korean Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 hello all, Whats the best thing to use for weighting down a model, to stop it becoming a tail sitter? and where do you get it? Or what do you use? Korean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shar2 Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 I use lead shot/fishing weights or air rifle pellets. Fixed in with a bit of epoxy or superglue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 Lead shot, wheel balance weights, lead sheet cutoffs from builders. Nuts and bolts. secure with araldite, supergue, sticky pads. Depends on the available space for the medium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robw_uk Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 i am masacaring (sp) Horses and Scots Greys - well 25mm lead versions.... but works.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary C Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 I've got a roll of lead flashing. Hack a bit off with the sprue cutters, squash it to shape with the pliers and CA in place. I also use it to make little agitators to drop in tins of paint to help mixing. You can get it from Wickes. A tenners worth should last decades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin S-K Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 Solder, Easy to find, easy to chop to length. Great stuff. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdxtnt Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 If you live near a scuba-diving shop in the UK, you will find that many of them sell lead shot by the Kilogram. Divers use it to fill their weightbelts. The shot is fairly fine and ideal for packing into awkward shaped spaces. I mix mine with araldite to keep it securely in place. Buying in bulk is a lot cheaper long term than buying smaller amounts from an angling shop. A few Kilograms will be enough to last for many, many models Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jennings Heilig Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 I use a *tiny* slice of black hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 (edited) I use lead and if there is space and not much weight needed, Blue tack. You can use both togeather when pushed into nose cones, etc. Shaun. Edited October 13, 2010 by Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earlswain341 Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 I use lead and if there is space and not much weight needed, Blue tack. You can use both togeather when pushed into nose cones, etc. Shaun. Flashband works for me and its self adhesive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 Lead-free fishing weights blended into milliput. If not much weight is needed, I sometimes fill the nosecone of a jet with liquid resin - it's amazing how that weight right at the tip does the job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROGERD Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 if theres enough room 1p or 2p coins glued together =- at laest you now exactly how much it costs! is it still a capital offence to deface the queens coinage? just my 2 pennyworth. Rogerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dahut Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 hello all,Whats the best thing to use for weighting down a model, to stop it becoming a tail sitter? and where do you get it? Or what do you use? Korean. I use old wheel weights, bullets, or hardware like nuts bolts, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 Most tyre places will have a lot of old wheel balence weights and will happily give you a handfull I have found out. Works if you have a lot of space, otherise its fishing weights and milliput for me. Julien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hovis Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 Concrete worked well in Tonka F3's (1:1 scale though) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earlswain341 Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 Concrete worked well in Tonka F3's (1:1 scale though) Save costs. Cut off the tail Simples ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theplasticsurgeon Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 Offcuts of lead flashing - from my sister's conservatory. Ask anyone who has a conservatory built near you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gundylunch Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 I think Our Ted Taylor still sells a camera film pot full fairly cheaply !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifer54 Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 BluTak in the nose- I came unstuck with a He219 though, filled every available space forward of the main undercart, but it was still a tailsitter! Proper solution, of course, is to build taildraggers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev67 Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 (edited) I use non corrosive nuts and bolts, and .22 air rifle pellets which can be squashed down easy stuck down with araldite glue Edited October 16, 2010 by kev67 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetblast Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 Unused self adhesive wheel weights. They have their weight marked on them & the have adhesive backing, so no glue is required Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 I use a roll of old lead that was unsuitable when they replaced the roof on my conservatory, it was old and grubby so they bought a new one, I collered the old one for free. Also be WARNED, old lead will turn powdery over time, so I always coat mine with PVA glue ie nose cones I clip bits to fit, and then fill the gaps with PVA, this glues the lead in place, and seals it too Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickParker Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 if theres enough room 1p or 2p coins glued together =- at laest you now exactly how much it costs!is it still a capital offence to deface the queens coinage? just my 2 pennyworth. Rogerd I do this, but there again i do build exclusively 1/32 so plenty ot room to stash cash, and i always know where to get my hands on money if i'm desperate. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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