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Spitfire XII Airfix 1/48


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Before starting painting proper, I decided to tackle the cannons and stubs.

The cannons and stubs need fairing in. If they are faired in before painting, masking could be a pain. I decided to use an old trick from one of the Cooper Details instruction sheets.

The first step was to roughly paint the items in a low-tack acrylic paint. I used Xtracrylic, but Polyscale or Aeromaster or Humbrol acrylics would equally do.

Airfix23.jpg

The cannons and stubs were located in the sockets and lathered in CA/talc filler.

Airfix24.jpg

The cannons and stubs were removed when the filler was set, by giving them a twist. This is why low-tack paint was used.

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The filler was smoothed over with a sanding stick.

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The resulting finish looks a bit ugly.

Airfix27.jpg

However, it looks ok when painted up.

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The cannons and stubs are not permanently fixed at the moment. Later on, they will be fixed in with white glue and given a dusting of paint.

Painting proper has started now and there will soon be another update.

Thanks for looking.

All comments are welcome.

Dave.

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While doing cannons on mine I glued them in place then filled gaps with squadron putty and wiped with paper soaked in acetate nail polish remover. similar effect with less fiddling but any way to achieve the effect is good for me.

Greg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I wasn't too happy with the kit prop . In my opinion it's a tad skinny and there is insufficient change in angle of attack going from root to tip. I decided to try modifying a set of Academy Mk XIV blades, using the set John Adams supplies with his Mk XII conversion as a template. I added about a mm to the root and slimmed them down a bit.

In the middle you can see the original Academy blade and the Airfix prop.

Airfix31.jpg

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The model has been painted using Gunze Mr Color paints for the camo

The prop blades are only jammed into some Blu-tak at the moment, hence they're a bit wonky.

Airfix33.jpg

Airfix34.jpg

Airfix35.jpg

Airfix36.jpg

Thanks for looking.

All comments are most welcome.

Dave.

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While doing cannons on mine I glued them in place then filled gaps with squadron putty and wiped with paper soaked in acetate nail polish remover. similar effect with less fiddling but any way to achieve the effect is good for me.

Greg

I did it the way I did it, to simplify masking around the cannons.

Dave

Lovely looking Spit, thanks for the fairing in tip, very interesting. Thanks for sharing.

All the best

Chris

Thanks Chris. The encouragement is welcome.

Dave.

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Hi all,

It's about ready for decaling. It wasn't coated with Future. Instead, it was buffed with a nail polishing sponge.

The Airfix door has two dirty great ejector marks, so I made a new one from a beer can and plastic cup.

I replaced the tips of the canon barels with steel tube.

The exhausts were hollowed and painted Gunze burnt iron.

The prop/airscrew that I made is finished now.

Airfix37.jpg

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Airfix39.jpg

Airfix40.jpg

Airfix41.jpg

Sorry about the crap picture quality.

All comments are of course welcome.

Dave.

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Looks very, very nice Dave!!

I'm no rivet counter; but, if it doesn't look right it's not right. i think the new propeller blades definitely look better.

As a matter of personal preference, i'd still gloss coat the model before decalling. i'm not a big fan of laying decals onto bare paint, but i AM a big fan of sanding/ buffing flat finishes before putting the gloss on.

Well Done. Bring on the 17!!

david

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Looks very, very nice Dave!!

I'm no rivet counter; but, if it doesn't look right it's not right. i think the new propeller blades definitely look better.

As a matter of personal preference, i'd still gloss coat the model before decalling. i'm not a big fan of laying decals onto bare paint, but i AM a big fan of sanding/ buffing flat finishes before putting the gloss on.

Well Done. Bring on the 17!!

david

Cheers Dave,

I think the new prop is better than that of the kit. Only problem is I'll have to do it again when the Seafire XVII comes out.

WRT glossing, the truth is, I always add about 50% Testors Metalizer sealer to my paints before spraying, so in a sense, it has already had a gloss coat. It'll also have a gloss coat to seal the decals.

With a bit of luck, when I've finished this, I'll be able to finish that Hellcat which is 98% complete.

Regards,

Dave.

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Now that's just showing off! :rofl:

Mr Matrix,

Empty beer cans are an excellent source of malleable metal. Plastic coffee cups are an excellent source of 5 thou plastic.

I laminated them for the main part of the door.

In Geordie-land, we make Scotsmen and Yorkies seem positively generous. ;)

Dave.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The decals are on now.

They went on beautifully and were lathered in Microscale Microsol. They crazed up like hell, but when dry, all was well.

Not an aful lot more to do now.

Airfix42.jpg

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Airfix46.jpg

Airfix48.jpg

Airfix47.jpg

Thanks for looking.

All comments are most welcome.

Dave.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Great thread Dave, thanks for sharing your build. I have just added this and the more recent PRXlX kits to the stash and look forward to building again.. Airfix are really starting to come up with the goods here.

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Thanks for the comments chaps. I'm glad the build is still of some use. :)

for the final coat I used a mixture of Testors Metalizer Sealer and Tamiya Flat Base. I mix and test until it gives me the degree of "mattness" I want.

HTH,

Dave.

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