Robocain - Robocop 2

[Candyman]

turned some disks

trimmed, cut, drilled, counter sunk, tapped etc

using my swivel vice to get the angels for this bit

Edited September 28, 2010 by Candyman

[Candyman]

another one finished

all assembled

turned some collars/disks to mount this on the end, the pincer will go on the end.

start of the pincer

the pivoting points of the pincer will attach to this, its pretty small!

[Candyman]

Starting on the nippers, have to make 2 exactly the same which is always a challenge.

marked everything out and cut a groove each side with the bull nose cutter.

bit more trimming

bit more trimming, wobbly photo sorry

basic shape done on a picture of what im aiming for.

[Smiffy]

Really, very impressive.

[Candyman]

Cut the angle on each side on each one (look like little fish)

started rubbing one down, 600 gritt gets the right finish

found the mod 1 gear track I used for the shoulder disks is just right for the teeth! excellent, one less thing to make!

made a set of these ovals up only to find they were the wrong size

turned the little hydraulic cylinders things

thats the idea, just too short

just to give an idea of the size

put together with the short plates on, it opens at an angle becuase they are too short, better remake them then!

finally the right length, rubbed down, teeth painted, looking cool

nom nom nom

[Mike]

Nom nom nom, eh? Looks grand that

Are those teeth from an AEG piston?

[Candyman]

onto the armour.

milled a recess out

cut the middle out

chamfered a curve

that'll fit just about there

M2 hex head bolts,

[thx6667]

Sacre bleu!

[Candyman]

lol why did i read that in my head, in frankie howards voice

Had to do yet more little hydraulic fittings

attached and curled up

I need to build up the collar, to where it meets the head.

[Candyman]

Keep forgetting to update, sorry.

Onto the head, back to the cardboard as this is a fairly difficult shape to scale from pictures.

The basic shape here:

but i think overall a bit to big, maybe 20%

so cut it and chopped it, making everything a little smaller, quick shot of paint

a better size, I spent a long time measuring and playing with cardboard, I think overall this is right.

starting with the top in delrin

this is for the front of the head, at the moment all a bit overwhelming as the task in hand is rather difficult. This is the final hurdle though, once over this its all easy.

something like that, its such a funny shape you only have to turn it a few degrees and it looks so different.

[Skii]

I was looking forward to seeing how you tackle the head - one teenie thing - the domed helmet should have a slight point at the front, that aside the mock up looks spot on fella

[grufsnik]

OMG i'me off for a lie-down fantastic work!

[tinleeds]

Amazing job! You are MAGIC!!!!!

[Candyman]

forgot these photos yesterday

not sure if this is sloped enough

Im leaving that for a bit so I can think some more

need to make a plate at the back to mount everything on

very hard to get this right, the holes at the back where the head hydraulic cylinders mount have to be ............ in the right place...... I know what im going on about.

fitted up and it clears the chest, made some U brackets

ok back to the stupid head thing, this has to cut the same each side (obviously) so it has a few degrees tilted to the side and a few tilted back at the same time, this is not easy to co-ordinate........... especially when your making it up as you go along

looks like he cut himself shaving, so the back of the head slopes to far down, need to trim that, but then....... its gonna be too short, might have to start again on this.

[Candyman]

While I go some of the angles right it does tip back too far

I haven't got another piece of delrin big enough so im going to have to come back to this.

I keep finding parts I forgot to make, this is one of them

Also made up a removable plate

and another little plate that sits up high by the front of the collar.

[Candyman]

made some more little fittings

this is the little plate at the front of the collar, im not sticking too strictly to the real one here, close enough.

these are the catches that hold the head locked dpwn when its in park. They are rather fiddly!

tiny tiny

they will attach up here somewhere

Turning some large nuts down to make the big pipe fittings at the top

using some of the micro hex head screws, half a mm thread width

[Candyman]

Just a mixture of tube, rod, threaded rod, nuts etc to make up the fittings, when painted they should look correct.

