you're that keen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 The FGA.9 kit also has the late style tailcone with the parachute fairing overhanging the jet-pipe, which will look OK, but the problem with that approach is that the T.7's had the same engine as the F.4 and had a smaller diameter jet-pipe than the F.6 and FGA.9. There are also some mods to make to the engine vent layout on top of the fuselage if you're that keen. Hi Unc² Glad The Modeller chipped in with a proper explanation, as I don't have the FGA.9 kit in the stash to check on. Thanks chaps Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 (edited) I've been working on that awkward intake-trunk to fuselage to wings joining. First thing was to modify the shape of the intakes on the wing; the kit shape is too square at the narrow end, so I've simply attempted to round them off and make them a better shape. Against the very good advice given by just about any one who has built this kit regarding the joining of the wings to the fuselage half and then joining the fuselage halves together, I decided to follow the sequence given in the instruction sheet; that is to mount the intake trunk in to the fuselage, join the fuselage halves together and then connect the wings to the fuselage later. I mounted the cockpit tub to the fuselage, then mounted the intake trunk to the same side. The jet pipe was mounted to the rear of the fuselage after modifying the mounting point to take account of the shorter (modified) tail cone. I then test-fit the other half of the fuselage to see how far out the intake trunk was. As it was, there was only a small gap and all I needed to do was to add some thick plastic rod and spread the intake trunk out a little so it matched the other fuselage half very well. The intake trunk has been painted roughly (I wanted to reach all the way inside) as I'll need to fill and sand this area when the wings are finally attached and then I'll paint it properly. After gluing the fuselage halves together and allowing them to set, I've test fit the wings to the fuselage and the fit quite well, with only minor gaps around the fuselage-wing joint area; these were present even when I test fit the wing to the fuselage only so I was expecting this. Test fit of the wings: Question - is there an issue with the shape of the leading edge of the wing / dog-tooth? I remember that there was some re-shaping to do... Karl Edited July 10, 2011 by Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce3371 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I do enjoy reading builds like this, they're always so usefull for hints and tips. I'll carry on reading this me thinks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Hi Karl! Been waitin' so eagerly for another update on this build. Noice work on the intakes, mate! Me thinks I'll also do it yer way instead of the way advised otherwise. Question - is there an issue with the shape of the leading edge of the wing / dog-tooth? I remember that there was some re-shaping to do... Well, Edgar mentioned that the anhedral angle on the Hunter's wing is -1 degree. Also, that there's an optical illusion mainly owin' to a "droop" of the leadin' edge extensions which follow the curve of the upper wing surface, then curl under, and climb back up to the original under surface. Said Edgar that this gives the front underside of the wing the appearance of a very flattened and rounded "W," which was another fault of the Academy kit, since the extensions are made to stick straight out on it, and it ain't easy to fix. Dunno whether this is whut ya were referrin' to, but Edgar provided me with this piccy here: Hope it helps. Followin' yer thread with interest as well, Karlie! Cheers, Unc² Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 The fuselage is coming together now - after test fitting the wings I attached them on to the fuselage pretty much as per the instructions. I think what helped avoid any nasty alignment issues was making sure that the intake trunking was lined up and centred in the fuselage, with that brace to spread the trunking to the correct width of the fuselage. The tail planes have been moved 3mm forward and the tail bullet has been reduced in length by 3mm, plus the tail-cone has been attached I'm still in the process of filling and sanding all of the joints in these next two pictures. The nose and gun-pack have also been installed and packed out with lead nose weight encased in Milliput. Karl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 The tail planes have been moved 3mm forward and the tail bullet has been reduced in length by 3mm Karl! It doesn't quite show on the pictures; how did ya do to move the tail planes forward? Moved the plates as well? 'N' as for the tail bullet, where exactly on it did ya cut in order to reduce its lenght? Yer build's startin' to look like an F.6! Cheers, mate! Unc² Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share Posted July 29, 2011 Karl! It doesn't quite show on the pictures; how did ya do to move the tail planes forward? Moved the plates as well? 'N' as for the tail bullet, where exactly on it did ya cut in order to reduce its lenght? Yer build's startin' to look like an F.6! Cheers, mate! Unc² Hi Unc² I didn't take a picture of me chopping it up, however with the magic of Microsoft paint..... I cut 3mm off the tab that you insert in to the slot in the vertical tail (the green shaded area in the pic) and then fitted the tail plane up to the front of the cut area, thus making the tail plane 3mm forward. The tail bullet was cut with a razor saw at the red line, and I removed 3mm from the remainder of the bullet. I sanded it and glued it back together making sure it was all straight and flush. Cheers Unc. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 Quick update - no pictures! I've masked off the cockpit area and I've sprayed a coat of Halfords Grey primer. This has revealed (as usual) a couple of areas that need a little more attention with the old filler and sanding routine, mostly around the joint area of the tail cone and fuselage. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Time to break out the air-brush...!! I've lightly sanded the Halfords primer with some 1500 grit sand paper to take off any roughness from the primer, I then sprayed on a couple of coats of Humbrol H164 dark sea grey. My usual way to do the disruptive pattern camouflage is to pencil in the outline of the green areas on top of the grey and then brush paint the green areas with thinned Humbrol H163 dark green. I do about three or so coats of thin paint over about as many nights to build up a nice colour coat whilst allowing plenty of drying time. I've tried to mask it and then spray but I never seem to get it right, but I'm happy to do it this way, besides I quite like the brush painting job - takes me back to my early days of model making! Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 I've got a little question regarding my above pictures and progress - posted here on BM All help greatly appreciated. Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Yer Hunter's lookin' awesome, Karl! Darn beautiful! Congratulations, my mate. Hmph... that's clever. Me'd have surely cut the whole plates off the tail in order to move 'em 3mm forward, then attach the elevators, methinks. Thanks for the tip, lad! Ya're member #4? Wow... Can't help ya out with yer enquiry; sorry, bloke. Karlie! Unc² Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
periklis_sale Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 looking great so far mate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 After marking out the camo pattern, I brushed on about three coats of Humbrol H163 dark green (thinned 60/40 paint/thinner to avoid brush marks) in to the marked out areas, leaving about 24 hours between coats. When this was dry, I masked off the upper surface with tape and paper mask's and then sprayed on Xtracolor X038 High Speed Silver. When all was dry, I gave the whole aircraft a coat of Klear to gloss the surface for decaling. I'm looking now at the interesting decal's for the tail of this aircraft; the yellow and black chequerboard pattern. I like the way it has applied to the silver under surfaces of the tail so I might mark out where the decal's will sit on the top and vertical tail and paint these surfaces silver before applying the remaining chequerboard decals, this should give the difficult yellow a nice bright surface to sit on. Karl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Lovely paintwork Karl. Not long until you add this one to the display cabinet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 I've been working on applying what I thought would be a quite awkward set of decals; the black and yellow chequerboard tail decal and I was quite surprised that it went on very easily. I had previously painted the tail high speed silver to give a bright surface for the yellow to sit on. I had to modify the vertical decal slightly to accommodate the horizontal stabiliser being 3mm further forward, but other than that I applied them one at a time and set them on a layer of Klear to make sure they kept stuck down. Something I noticed when looking at the couple of reference pictures I have of XE597 is that the vertical chequerboard decal does not extend all the way to the end of the tail as it should but ends in the same line as the rudder. To compensate I painted the remainder of the tail Humbrol H154 Insignia Yellow and then marked out the remainder of the pattern and painted them black. It was then just a matter of touching up the remaining areas that did not quite match up. Karl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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