Airfix 1/48 Me109

[eng]

Evening,

I seem to recall having seen in more than one place that the legs on the new Me109 in 48th scale require shortened by approx 1.5mm.

Firstly is this correct? And secondly, if so, are we talking about chopping the oleo shorter or removing material from the upper leg?

Thank's for any help. I'm not quite at mounting the legs, just getting into the painting, so time to get my head round this yet. I have to admit I LOVE this kit, its not normally my genre but I'll be building another one for sure.

Eng

[Dave Gibson]

Evening,

I seem to recall having seen in more than one place that the legs on the new Me109 in 48th scale require shortened by approx 1.5mm.

Firstly is this correct? And secondly, if so, are we talking about chopping the oleo shorter or removing material from the upper leg?

Thank's for any help. I'm not quite at mounting the legs, just getting into the painting, so time to get my head round this yet. I have to admit I LOVE this kit, its not normally my genre but I'll be building another one for sure.

Eng

I chopped the legs by 1.5 mm as it is too stalky otherwise. It sits way up high when posed next to a Tamiya 109.

I cut the material from the oleo. This was quite an involved process as it changes the geometry of the axels, which must be re-set.

When I do my next one, I'll remove it from about half way up the leg - much easier.

BTW, I think 2 mm may be more appropriate as it still sits a tad too high - but 1.5 mm is still a big improvement. The relationship between the u/c door and the wheel is much better also after the chop.

You can see my efforts here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=53836 Sorry about the quality of the pix.

Dave

[Jon Kunac-Tabinor]

Hiya - have to agree here - I shortened mine by the old Mk 1 eyeball - but 1.5 to 2 mm would seem to be about right. I removed the length from the oleo section - though I didnt need to reset the whell angle as a result.: If you have the time do this.

Using a VERY shary blade - chop the length from the top end of the oleo so you have the UC leg still connected via the scissor link to the rest of the oleo and axle. Then very gently bend the scissor and axle peice up so it re connects to the main leg ( you may need to do some VERY fine shaving of the mating areas here to get a good tight flat join).

Finally run some very thin liquied cemient into the join, and leave overnight. In the morning plug in the legs to the gear bays and check the axle alignment with the sit - you can still bend it around a little I find to get it looking OK.

Once you are happy with this, take some very thin CA (the thinner than water HOT CA), pour a few drops onto some foil or whatever and then using a sharpened toothpic - pick up a few drops and flow it around the the join.

Bingo - very strong lowered UC legs.

One thing - you'll need to modify the UC door parts too - as once you shorten the legs the UC doors will now not match up to the locating holes on the legs.

Hope this is help

Jonners

[tango98]

Eng,

Another option you can use is to borrow the legs and gear doors from a Tamiya E-3/E-4 which, while not quite as tight fitting as the Airfix will do the job. Just make sure you get the angles of the legs right before leaving to dry.

HTH

Dave

[Steven Eisenman]

Eng,

Another option you can use is to borrow the legs and gear doors from a Tamiya E-3/E-4 which, while not quite as tight fitting as the Airfix will do the job. Just make sure you get the angles of the legs right before leaving to dry.

HTH

Dave

Hmmmm, borrow this piece from the Tamiya kit, borrow that piece from the Tamiya. Wouldn't it be better just to get the Tamiya and have it be niter a lender or a borrower?

OK at least for an E-3

I'm stealing (not borrowing, as I will never return them) props from the Fujimi Bf 110.

[tango98]

Ah yes Steven - you're right of course but, if you're in a borrowing mood for your Airfix 109 you can also take the prop from a Hasegawa 109E.

Personally I'd rather use the Airfix kit and rob the Hase & Tamiya ones for bits.

Cheers

Dave

[FalkeEins]

..another very quick option .... I chopped a bit out near the top of the leg (rather than touch the oleo) and then drilled out each end before inserting a short length wire 'pin' for strength to re-attach the (now) two part leg. Plugs in good as new. Used a similar method on the Revell P-47. This still leaves the gear with a rather wide stance so you might want to think about opening out the locating holes in the well to 're-angle' the leg

[Don Flynn]

Ah yes Steven - you're right of course but, if you're in a borrowing mood for your Airfix 109 you can also take the prop from a Hasegawa 109E.

Personally I'd rather use the Airfix kit and rob the Hase & Tamiya ones for bits.

Cheers

Dave

The sad part is I've scraped out Tamiya and Hasegawa kits I can swipe the parts from

[Spitfire31]

Or a radical solution – build it in flying position, with retracted gear and a clear disc replacing the airscrew (did you see that, Edgar ? "airscrew", not propeller )

Then you can allow your Tamiya '109 to retain its rightful parts.

/Joachim

Edited August 21, 2010 by Spitfire31

[ancient mariner]

The Hasegawa and Tamiya kits have been on the market for quite awhile,has nobody released white metal legs,props etc,?

If they (aftermarket chappies) have surely it would be cheaper than using a donner kit?