[Candyman]

Made up one of the armour plates for the back, the other side doesnt have one in the pictures but I will probably make another for that side, it looks like it needs one.

metal plate for the back

where I have spent a great deal of this year, sitting staring at a picture with a slightly stupid look.

recesses cut and thinned out a bit

rubbed down and holes drilled for tiny hex head bolts, just about spot on i think

[Candyman]

Copy of the left panel for the right side

and another panel I needed to make

should blend when its all the same colour

[Candyman]

Got a new chunk of delrin a last, im using the other as a template

cut the sides, this is hard as there is 2 angles to worry about and both sides have to be the same.

using my nifty vice, I can pivot to the correct angle then use my bevel box to twist it in the jaws to get the other angle, make a not of them, then repeat for the other side.

much bigger slant to start with, some of it will be lost when i trim the bottom.

its a good start

[Skii]

looking good

[Candyman]

Originally I was going to open up a cheap chinese MP4 player for the screen

however after looking at this a bit closer the screen will have to be some distance from the board that controls it due to the complex movement the screen will have to do. The pitch of the cable is very fine and trying to solder an extended version on is a bit of a pain. So I have been hunting on the web for a solution, most of the tft screens of about 1.6/7/8 inches have to have a board with them, plus a video source as well, not only that but they are backlit and so quite thick. Finally after hours of searching I have found an Organic display (OLED) that should do the job, no back light and the whole unit is only 6mm thick which I should just be able to pull off. The other downside to the MP4 player is when you turn it on you would have to navigate through the menu to the video, with this module I have bought it can be set to auto play a file as soon as power is applied. Only down side is its a development module and so I might have to learn a bit of programming to actually get the thing to work, oh yeh ands its nearly £90 . If anyone is interested its coming from 4D systems in Australia.

Made up some brackets for the head doors, also trimmed the doors down on the inside to give me some more room.

Im using an old battery as a mock screen, its more or less the correct size! I made a aluminium bracket thing and a brass rod with a little plate on the end thats hinged.

The idea is the screen will twist sideways and slide into the head and the doors close.

Had to carefully remove material from the inside of the head.

Got the doors in and drilled in the right place, they hinge ok, but still a bit of resistance, some screws inside are there to adjust where the doors close so they meet in the middle.

adding a tiny spring to pull the doors closed.

im just hitting this head on at the moment, not 100% how im going to get it to open the doors, screen out, twist and the reverse the whole sequence at the push of a button but im sure I can manage it somehow.

[Skii]

Edit - Just found this on youtube

[Candyman]

lol, yes seen that before, I think its a screen saver someone made? I've got all the editng for the video to look forward too yet!

Spent a long time on this but finally got the basic mechanism in and lined up. The doors now meet in the middle consistantly.

Then if you pull the doors open and tug on the "screen" and twist, it opens in the right place! I had to carefully trim away material inside to get the screen in and the doors shut, it has to pull back a long way into the head to give enough clearance. Not only that but the back corner of the screen protrudes above the line of the doors so the lid of his head will have to be scooped out a bit too.

The brass bar that the screen is on slides back and there is just enough head to cover it, its all a bit tight. Now the fun bit, getting it to open and close automatically. I played with a few ideas, boiled down to 2, 1st was to have a screw/ worm drive to move the slider in and out, but for this the screw would have to extend the length of the rod and there is no room. So had to go for option 2, a cable inside a tube..... like the brake cables on a bike. I found a suitable tube, rc car antenna pipe, with a bit of heat they bend and stay in shapes. For the wire I got a reel of wire and found that 3 strands twisted together gave the best trade off between strength and flexibility.

After yet more hours of faffing about I came to the conclusion that having the doors srung shut is not going to work the force needed to open them is quite high, this needs to be done by the screen twisting 90 degrees open at the end of its travel on the brass rod. However im going to push from near the pivot point, it needs a huge amount of force to lever the doors open which isnt going to work, the cable (doing the pushing) will bend.... use thicker cable? cant it needs to make a 90 bend from the body up, turn then out to the screen. SOOOOO im thinking I need this U shape bit that I will mount the door springs to....... then when its pulled back the doors close AND have tension on them, but pushed forward the doors are free to open. I just need to somehow get the cable to open the doors THEN push the screen out all the way.

Did that make any sense? prolly not, in short, this is a ball ache.

[rmcclure]

Wow, bloody wow, bloody wow. Utterly staggering stuff.