Phil Reeder Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Cheers Deacon - you can't see the glue smudge on the other side of the hull in those pix - easily fixed! Having read my Anatomy of the Ship book last night I know a new nautical term. Hawsers - them thingies where the anchors live! Now - assume the tubes that form these are straight lines internally - no curved? I want to drill these out and provide the tubed hawser effect - any pointers appreciated. <wanders off to trawl the Interweb> Iain Hi Iain The Hawser tubes would have been straight,as they would have housed the stock(?)of the anchor. cheers phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 (edited) Thanks Phil - helps hugely! Have been fettling the hull today - decks now blended seamlessly with hull at the edges. Cutting away the degausing cables as these will be replaced with photo-etch - not a slow job and I was trying to avoid damaging the gutters over the scuttles (or port holes) - trying to get terminology right! I think I'm about to say 'sod it' and sand it all back - then find some way of re-instating those gutters. Both images tacken one hand through magnifier - sorry about quality! More soon... Iain Edited January 9, 2011 by Iain (32SIG) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 (edited) S*d it - have sanded all the detail off (except the watertight doors). Cables are now ex-cables and the joint with the base plate filled so that I can sand smooth later in the week. Iain Edited January 9, 2011 by Iain (32SIG) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Reeder Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Iain ,have you seen this?: Cheers Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 11, 2011 Author Share Posted January 11, 2011 (edited) Nope - but I have now - brilliant - much appreciated Phil Last night I spent another hour, or so, prepping the hull. All degaussing cables gone, base plate faired in and the plating a little less prominent. More sanding - then those hawser tubes. At the weekend I'll pick up some MDF for a base plinth and get the router out if the weather OK. Iain Edited January 11, 2011 by Iain (32SIG) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hewitt Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 realise it was too late for me to do that ,gone too far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 (edited) OK - Colourcoats ordered - at least the colour will be right! Even managed to fight the urge to include the Combrig WW1 Tiger in the order It's the weekend - off to fettle the Hull for an hour, or two. Aim to be ready to paint the hull next weekend. Iain Edited January 14, 2011 by Iain (32SIG) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 OK - this is where we are - and a question: Deck edges all flush and de-gausing cables gone. Base plate faired in. Now - anchor chain - worth removing moulded detail and using Lion Roar chain? As I'm doing her at anchor I'll need a couple of lengths of chain externally anyway? Would the ship use all anchors - or just two (one of the bow one's and the stern if in sheltered anchorage? If so - any particular order? More progress over weekend. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Reeder Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Hi Iain, When at anchor a ship will only have one down,also the vessel faces bow first to the incoming tide or current,when the tide changes the ship swings round to face the new direction,if she had two anchors down ,then she wouldn`t be able to do this. Hope this helps Cheers Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 Thanks Phil - showing my ignorance again! Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I'd go for the LR chain and get rid of the moulded stuff. Real chain does make quite a difference. IMHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denstore Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Problem is that all replacement chain has the wrong type of links. It always distracts from the final result IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Fascinating stuff this, I have quite a few 1:350 ships up in the loft, bought them in anticipation of my retirement. Cheers Den Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 Hi Denstore - that's my concern - am assuming the links should be closer to this - flatter oval with internal cross piece (although this one's a Kreigsmarine one - from Tirpitz) Is there anything aftermarket wise that's closer? Going to be a bu**er to replicate Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I use 2mm black chain from Cornwall Model Boats. Ok the links aren't perfectly the correct shape, but I still feel they are better than the moulded chains, they certainly look ok on my Graff Spee. But hey, each to their own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 Thanks Shar - I'll probably go with the LR chain Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denstore Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I've found chain with the cross piece, but I think it is much to large for ships like Hood. The smallest I've found might be ok for behemoths like Yamato or Iowa. It's one of the things I really could pay a bit extra for. Probably it is something that you either notice immediately or not at all.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 To imitate a chain I once used the following technique - I took two pieces of thin copper wire and twisted them together tightly. After that the resulting plait was gently flattened with a hammer - looks fine even in 700 scale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Still pondering on chain. In mean time I've started opening out the hawser tubes - with the aim of filling with Milliput and forming a tube in each. My latest question though - White Ensign include hawser tube covers on the etch fret - would these have been used all the time? Would they all be in place at anchor? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Cortecene and teak paints have arrived very promptly from WEM - and have tracked down some tins of AP 507B at Cammett - so hopefully have the main colours to hand by the weekend. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 22, 2011 Author Share Posted January 22, 2011 Mutter, mutter, mutter... Websites and stock levels. The search for a tin, or two, of AP507B continues - firstly WEM website shows on-stock - but isn't - now repeated by Cammett. Just had my parcel arrive from them and my airbrush cleaners are present - but the paint 'out of stock'. I think someone mentioned Dorking Models - will try and give them a call this arvo... Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 I think I might have a spare tin of AP507B should you need it. Also found these stud link chains at Cornwall Model Boats that seem to be pretty close to the battleship chains. HERE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 22, 2011 Author Share Posted January 22, 2011 Thanks Shar2 - am a little way off paint at present - so going to keep trying Chain - that's BRILLIANT - exactly what I was looking for! I'd even contemplated adding the central bars to standard chain - link by link - but suspect that would have driven me more crazy than I already am! Will place order Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denstore Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 I have bought some of their chain, and in my opinion it's a bit to large to use with a ship like Hood. My guess is that at least 20 links per inch is needed to make it look in scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted January 22, 2011 Author Share Posted January 22, 2011 Just been measuring - WEM etch gives 28 links/inch - kit 24 - so agreed denstore... They do a 28 pitch chain that would need links squishing slightly and a cross bar added to each - I guess anything is doable?? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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