Fifer54 Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 (edited) After much deliberation I have decided to build my contribution to this GB from Italeri's 1/48 Red Arrows Hawk. This very one, in fact... The sprues look like this... The box also contains an etched fret (never used etch before, don't want to ) And those Italeri photographic plans and a nice decal sheet ! More soon! Edited July 10, 2011 by MadNurseGaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 This kit has been started now, just a bit of painting, minor building of sub-assemblies, but nothing to show photos of! My first impression is that the plastic is lovely, it fits together nicely, even for a sausagefingers like me! The instructions, however, are 5h1te. Colour callouts are ModelMaster only, and hit-and-miss at that, there's no guidance AT ALL on how to work with the etched fret, no colour guidance on the seat harness or IP.There are separate decals to use on the IP and side consoles depending on whether one uses the etch or not, but the plans (nonsensically) illustrate positioning the side console decals UNDERNEATH the etch parts, where they'll be invisible. I know all this info is easily available, but come on, this is a Red Arrows kit, and as such is liable to be bought by casual modellers, or people who like the Reds, more than by hobbyist modellers. I've painted the etch parts in primer, so I'll topcoat the IPs. I've still got to work out how to position the IP decal so it lines up with the etch IP on the plastic panel. I think I'll have to apply the decal to the back of the etch IP. What does anybody think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smark Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Hi MadNurseGaz, I’m not over keen on etch my self, however I did go for that option on my build. You will need to put your decals on to the plastic parts (22A and 27A) and then the etched parts need to be carefully glued on top of that. To Align the decals with the etch I just teased them into position, checking and double checking, by superimposing the etch on top. Before applying the decals I undercoated the plastic IP’s with white and Kleared them to make them nice and glossy, so that the decals would easily slide on them. Another way would be to temporarily ‘tack’ the etch on top of the plastic parts and then spray paint, or place a mark through the dial holes. Then, when you remove the etch you will be left with an accurate imprint on which to place the decals. Before fixing the etch permanently in place, I applied a couple of coats of Klear over the decals to simulate the glass. Obviously take care when gluing as you don’t want it squishing out over the dials! I used a touch of superglue applied with a sewing needle placed here and there. You could also use Gator glue as the excess can be removed with a damp cotton bud. I also just used the etch provided for the consoles on their own. After painting they received a paynes grey oil wash and were highlighted with a dry brush. I did however, scratch a simple throttle quadrant and lever to fit in the ‘cut-out’. If you try it and all goes wrong just clean up the plastic parts, prep them again and just use the decal option. Alternatively, just use the decal option any way, especially if you intend to have the canopy closed: I’ve just had a look at my build and to be honest the etch doesn’t offer much more in the way of detail. Hope all makes sense (and not too much teaching granny how to suck eggs), Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 That's great, Mark. Thanks for that advice, I've never attempted etch before, and I was beginning to think "etch IPs and harness, decal consoles" might be the way forward... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 After what seems like forever, there's finally some progress on this one! I've been struggling to motivate myself to build anything but seem to have cheered up this weekend and got some modelling done. I've finished the Revell Lightning I was building, I'm nearing the end of my Harrier FA.2 for the Harrier STGB, and I've actually done a bit on this! The fuselage is closed up. The wings are assembled. And here they are... I'm pleased with the way the 'pit turned out, it looks far better than I expected (and it photographed well, too!) right, fill fill, sand sand on the intakes next... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muller Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I'm pretty much at the same stage myself with this kit, mine's not red plastic though. The cockpit is looking great. I hope you stuck some weight in the nose! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 I'm pretty much at the same stage myself with this kit, mine's not red plastic though. The cockpit is looking great. I hope you stuck some weight in the nose! Yup, remembered this time!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 looking good gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Thanks, Mark, I really appreciate that coming from a Hawk guru like you (don't deny it!) I've got more to show you now, the basic airframe is together and the red plastic has been painted grey so that I can paint it red again! Here she is and from below I made a novice error with the canopy though! Broke it off the sprue and a large chunk of the frame stayed on the runner... So I've glued it back onto the sprue and will cut it off and sand the stub flush next time! I do think she's beginning to look (a bit) like a Hawk... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 getting there mate, i tip for the future dont stick all the aerials and fiddly bits on til the end cos a garauntee they will get broke off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham T Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 getting there mate, i tip for the future dont stick all the aerials and fiddly bits on til the end cos a garauntee they will get broke off You are entirely correct. For me it's always a trade off: attach them early & risk it or attach them at the end & risk ruining the pint job with cement/CA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 You are entirely correct. For me it's always a trade off: attach them early & risk it or attach them at the end & risk ruining the pint job with cement/CA. I agree. I'm still trying to decide which is better... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 there only one way to find out .... FIGHT!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Moving swiftly on... She's RED again!! That's Vallejo Carmine Red, by the way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 Right, now that she's glossy again (How many coats of Klear?) I've begun to think about decalling the beast. <Rant mode> Once again the shortcomings of Italeri's 5h1te instructions come to the fore (or maybe it's really my lack of foresight!) On contemplating model and decals, it appears to me that some of the underwing decals need to be applied to the wing before the flap actuator fairings are added, and that other decals need to be applied to the flaps before they are affixed to the aforementioned flap actuator fairings. This (which it would have been useful to have had pointed out) is not mentioned AT ALL in the instructions. Perhaps I should have foreseen this, but in the case of this particular kit, I believe that not giving the builder every piece of information they need to produce the best model they can from this kit, is unforgivable. This is a kit of a Red Arrows Hawk, ffs, it'll be bought by grannies for 9-year-old Jimmy so he can build the plane he saw at the airshow. They'll sell more of them to casual buyers as gifts for Red Arrows fans than they will to modellers (All the modellers will buy the 1/32 Revell one!) <Rant mode off> So, I'm contemplating my next move to proceed ... I know, I'll do something on my Phantom for that GB! