Fifer54 Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Quick question! If you remove the paint from a model (e.g. using Mr Muscle oven cleaner) is it possible to prevent the painted interior from being stripped? Can I simply mask it off to prevent the stripper from contacting the surfaces, or must I accept that the cockpit is going to be stripped? I only ask because the model I want to strip has the best-finished cockpit of all my models! Sod's Law or what,eh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hovis Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 I really doubt it mate unless you don't soak it, but spend hours with a toothbrush dipped in oven cleaner... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlpainter Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 hi halfords do aluminium tape just mask an area around the cockpit strip the model and remove the tape and sand the rest of the paint around the cockpit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcn Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 I've managed to get off future over Tamiya acrylic over alclad primer using nothing but IPA, a cloth and a toothbrush. Clearly more effort is involved in getting back to the bare plastic as opposed to a dunk in a bath of MRMOC but all the work on the interior is preserved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary C Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Yes, it's possible. I've just stripped a Tamiya Mosquito back to bare plastic after the Xtracrylix I'd used peeled off with the masking tape. If you're going to use Mr Muscle then spray it into a seperate container and let it foam and turn to liquid. Apply it with a half inch paintbrush to the kit, let it dissolve the paint and then scrub with a toothbrush and wash off. To get the Xtracrylix off I used Fairy Power spray. It doesn't foam and is better at removing acrylics than Mr Muscle. Don't try and do the kit all in one go, do it sections ie wing/forward fuselage/rear fuselage/other wing. That way you've got more control. Tape the cockpit over and work roughly around it, you can use a finer paintbrush to get the stuff around the edges last of all. You'll have to retape the cockpit every time you wash it but that's not a bad thing as you can check that nothing has got inside. It's a slow process but it rewards patience and you'll get your kit back to the prepainting stage and can try again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted November 1, 2010 Author Share Posted November 1, 2010 Thank you all for your advice, there is hope, and my model for the KUTAIII GB can go ahead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 Try wiping the model with Mr color thinners. That takes everything off and doesn't harm the plastic. It stinks though so you'll need a mask Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Ogilvie Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 As others have said - if painted with acrylics - simply wipe off with IPA soaked kitchen paper. Just did this with a 1:32 Thunderbolt - back to shiny plastic and no collateral damage to cockpit - or u/c bays. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 Whats best for stripping enamals? Shaun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 I stripped two of my old kits using brake fluid, both kits had been painted with Humbrol and Xtracolor, the reason that I stripped and refinished them was that when I built them I used to go to town and spend months on the cockpits. I just covered them in brake fluid using a brush and left them overnight in the garage, I had to use a Brillo pad on some stuborn bits but it worked well. I used the older nastier brake fluid, not the newer "friendly" stuff. Cheers Den Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard of Effingham Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 Whats best for stripping enamals? shaun, i would recommend modelstrip. it works well with enamels and i have used it for many years without much difficulty. a good modelshop should stock it. comes in a white pot with a royal blue lid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Craik Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 (edited) Whats best for stripping enamals?Shaun. I just wipe with a cotton ball soaked in finger nail polish remover,no harm to the plastic and the wife does the buying. Edited December 7, 2010 by James Craik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 I just wipe with a cotton ball soaked in finger nail polish remover,no harm to the plastic and the wife does the buying. Thats a good idea and cheap also. Might give that a try and get high on the fumes! Shaun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wako1302 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 I've used TCP Antisecptic to remove paint from models, it does a good job but some paint is always left. Does the Mr Muscle over cleaner work without melting the plastic ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmah Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 I just wipe with a cotton ball soaked in finger nail polish remover,no harm to the plastic and the wife does the buying. I tried nail polish remover and the stuff my GF has started to melt the plastic so I would be careful before attempting a full strip with that stuff I've used TCP Antisecptic to remove paint from models, it does a good job but some paint is always left.Does the Mr Muscle over cleaner work without melting the plastic ? Yes it does, the paint just washes off however I've had even better results stripping both enamel and acrylics using Fairy Powerspray. For the original poster, my mistakes seem to happen when painting the outside and I've had to strip several models back to the plastic, if you are careful the interior "should" not be affected. I have stripped back wings with bluetack in the wheel wells and they have not been effected either so just take your time. Regards Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gajman Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 I tried nail polish remover and the stuff my GF has started to melt the plastic so I would be careful before attempting a full strip with that stuff You need to get the nail polish that does not contain acetone (I think that's it). It works well as a paint remover. Cheers Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wizball Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 You need to get the nail polish that does not contain acetone (I think that's it). It works well as a paint remover.There are (roughly) two types of nail polish remover: One containing acetone and the other usually contains Ethyl Acetate. Acetone has it's uses, smoothing Tamiya/Squdaron putty for instance. Ethyl Acetate is ALSO useful - apparently you can use it to strip paint but I would be VERY careful using it like that - since I've had most use of it as liquid plastic glue. Works just like Tamiya Thin or MEK-PAK. Does indeed melt the plastic but evaporates quickly so I guess if you are careful it could work. Resurrecting this old post found while searching to find out if Mr. Muscle will damage the interior... Sprayed Tamiya white primer too soon over some enamel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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