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Will be building thge Airfix "gift set" kit in the colours of No 20 Sqn, RAF Wittering 2001.... may build in flight for a bit of variation, if not will have plenty of time to look at doing more in the cockpit and parking her up....

not sure when I will; start her but photos when I do......

PS.. the small pots of paints you get in such a small kit:

1) acryllic or enamel

2) if acryllic can I thin with water

if they are acryllic may see if i can use them (at least for thelight blue tail) to see how they handle vs enamel.....

Edited by robw_uk
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Will be building thge Airfix "gift set" kit in the colours of No 20 Sqn, RAF Wittering 2001.... may build in flight for a bit of variation, if not will have plenty of time to look at doing more in the cockpit and parking her up....

not sure when I will; start her but photos when I do......

PS.. the small pots of paints you get in such a small kit:

1) acryllic or enamel

2) if acryllic can I thin with water

if they are acryllic may see if i can use them (at least for thelight blue tail) to see how they handle vs enamel.....

Hi Rob

They're humbrol acrylics and can be thinned with water.

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Hi Rob, nice choice. As Paul says they can be thinned with water. Don't use Acrylics much myself, not with brushes anyway, I think the trick is to go for several quite thin coats to get the required coverage.

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Rob, as others have said tey thin with water, and a drop of retarder improves the paint a lot.

However the paint that comes in the small pots in Airfix kits is probably one of the worst acrylic paint I've used ! If you don't have good results with these, don't dismiss all acrylic paints, the good ones are brilliant !

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thanks guys - will probs only use it for the blue tail as dont need to buy a full tin for that then... the rest I will see.... it will be airbrudshed so guess water is all that is needed (or do I still need retarder and washing liquid)

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If you airbrush, you will need retarder even more ! With a brush, when the paint starts to set on the brush you can dip it in water, with an airbrush you can't and the paint will clog the tip. Adding a few drops of retarder before spraying will solve the problem.

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If you airbrush, you will need retarder even more ! With a brush, when the paint starts to set on the brush you can dip it in water, with an airbrush you can't and the paint will clog the tip. Adding a few drops of retarder before spraying will solve the problem.

thanks for that - noted

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  • 2 weeks later...

this is on hold while I build in the OOB GB (shorter GB run time than this one..... will be back mid May I would think)

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quick question guys.... the kit I am building comes with a black "in flight" stand... now I would like to try posing this one with pilot but the instructions dont say where the holes are to mount the stand... anyone got anything that can show me?

thanks

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  • 4 weeks later...

finally set to start on this so box/sprue shots in preparation..... basic kit really but being built OOB and in-flight... will do a bit of reasearch on weathering...

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Looking forward to seeing your progress Rob! I'm doing the Revell 1:144 version of this aircraft, from the same Squadron as well! :)

J.

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Looking forward to seeing your progress Rob! I'm doing the Revell 1:144 version of this aircraft, from the same Squadron as well! :)

J.

argh Jason is following me ;-) cheers mate... am looking for ref photos now and hmmmm maybe a bit of scratchbuilding will be included (not a huge amount but a little) - like i said, being built in flight so no wheels.... and found some really muck examples so this one could go the way of the F/A-18C for weathering.....

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Glad you've made it over here Rob, looking forward to seeing your build progress!

cheers Doug.... a little progress... man is off the sprue and base of mid green painted... going to do some pin washing & dry brushing to bring him a little bit more to life... started to paint the cockpit and the white internals (air intakes back to the fan.... gawd the supplied airfix acylics are bad.... know for a fact I am going to raid Relish Modles for the equivalent in MM for the airframe...... also put together the thrust outlets and the fuel tanks (she is not going to be fully loaded, just fuel (and maybe the 20mm(?) canon underneath). Alsi glued the wing halves together, boy are there some big gaps to fill...

anyway photos when there is a little bit more progress

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As has been said further up the thread, those Airfix Gift Set Acrylics are just terrible. I used them for the 'Welcome Aboard' Dr. Who Tardis kit I built and I ended up posting this advice on the IPMS Ireland Forum :

I have the following tips about using Humbrol Acrylics :

1. Don't.

2. If you have to, make sure you write the number of the paint on the pot, as the number that comes printed on it rubs off very easily.

