Decal solution for Tamiya decals

[AdriaN (MLT)]

Guys, im decalling my first tamiya kit. i came to apply my first decal and i simply cudnt get it to snuggle down nicely no matter how much i pressed. The panel lines under the decal do not show through. It also kept moving around.

I usually use model Master solvent solution since I build a lot of revell kits and their decals are thin & the solution works fine.

What solution can i use that will really soften the decal and make it conform to any shape and not loose detail??

What do you tamiya builders use??

My model is full of decals!

Edited April 12, 2011 by AdriaN (MLT)

[oggy4624]

Mr Mark softer by Gunze

http://www.plajapan.com/product_info.php?products_id=272

I got mine from HLJ, but they don't stock it now

[darson]

Micro Sol & Micro Set always work wonders with tamiya decals, just be prepared for multiple applications of Micro Sol to get the buggers to snuggle down properly.

[AdriaN (MLT)]

Ok thanks. But in both solutions mentioned, do you apply to decal and leave alone & let it work its wonderes or apply on decal and press down?

*Oggy have you used it on tamiya decals?

[Pielstick]

Mr Mark softer by Gunze

I'll second that!

Mr Mark Softer is excellent for the thick decals you get with Tamiya and Hasegawa kits. Usually just one application is enough to get the decal to conform to the surface detail. Micro Sol, on the other had will require many applications to get those thick decals to settle properly.

Be aware though, that Mr Mark Softer works much better on thick decals because it is a stronger solvent! If you lather the stuff on to your decals then expect it to eat them, and possibly the paintwork too. It must be used sparingly. Keep the weaker Micro Sol for thinner decals which Mr Mark Softer would very likely eat alive.

And for the times when Mr Mark Softer doesn't work, and you really want the big guns, try Solvaset which is bloody strong and should be used only on the thickest or most stubborn decals.

Your best bet with finding Mr Mark Softer is to get some from a Far Eastern seller on Ebay. While you're there you might want to check out Mr Mark Setter as well.

do you apply to decal and leave alone & let it work its wonderes or apply on decal and press down?

Get your decal into position on the model and then gently but firmly roll a cotton bud over it to press it down onto the surface. You can then apply the Mr Mark Softer with a brush - sparingly - and then leave the decal. Don't touch it, don't blot it, don't even look at it. Go away and come back in a couple of hours and you'll find as long as you didn't put too much solvent on it the decal will have settled down perfectly over the surface detail.

Cheers,

Nick

Edited March 24, 2011 by Pielstick

[Peter Marshall]

I too like Mr Mark Softer

I got mine from MDC who stock it in the UK.

[AdriaN (MLT)]

I'll second that!

Mr Mark Softer is excellent for the thick decals you get with Tamiya and Hasegawa kits. Usually just one application is enough to get the decal to conform to the surface detail. Micro Sol, on the other had will require many applications to get those thick decals to settle properly.

Be aware though, that Mr Mark Softer works much better on thick decals because it is a stronger solvent! If you lather the stuff on to your decals then expect it to eat them, and possibly the paintwork too. It must be used sparingly. Keep the weaker Micro Sol for thinner decals which Mr Mark Softer would very likely eat alive.

And for the times when Mr Mark Softer doesn't work, and you really want the big guns, try Solvaset which is bloody strong and should be used only on the thickest or most stubborn decals.

Your best bet with finding Mr Mark Softer is to get some from a Far Eastern seller on Ebay. While you're there you might want to check out Mr Mark Setter as well.

Get your decal into position on the model and then gently but firmly roll a cotton bud over it to press it down onto the surface. You can then apply the Mr Mark Softer with a brush - sparingly - and then leave the decal. Don't touch it, don't blot it, don't even look at it. Go away and come back in a couple of hours and you'll find as long as you didn't put too much solvent on it the decal will have settled down perfectly over the surface detail.

Cheers,

Nick

THANKS! I think i will get this mr mark softer!

Say can it be used on Kleared surfaces? i hope its doesnt leave stains? it may react with Klear being very strong!

What is mr mark setter used for?

Edited March 24, 2011 by AdriaN (MLT)

[Jon Kunac-Tabinor]

THANKS! I think i will get this mr mark softer!

Say can it be used on Kleared surfaces? i hope its doesnt leave stains? it may react with Klear being very strong!

What is mr mark setter used for?

Hi Adrian - mr mark setter is the equivalent of Microset - ie you apply under the decal, and its very good too. Mr mark softer wont affect Klear anymore than Microsol does.

for Tamiya decals you can also try applying a damp hot paper towel to the decal onces its in position: Use water thats hot enough you can only just tolerate it - then fold a pad of kitchen towl and dip it in, squeee it out and press down on the decal. This workds wonders on Tamiya decals

HTH

Jonners

[Madmonk]

Tameo do an extra strength softener but needs to be used with care as just taking the lid off will melt most decals!!!

Paul at Little-car should be able to source it if he doesn't have any in stock.

[little-cars]

For normal decals I normally suggest the DACO decal setting solutions, bottles coloured Green , orange and red to show their strength.

Tameo red is a little to agressive for most people!

[AdriaN (MLT)]

I found a shop here sells mr mark softner & setter. I will try it out. hope it works.

