Italeri 1/48th F-4J Phantom VMFA-451

[Ghostbase]

My very first model post on this board, have posted in 'Critique Corner' 'cos there are a lot of flaws with my build and I would appreciate some feedback how I could do better, also about a specific problem which cropped up.

The kit is the Italeri 1/48th F-4J Phantom which I believe is derived from the old 80's era ESCI product. Got it on eBay for a total of a tenner

The kit decal choice was a USN VF-213, USMC VMFA-451, or a subdued RAF 'Tiger' F-4J(UK). I went for the VMFA-451 markings which depict a very showy Bicentennial bird in definite hi-vis markings.

On to the photos, starting with a full side view:

A closer view of the forward area:

The rear part of the F-4J:

And the specific problem, these decals and 'Klear' don't seem to mix very well!!

Ok, about me as a modeller, I still live in the late 70's and 80's and to be honest my modelling skills really date back to then. I do use an old Badger airbrush. I am strictly OOB. I detest filling and sanding, I love planning, painting and decalling. I don't yet have the confidence to try weathering or washes.

Personally I liked the kit. It does fit together well and does not have the problems around the fuselage joins either side of the wings that the Monogram F-4 C/D does (or at least does when I do them!). The engraved detail is very good. The real downside is that canopy, the whole thing just does not fit together and in the end I just bodged it together and hoped for the best. I understand this is a well known feature of this kit but I could not see any obvious way round it.

The painting generally went well. Started with Halfords grey car primer, then used Humbrol Satin White and Humbrol Satin Gull Grey enamel paints. Humbrol Metalcote around the exhaust area, not sure what I used on the burner cans but that bit is wrong! Had a disaster when spraying the tailfin all white, I got the paint mix wrong and it all dribbled down one side over some of the metalcote. I managed to fix it but the worst parts are hidden under a walkway decal I then sprayed all-over with a coat of 'Klear' to seal the paint prior to applying the decals.

I thought the kit decal option was excellent. I applied them and noticed that they seemed to be much more elastic than I am used to, especially the larger decals. I decided not to use Humbrol Decalfix 'cos I was in a lazy mood and anyway it never seems to do much for decals.

To finish the F-4 off I gave it a quick spray with a final coat of 'Klear' to seal the decals on and this was the final straw, all the larger decals wrinkled and crazed - I thought 'Klear' was supposed to be magic!!!!

Well, the final result looks smart and it joins all my other 'Three Foot' models in a display case, ie they look good from three foot away (or further)

So, despite the frustrations and the mistakes I enjoyed making this one which is what counts. However I won't be knocking on the local modelling club's door anytime soon (Farnborough's good fortune I think).

But where did I go wrong with the decals and 'Klear'??

Michael

[daz greenwood]

Lovely!!!!

I do like the colourful USN/USMC era of the 60's, 70's and 80's.

[borz666]

Lovely job, I too really rate this kit. Considering its age it is a good F-4J/D and with a few spares from a hasegawa it really makes it shine.(and a bargain to boot!)

The only really nasty problem with the kit is that bloody canopy... Its a real POS.

Chris

Edited October 31, 2010 by borz666

[Alan P]

But where did I go wrong with the decals and 'Klear'??

I then sprayed all-over with a coat of 'Klear' to seal the paint prior to applying the decals.

<snip>

To finish the F-4 off I gave it a quick spray with a final coat of 'Klear' to seal the decals on and this was the final straw, all the larger decals wrinkled and crazed

This may be the problem - you mentioned elasticity of the decals, this may have caused tiny tearing of the larger decals and the Klear might have bled into the decal itself. The application of a subsequent coat of Klear (especially without the obligatory 24-48 hours curing time) may have caused the previous coat to partially dissolve, causing the crazing of the decals you mention.

However I won't be knocking on the local modelling club's door anytime soon (Farnborough's good fortune I think).

You should come down to Farnborough anyway! You'll be guaranteed a warm welcome as long as you have beer money! Most of us don't bring models along...!

Edited November 1, 2010 by PHaTNesS

[Dr_Flangemeister]

You should come down to Farnborough anyway! You'll be guaranteed a warm welcome as long as you have beer money! Most of us don't bring models along...!

I second that, both the need for beer money and they fact most of us don't bring models (that often at least!)

Btw, nice colour scheme and good to see a clean airframe too, especially on an anniversary scheme.

Cheers

Chris

[David H]

Hi Michael,

On the whole, the model is a competent and workmanlike build.

I think the problems experienced with the decals may be a multi-faceted problem. First, looking at the close-up shot of the wing walkways, the surface of the paint finish appears sort of rough and pebbly to my eye. Typically, i will carefully wet-sand my paint with very fine sandpaper (2000 grit), or give the paint sort of a scuffing with a large ladies foundation brush before applying the clear gloss coats. This knocks off some of the graininess off the paint and it also smooths-out pebbly areas that often occur in places like 90-degree intersections. Obviously you have to be careful against sanding thru to the bare plastic or sanding thru to the underlying colour if you're working in an area where two colours intersect.

Secondly, it may have been a case of not enough Kleer. The first coat of Kleer, when applied to a flat finish, appears to be glossy when first applied to the model, but it shrinks considerably while drying, and what appears as a gloss finish will change to an eggshell or semi-matt finish once cured. I prefer to let each coat of kleer dry at least 24 hours, and i wont apply decals unless the finish appears uniformly glossy AFTER the finish is fully cured. Great thing about Future/Kleer/Pledge with Future Shine, is the longer you let it sit, the better (harder) it gets.

