yeehah1 Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 11 01 11 Just wondering...I have a Spitfire nearly ready for cammo and I have always wanted to try this technique. How precise to the cammo pattern do you need to be? Can anyone show some step by steps please? Just so I can get an idea of what and how I am supposed to be doing. Thanks a muchly in advance Liam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 (edited) Hiya Liam, It's a simple technique - just roll the BluTack into long sausages and lay over the model following the lines you want the demarcation to follow. And it's fairly easy to copy a drawing showing the demarcations - if not right - just move/bend. I then squidge it down a little before spraying to make sure it doesn't go awol mid-spray!! I vary diameter depending upon how much overspray/feather I'm looking for. For current project - a Reggiane Re 2005 - it was about 5mm diameter as I wanted a slightly irregular line and only a little overspray. Make the 'sausage' long enough to start before the masked area and finish after. You can then mask the 'blind' side with tape/paper to prevent overspray onto the wrong side of the BluTack - but i usually find this is un-necessary. Then - get your airbrush set up - 10 - 15 PSI max, paint nicely thinned - and test on a piece of card - nice narrow pattern. Now - aim the airbrush just slightly ahead of the BluTack (spraying from the 'blind' side of it (always away from the side you don't want to add paint to) and gently follow the line of the BluTack mask with the airbrush. Several passes will be needed - build up slowly The technique leaves a nice tight feathered edge. Re 2005 Hawker Hunter I can prolly put together some photo's of the process at the weekend if anyone's interested? If it's a coarse feather in 1:32 I just spray freehand. F-100D Hopefully I've kind of explained it... Iain Edited January 11, 2011 by Iain (32SIG) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 ive done it badly a few times but id like to see you do it properly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 I would recomend using white tac, more so if using a matt paint. I found bluetac can leave a mark on matt paint where as white tac does not. Re the Hunter you should not see overspray as they used mats and then polished off any overspray with rubbing compound (in the factory that is) Julien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg B Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Heres my method for doing camouflage schemes with blu tac: Right, on to the FS30219 Tan. Paint is as ever Gunze Sangyo Acrylic. I'm using their Mr Color levelling thinner, it contains a retarder to slow the paint drying, therefore no clogged airbrush at all. Normally with Acrylics I have to clean the airbrush tip every couple of minutes, not this time, no build up, and it stays wet long enough to get a nice gloss finish. Thanks to Phil Flory and his vids I've been lightly spraying the area to be painted first, then coming back to infill as it leaves something to key to. Nice one Phil The base colour is sprayed over the pre-shading which subtly shows through, then afterwards I add about 30% light grey and really thin the mix down, about 90% thinner. Then the centre of the panels get a light build up of the greyed out colour, before the whole area is given a very light dusting to tone everything together..... Then Blu Tac Sausages, easy peasy way to get a very fine scale feathered edge. Just remember to spray at around 900 to the sausage, otherwise you risk a hard edge... Now on with the light green FS34102, sprayed over the pre shading then post shaded in the center of the panels with well thinned with a bit of grey added. Now its beginning to look like a worn out Hun in Vietnam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg B Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 And so on: Final colour, Gunze FS 34079 and post shaded with a bit of grey added like before. Let it dry for a couple of hours, even though its acrylic it can still be quite soft and I normally end up leaving paw marks on it. Removed the masking and blu tac: Voila Tomorrow the Alclad and then it will get interesting! Link to the build is here: Linky Hope that helps! Keep the pressure low and keep it at 90 degrees to the blu tack otherwise you will get a hard edge if you spray into it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 I use a slightly different method, I make paper masks of the camouflage pattern, roll the BluTac into thin sausages and attach it to the masks, these are than stuck to the model leaving a very slight gap (1 to 2 mm) between the mask and the surface. Airbrush at 90o to the mask to prevent creep under the masks. The BluTac does tend top stick very well to the surface and can leave a residue on the model, to remove this I roll a small piece of BluTac over the model. Normally I remove the masks straight away after airbrushing and tidy up any creep under the masks with a cotton bud dipped in white spirit. Here's one I did recently http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.p...40&start=40 Cheers Den Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robw_uk Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 have tried the blu-tac sausage but didnt seem to get such a neat finsih, may clean the paint of he dragonfly and start it again. I have a THUD in the stash I want to do later in the year and want to be able to handle the SEA scheme nicely...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 (edited) Re the Hunter you should not see overspray as they used mats and then polished off any overspray with rubbing compound (in the factory that is)Julien Hi Julien, Yes and, er, no... Hard edge from factory - then a wide variety once in the field - especially later marks once they'd been in service a while - going by photo's anyway. Something I was concerned about during the build - discussion re paint on page 5. Iain Edited January 11, 2011 by Iain (32SIG) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidelvy Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 I also use the Blu (or white) Tac method and endorse much of what is said above. However, for filling in I use cling film which I lay across the blu-tac and trim whith a scalpel. This saves on multiple strips of Tamiya Tape and is quite quick to apply. My other piece of advice is to be very clear in your mind which side of the demarcation is the inside as far as masking is concerned. I got it wrong once and ended up with weedy squiggles of green over large expanses of grey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul RH Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 What a great idea!