dambuster Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 (edited) Hi all, Am slowly workig my way through two of these for a small project. On the first model I had a lot of issues with the fit of the wing roots to lower cowling/wing and this is a particularly difficult area to fill/smooth due to the wing root cannon barrels. Also it was tricky to fit the engine bearers in the semi closed up cowling area just in front of the nose guns. So I devised a different construction sequence for my second model as I would like to show this with engine and gun cowlings all open. This photo shows the sub assemblies. the cockpit floor needed a small amount trimming off the front locating tabs to get a good fit. I assembled the uper wing surfaces to the fuselage sides using the lower wing as a template to get the correct dihedral. The next few show the wing spar and nose bulkheads assembled to the lower wing and the engine bearers attached. This is so much easier to do with an open fuselage. When all closed up it fits perfectly with a little persuasion and a few resounding clicks. Peter Edited August 21, 2010 by dambuster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dambuster Posted August 21, 2010 Author Share Posted August 21, 2010 Here's what it looks like prior to final finishing: Not added any detail - I just like to build most of mine OOB. This is Ble 4 of 12/JG5 based at Herdla Norway in Feb 1945. The other FW190 will be White 10 of 9/JG5 same place and time. (I may also do another of the same unit ) Next up should be a Beaufighter and Mustang - all 4 models will represent aircraft that were involved in the encounter that is known as Dallachy Strike Wing's Black Friday - Feb 9 !945. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Gibson Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 Very nice work. An excellent alternative way to solving a difficult problem. What paint/mix did you use for your blue? It looks about spot on. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dambuster Posted August 21, 2010 Author Share Posted August 21, 2010 Thanks Dave. Its Xtracrylix RLM76 over Halfords Grey Plastic Primer. Coulor might be a bit deceptive as its under flash indoors. Peter Very nice work.An excellent alternative way to solving a difficult problem. What paint/mix did you use for your blue? It looks about spot on. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prop Duster Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 All looks very good to me as well. Your detail, is well treated, and I too, like your solution to the wing joint problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Gibson Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Thanks Dave. Its Xtracrylix RLM76 over Halfords Grey Plastic Primer. Coulor might be a bit deceptive as its under flash indoors.Peter Hi Peter, The blue I meant was the one used for the spinner. Sorry for not being more specific. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousAA74 Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Great way to solve that 'fit' problem on the main areas! I got the Royal Edition in the attic. I'll remember this for when I start mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dambuster Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 Sorry Dave, It was a 'Mark 1 eyeball' mix of Humbrol Acrylic 14 and 15 with a little white thrown in for good measure. However there is some doubt that this particular aircraft - Blue 4 - actually had a blue cowling ring. I have also taken the liberty of giving both models a white rudder as the 'White 1' foundation web page suggests that this may have been the case instead of the usual Yellow. I now await comment from the hordes of JG5 experten sitting in the wings who will prove otherwise! Peter Hi Peter,The blue I meant was the one used for the spinner. Sorry for not being more specific. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalkeEins Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 ..neat work ..& your interpretation is as valid as anyone elses.. you might be interested in the Linz cockpit photo on this page of my blog .. http://falkeeins.blogspot.com/2010/04/fock...weik-migge.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Great work there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dambuster Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 James, Two gotcha's to watch out for (part numbers refer to the Fw190 A-8 Weekend and Profipack editions). Firstly it is critical to get the wing spar central on the bulkhead. If you tack the bulkhead (I4) into place in the fuselage halves (with the cockpit (I17) also dry fitted) you can line the wing spar (I16) up exactly as it has two very small cutouts on the rear surface which line up with the front edges of the cutouts in the wing roots in the fuselage sides. At this point I glued the wing spar to the bottom of the bulkhead. Next you can dry locate the lower wing and use this as a guide to glue the upper wing roots to the fuselage sides only. Then you can disassemble and add the gun mounting shelf (H3) and smaller bulkhead (I21) using one of the fuselage halves as a reference to get them horizontal and vertical. Finally the spar plus bulkheads can be glued into the lower wing using the support bracket (K20) that goes centrally behind the spar as a guide to help get it central - I needed to trim a little from the underside of the spar at the extremities to get a good fit. Then add the rest of the wheel bay details. Secondly when adding the engine mountings you need to make sure that part K18 is central and vertically aligned top to bottom when viewed from the front otherwise the engine will be rotated and the exhausts will not line up with the cowling cutouts. Because you will now have the lower wing with spar, wheel well and bulkheads as an accessible structure you can easily construct the mounting struts (J25, J35 and J34)using the location for K18 on the upper wheel bay (H12) as a guide to ensure the correct alignment. I also found it easier to attach K27 (the rearmost part of the engine) to the mounting structure (K18) before attaching it to the rest of the engine, as the mounting pins are very small. Hope this helps - maybe next time (if there is one) I shall take some more photos! Peter Great way to solve that 'fit' problem on the main areas! I got the Royal Edition in the attic. I'll remember this for when I start mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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