Finally, once the decals are on and you bombed them with set/sol/Mr. Mark Softer/Solvaset/whatever, let the model sit a couple of days before the next gloss coat goes on. Sometimes some wrinkled decals are still working the kinks out 12 hours later, even if it doesn't look it.

Once the flat coat goes on, sometimes the kinks are a lot less noticeable. Using a wash in the panel lines will also break up the monotony of the aircraft surface and draw the eye away from problem areas. As a matter of personal preference i like to mask and paint on walkway areas when i can.

Hope this helps. Keep at it!!

david

[pte1643]

The real downside is that canopy, the whole thing just does not fit together and in the end I just bodged it together and hoped for the best. I understand this is a well known feature of this kit but I could not see any obvious way round it.

Could have just modelled the canopy "Open", then the bad fit wouldn't have even shown probably.

Other than that, I think you're being a little harsh on yourself, I think you've produced a nice model there.

Maybe a little too clean for a Lead Sled though.

Edited January 1, 2011 by pte1643

[Ghostbase]

Hope this helps. Keep at it!!

david

Yes, thanks David, this really does help and I think I will change my workflow methodology the next time I apply Klear and decals. Your observations regarding drying times are particularly relevant because I really did this one in a rush (I work shifts and much of my modelling is done in the morning before going to work late turns) and clearly I should have allowed much more drying time between applications. Interestingly the wrinkled decals don't look so bad now so to some extent they have worked out the worst kinks.

My next aircraft build is a 1/48th F-4K Phantom using some old Almark decals so hopefully I will get it right this time.

Using washes is the next technique I need to learn how to do

Michael

[Angels49]

That is another very sweet Phantom...Uncle Sam's Misguided Crazies really did fly some Phabulous Phantoms schemes.

[Ghostbase]

That is another very sweet Phantom...Uncle Sam's Misguided Crazies really did fly some Phabulous Phantoms schemes.

Thank you for your kind comment

Have to agree regards USMC Phantom colour schemes. One of the greatest ever was worn by VMFA-321, a Reserve unit out of Andrews AFB MA with hi-vis blue and white stars and a 'toasting fork' on the tail fin. I was lucky to catch a lo-vis example in late 1988 at Oceana three years before they changed to the F-18A Hornet, photo here: VMFA-321 F-4S Lo-vis

Not much choice for an F-4S in 1/48th scale. The Italeri #828 'US Navy Phantom' kit is the old Testors product and was a bit of a challenge to make with what seemed to be a warped nose section (ie. it ended up in the bin!). Presumably the Hasegawa offering is much better but I think it is OOP and goes for silly money on eBay.

Does anyone do decals for VMFA-321 Phantoms?

Michael

[Toe]

I agree with being too harsh on yourself, I like the finish you created, sure its not weathered but it still looks excellent because you've finished it well, the craziness isn't really noticeable and as with anything you learn as you go along.

I'm at the moment not convinced on the Klear so-called amazing qualities as it doesn't do anything more for me than a half decent gloss, each to their own I guess but as I've never had problems with silvering I not too fussed. Think using Micro Sol or Set, can't remember which doesn't seem to go that well with Klear, but it all turns out good in the end, well, for me anyway, I'm firmly in your camp, happy enough to it OOB.

Cockpit looks odd though I agree, but hey, its still a Phantom, thanks for putting up the pics, enjoyed viewing them!

Quick edit, may be worth while decanting the primer into your airbrush, in my view there is much more control in the amount of paint going on, rattle cans seem to drench the thing and creates my nightmare of runs and sags everywhere...... aaaargh!!

Edited May 10, 2011 by Steve Zodiac

[Ghostbase]

That is a useful pointer, thanks. I have to use the rattlecan outside because of the volume of spray and it is very difficult to get the coverage completely even and 'drench' is about the right word! IIRC someone has posted a 'How To Decant Primer' article on one of the modelling forums, must see if I can find it.

Michael

Quick edit, may be worth while decanting the primer into your airbrush, in my view there is much more control in the amount of paint going on, rattle cans seem to drench the thing and creates my nightmare of runs and sags everywhere...... aaaargh!!

[Toe]

Looked at this to get me going: http://www.acmenovelties.net/scale_models/decanting.php

Used it so far mainly for decanting car paint to do a little work on my car, plus Wilkinson's own brand of primer, never had the problem with paint bubbling etc, used it straight away

So far to direct the paint I've used straws from Burger King and a simple flyer/leaflet which comes through the door turned into a cone and then allowed to drip in a small pot like what you get desserts in from supermarkets

Edited May 11, 2011 by Steve Zodiac

[Bertie McBoatface]

Nice and tidy Phantom, Michael. I have had similar decal difficulties lately on a Sea Vixen. I tried a technique touted on an HS forum of using Kleer as a decal setting solution both under and over the decal. The idea was to avoid silvering, and sure enough, the silvering was minimal. Unfortunately, I had the same wrinkle problem you encountered. David's thoughts about leaving a good long curing time at each stage sound logical and I'll try that next time I think.

kudos to you for posting something you are unhappy with, especially as a first post. It's the way to learn but it takes some confidence I think.