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 This might be slightly of topic but I've tried this technique and found I was unable to get the Blu-tac to stay in place on vertical surfaces,putting more pressure on the Bu-tac caused the demarcation line to distort. I applied it over Xtracolor and WEM paint. I mention the paint type as I wonder if the gloss finish of these paints may effect the adhesion of the Blu-tac, I've had no problems applying it to horizontal surfaces,any thoughts? Thanks, Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scarlet Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Hi Julien,Yes and, er, no... Hard edge from factory - then a wide variety once in the field - especially later marks once they'd been in service a while - going by photo's anyway. Very similar to the Lightnings when I was at Binbrook. It was quite common to see the Grey/Green camo jets with hard and soft edged paint on the same airframe. This was due to the painters either spraying the paint or applying it with a roller. More often than not the paint was rolled as it was much quicker to do, less masking and you did'nt have to evacuate the hanger - no spray bay at Binbrook! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yeehah1 Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 11 01 11 Thanks Guys, Much appreciated Liam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 This might be slightly of topic but I've tried this technique and found I was unable to get the Blu-tac to stay in place on vertical surfaces,putting more pressure on the Bu-tac caused the demarcation line to distort. I applied it over Xtracolor and WEM paint. I mention the paint type as I wonder if the gloss finish of these paints may effect the adhesion of the Blu-tac, I've had no problems applying it to horizontal surfaces,any thoughts?Thanks, Malcolm Very strange, I usually use Xtracolor and WEM colourcoats and the BluTac sticks like crazy to them, and I use the same BluTac over and over again. Cheers Den Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murdo Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) Copydex seems good for filling in between the blue / white tack lines. It's a very effective paint mask. I know one or two others here have tried it. Edited January 12, 2011 by Murdo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robw_uk Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Copydex seems good for filling in between the blue / white tack lines. It's a very effective paint mask. I know one or two others here have tried it. just read this on another thread.... could you use copydex as a complete mask? i have not had a great success with blu-tac (I rush and that is a big issue i need to address) and wonder if i could paint the mask on then peel/rub off? any watch outs..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcn Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Can't see why not or any masking agent for that matter. You would have to be more careful on its application that's all. I've never really got on with blu tac myself and I tend to use very thin strips (1mm) of tamiya tape to create my camo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yeehah1 Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 Heres my method for doing camouflage schemes with blu tac: Greg: I'll be using acrylics to paint the cammo. Would you have to seal the paint before using hte blu-tack? Would the blu-tack lift the paint off if I chose not to seal it? Thanks in advance, Liam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg B Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Greg: I'll be using acrylics to paint the cammo. Would you have to seal the paint before using hte blu-tack? Would the blu-tack lift the paint off if I chose not to seal it?Thanks in advance, Liam Liam, Gunze are acrylic paints, no sealing was required, just do not leave the blu tac on matt paints for too long as you can get a bit of an oily mark (it disappears after glossing for decals etc). White tac for some reason does not leave a trace. I have had no issues with it lifting paint as it has never been pressed down that hard and left for long periods. As for using copydex, yes you can use it to fill the gaps, but it cannot be easily removed from the blu tac and using copydex only, you will end up with a hard edged finish which sort of defeats the reason for using blu tac in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murdo Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 just read this on another thread.... could you use copydex as a complete mask? i have not had a great success with blu-tac (I rush and that is a big issue i need to address) and wonder if i could paint the mask on then peel/rub off? any watch outs..... Copydex is a great mask and can be used almost anywhere but as Greg says, if you lay it down with out the Blue Tack you will get a hard edged cam pattern. As Greg also says, forget re-using the blue tack if you use Copydex. They might as well be glued together. It is great for adding dabs from the almost dry brush which leaves very nice chipping effects once you clean it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robw_uk Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 As for using copydex, yes you can use it to fill the gaps, but it cannot be easily removed from the blu tac and using copydex only, you will end up with a hard edged finish which sort of defeats the reason for using blu tac in the first place. fair point...... will continue to work with blu tac - maybe my sausages were too fat...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yeehah1 Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 13 01 11 Well, I tried the blu-tack method and it worked reasonably well for a first go. First time ever I didn't have hard edges. However, it did leave marks around the edge of the cammo pattern, like a pale ghost where the blu-tack had been. I can 't get rid of it. I tried rubbing/rolling it with other blu-tack, but it won't lift. I used Vajello paint, the one formulated for airbrushes. Any advise? Liam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg B Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 13 01 11Well, I tried the blu-tack method and it worked reasonably well for a first go. First time ever I didn't have hard edges. However, it did leave marks around the edge of the cammo pattern, like a pale ghost where the blu-tack had been. I can 't get rid of it. I tried rubbing/rolling it with other blu-tack, but it won't lift. I used Vajello paint, the one formulated for airbrushes. Any advise? Liam Yep, its just some of the oils in the blu tac have penetrated the paint layer. Try some soapy water and a soft paintbrush, it may help. I normally find that after gloss coating, decaling, another gloss coat, the wash and then the matt coat you cant see them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murdo Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Other modellers report that White Tack is better than Blue Tack. doesn't leave the stain. I have tried White Tack yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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