3. Break the 'hinge' of the lid as soon as you can, 'cos it will break itself anyhow, and at least if you break it deliberately you'll have some control over it.

I replaced all the colours I could in the Tardis set ( with Revell Aqua Colours ) and only used the ones that weren't easy to replace. I'd advise you to do the same, it'll save you a lot of hassle and pain. And as also said earlier, don't judge Acrylics by these!

J.

Edited by Jasonb13
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As has been said further up the thread, those Airfix Gift Set Acrylics are just terrible. I used them for the 'Welcome Aboard' Dr. Who Tarids kit I built and I ended up posting this advice on the IPMS Ireland Forum :

I have the following tips about using Humbrol Acrylics :

1. Don't.

2. If you have to, make sure you write the number of the paint on the pot, as the number that comes printed on it rubs off very easily.

3. Break the 'hinge' of the lid as soon as you can, 'cos it will break itself anyhow, and at least if you break it deliberately you'll have some control over it.

I replaced all the colours I could in the Tardis set ( with Revell Aqua Colours ) and only used the ones that weren't easy to replace. I'd advise you to do the same, it'll save you a lot of hassle and pain. And as also said earlier, don't judge Acrylics by these!

J.

lol - number 1 is by far the best advice.... am at work so have left the first bits drying... will see just how bad they look when I get home (cockpit will probably get left cos you cant see squat anyway - white air intakes probably cleaned off and painted with my normal enamel)... the rest will get replaced with Model Master enamel (my current paint of choice)

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Yep, number 1 really is the best advice!

I've realised that a Hawk I'll be building ( the Mk120D in the three tone demonstrator colours ) will have paint that'll have to match the decals very closely, so I'm thinking I might have to get Humbrol paint for that. I can only hope that the 'proper' Humbrol Acrylics are better than the gift set ones...

J.

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still owe you guys some photos but more progress.... cockpit done, fuselage buttoned up (going to fix the nozzles and tail in place so not using the plug thnigies to allow them to move)... was pleasantly suprised by the lack of gaps in the fuselage - yes there will need to be some filling/saniding but after the wings I was expecting a lot more - and dry fitting of the wings only shows one gap (under the LERX) so that again is a nice bonus......

photos soon I promise

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qq just come to mind... if I was just doing in-flight air testing type model, would that just be 2x fuel tanks (so not on nop or exercise) and "stabilisers" (not sure what they are but they seem to be optional on the underside where the 20mm canon usually go). am assuming an air test flight would not go out fully loaded?

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Nice build here, I built the original boxing days after it first came out in the 90's in the 2 tone green scheme. I bought the kit in my local Beatties, but unlike the company my kit still survives to this day!

A quick bit of advice for you, if you're building the 20 sqn display version, you'll need to put on the LIDS on the underside not the cannon housings, as all the pics I've seen show this particular fit. Hope this is useful to you.

Regards,

Mark.

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Nice build here, I built the original boxing days after it first came out in the 90's in the 2 tone green scheme. I bought the kit in my local Beatties, but unlike the company my kit still survives to this day!

A quick bit of advice for you, if you're building the 20 sqn display version, you'll need to put on the LIDS on the underside not the cannon housings, as all the pics I've seen show this particular fit. Hope this is useful to you.

Regards,

Mark.

Cheers MArk.. it is actually going along quite smoothly. I assume the LIDS are the thinner elements (what I referred to as "stabilisers" - like fins)...... it will have 2x fuel tanks but empty pylons for the rest (and nothing centre line s that is where the black display stand will be attached

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