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham77 Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 I'm building the same jet and was happily following this thread and putting it together as the instructions say. Having read the post above I went and had a quick look at the decals and am glad I left the hinges off last night rather than quickly sticking them on. Although now my head hurts trying to work out how to build paint and decal in the best order to get this finished off. Yours is looking really good and I hope you find a way to fit the decals around the hinges rather than underneath them. (maybe photocopy or scan the decals and make a paper template you can trim and then use to cut the kit decals???). Out of interest have you put any of the white decals over the red paint yet and did the red bleed through the decal? Looking forward to seeing it finished off very grateful of having one of the pitfalls of these instructions pointed out as it would have caught me out in a day or two. Good Luck Graham (If you have already cut up the decal sheet and you would like it scanned let me know and I'll sort out a copy for you) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 I'm building the same jet and was happily following this thread and putting it together as the instructions say. Having read the post above I went and had a quick look at the decals and am glad I left the hinges off last night rather than quickly sticking them on. Although now my head hurts trying to work out how to build paint and decal in the best order to get this finished off. Yours is looking really good and I hope you find a way to fit the decals around the hinges rather than underneath them. (maybe photocopy or scan the decals and make a paper template you can trim and then use to cut the kit decals???). Out of interest have you put any of the white decals over the red paint yet and did the red bleed through the decal? Looking forward to seeing it finished off very grateful of having one of the pitfalls of these instructions pointed out as it would have caught me out in a day or two.Good Luck Graham (If you have already cut up the decal sheet and you would like it scanned let me know and I'll sort out a copy for you) Thanks, Graham. I'd never have thought of making a template for the decal editing. I'll have a go at that. Thanks for the offer of a scan of the decal sheet, mine is pretty much intact still, I've only removed the decals used inside the cockpit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 I've started decalling. I'm not putting up any pictures yet, cos it's early days with the decals... BUT, I can report, for the benefit of anyone else building this kit and not yet decalling, that there is NO bleed-through of red colour through the white of the decals. The white is bright and shows NO pink. The decals respond well to MicroSet and MicroSol, but do tend to "grab" the surface where they're applied, needing lots of water and/or solution to move them around. At last, something positive to report! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Right, now that she's glossy again (How many coats of Klear?) I've begun to think about decalling the beast. <Rant mode> Once again the shortcomings of Italeri's 5h1te instructions come to the fore (or maybe it's really my lack of foresight!) On contemplating model and decals, it appears to me that some of the underwing decals need to be applied to the wing before the flap actuator fairings are added, and that other decals need to be applied to the flaps before they are affixed to the aforementioned flap actuator fairings. This (which it would have been useful to have had pointed out) is not mentioned AT ALL in the instructions. Perhaps I should have foreseen this, but in the case of this particular kit, I believe that not giving the builder every piece of information they need to produce the best model they can from this kit, is unforgivable. This is a kit of a Red Arrows Hawk, ffs, it'll be bought by grannies for 9-year-old Jimmy so he can build the plane he saw at the airshow. They'll sell more of them to casual buyers as gifts for Red Arrows fans than they will to modellers (All the modellers will buy the 1/32 Revell one!) <Rant mode off> So, I'm contemplating my next move to proceed ... I know, I'll do something on my Phantom for that GB! /quote] I made the same schoolboy error when helping my daughter make her Airfix 1/72nd red Arrow. Poor instructions for the casual buyer but I still feel I should have spotted this. Still it hasn't put her off and we are starting a build of a pair of 1/48th scale Hawks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basosz Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 I've built Italeri's 48th Red Arrows Hawk but the plastic was a different colour, but it should be the same kit right? Anyways... I had the same thing with the decals and the flap hinges and the instructions not mentioning anything about this so I decided not to do the bottom decals (Yeah I know... chicken) and just make everyone watch the thing from up top. Made my life a whole lot easier. My decals did bleefd a bit of red but I'm not too bothered. Worst thing for was that the decal for the white strip from the intake to the back wasn't long enough and it didn't look like a printing error cause both sides were exactly the same. Here's what mine looks like: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 Wow, that looks good, Basosz! I understand what you're saying about the kit, but looking at your pictures, I'm not convinced that they are the same kit! I see no sign on your model of a separate rudder, the panel lines behind the canopy look different to mine, and the detail seen inside the u/c doors is different. I think Italeri must have retooled this at some point. Mine has a later Red Arrows paint scheme as well... Yours still looks good, some good work there... I've nearly finished the decalling now, there's only the "Arrowhead" under the wings to do- it's made up of 18 separate decals- and that's before I start cutting them up to fit round flap actuators! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 I think it's time for some more pictures, cos she looks significantly different from last time. Here she is, decals applied, including that pesky arrowhead underneath her! That arrowhead, including the underfuselage bit, consists of 22 separate decals... And that's before I started cutting it up to fit round flap actuators! So, there's just the canopy and then final assembly. Still lots of opportunity for things to go wrong! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 She's looking every scale inch the display team bird so far and those jigsaw puzzle decals have worked out grand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Thanks, Col. Well, the bird is finished! Here she is!: More pix in the gallery! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 looks good GAZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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