Say why do people call it Mr hobby and some call it Mr Mark? same thing?

[Pielstick]

Yes it's the same stuff.

Mr Hobby is a brand name that Gunze Sangyo uses - they have a habit of putting "Mr" in front of everything.

[Phantom726]

Adrian,

I had the same problems with the decals for this TAM Meteor:

I tried Sol several times without any results. I then tried Daco Medium - still nothing. Finally went with Daco Strong and then all hell broke loose: The decals almost melted, and when they had dried up they had multiple small cracks all over. I smooted them down with some MicroMesh and gave a couple of heavy coats of varnish. Pretty satisfied with the results now!

Bjarne

[Pielstick]

Turned out very nice though!

[AdriaN (MLT)]

Yes it's the same stuff.

Mr Hobby is a brand name that Gunze Sangyo uses - they have a habit of putting "Mr" in front of everything.

I like the idea it makes them unique & gives them identity. Say why do they put 'mark' for decal solutions? anything to do with ppl named mark

Edited March 24, 2011 by AdriaN (MLT)

[Jon Kunac-Tabinor]

I like the idea it makes them unique & gives them identity. Say why do they put 'mark' for decal solutions? anything to do with ppl named mark

I imagine that its a translation thing from the japanese. I am willing to bet that the japanese character for decal also means mark too - think of it as markings and you have the giste.

Please do try the hot towel method though - its really does work.

Jonners - your hot flannel man

[AdriaN (MLT)]

I'll second that!

Mr Mark Softer is excellent for the thick decals you get with Tamiya and Hasegawa kits.

Pielstick, (just to make sure) following this advice, have you actually put this to practice on tamiya kits decals or just guessing based on other decals? Im asking to be safe & not to risk any precious decals

Edited March 25, 2011 by AdriaN (MLT)

[c.smith10]

having build a few tamiya kits in the recent past i have found solvaset to work very well. it usually takes 2 or 3 applications but once it gets going it softens the decals up nicely and gets them settled into panel lines and over some quite difficult shapes!

[AdriaN (MLT)]

I finally own Mr Mark Softer & Setter. I will soon test them out!!

[AdriaN (MLT)]

Ok experiment done. Im not too happy!

Tell me if i did it right:

I applied setter onto surface. placed decal. let it dry for a minute then pressed down using a cotton bud. decal didnt crinkle or anything. it did stick down, but not totally! i then applied softner... NO crinkling or anything as you guys stated! I then pressed down on it using a cotton bud. stuck down nicely over bumpy areas & panel lines. I applied it again and left it.

Am i supposed to apply the solution and leave it alone? or do i apply and "work it" in? (for both solutions)

I am disappointed to find the solution left behind a white mark. is it some reaction with Klear? i touched the marks with my nail and it felt very soft. its either the Klear melting or the glue in the setter? or solvent in softner? will it dissappear?

Edited April 12, 2011 by AdriaN (MLT)

[Peter Marshall]

Sounds as if you have used it correctly - a couple of points.

First - one you put the softner on DON'T TOUCH THEM - it doesn't act instantly and on thick decals it can take a while (overnight is good), but once it starts working the decals get very soft and tend to tear.

The setter 'pull's decals down as it dries, you don't see the effect of that immediately either, but in combination with the softner has a habit of pulling them over the decals.

The white mark is generally caused by a pool of the Setter / Softner on the klear, you only need a little. Once it's all dried fully spraying a bit of klear over it should fix it.

HTH

[AdriaN (MLT)]

Ok first real decal down. im happy with it. it settled really well. i put softner on around 3 times. when it almost dried I started pressing down on it with a brush to get it in the panel lines. it didnt tear or melt. but on the second application it did wrinkle.. but that went after an hr or so..

Ooh yes and the white marks/stains left when it dried

maybe next decal i should apply and leave it alone??

I wonder if it got down nicely because i pressed down on it?

[xlpainter]

Ok first real decal down. im happy with it. it settled really well. i put softner on around 3 times. when it almost dried I started pressing down on it with a brush to get it in the panel lines. it didnt tear or melt. but on the second application it did wrinkle.. but that went after an hr or so..

Ooh yes and the white marks/stains left when it dried

maybe next decal i should apply and leave it alone??

I wonder if it got down nicely because i pressed down on it?

Do not touch the decal once the softener has been applied just walk away from until dry

[AdriaN (MLT)]

Ooh yes and the white marks/stains left when it dried

Following what i said yesterday. Well basically my *ss marks left! I stuck on a big USAF decal. When i came back later i found it left behind white marks. i tried cleaning it with water, didnt leave Also when i apply softer it beads up as it begins to dry and it leaves behind patches over the black parts, almost like i dropped acid on it. funnily enough it only happened to this big decal. others are ok.

White marks are visible in both photos. On both the transperant parts of the decal AND the wing. On the black lettering you can also see the marks.

Edited April 13, 2011 by AdriaN (MLT)

[AdriaN (MLT)]

*ALSO, i applied 2 more roundels, i applied setter... and softer, left them alone, didnt touch them, came back an hr later to find they didnt totally stick down over the panel lines. it looks like it needs some 'touching down'. i applied softner 3 times over them. maybe an hour isnt enough?? maybe after 5 hrs they will look more 'painted on'?