A pair of 1/48 Tamiya F4U Corsairs

[Calum]

Since I've had enough of the Seahawk (again) for now, and as the club is having a Corsair group build I'm going to try and build 2 1/48 Tamiya Corsairs. I've got until December to finish 1 should I should make it. But I also want to build a Mk 1 Spitfire in between

1 will be a F4U-1 (also referred to a 1A) and the other a F4U-1D. Obviously both will be RNZAF machines, 1 in the 3 tone scheme, the other in the all over blue.

First the obligatory shot of 1 kit and the various bits and pieces of aftermarket. The other Kit is 1D Boxing. The only difference between the 2 boxings is the 1A kit comes with an additional Sprue with the Bomb in it. I think this sprue is also in the Birdcage kit as it as the insert behind the cockpit for the birdcage

Sidewall detail is adequate, especially considering that you won't see much of it when it's together

The F4-1A

and the F4U-1D (no they aren't the same images )

I did intend to use the Eduard PE on the 1A kit but I stuffed it up so the pits are mix match.

The the F4U-1A pit has the PE instrument panel but the F4U-1D ended up with the little PE levers and PE storage box. I cheated and used a little round handle from the PE set on both pits. The instrument panel on the 1D kit is just the kit decal applied over the plastic panel with a liberal dose of Mr Mark Softner/Setter. I reckon it looks better than the PE . In reality the PE sheet offers stuff all to the kit and I wouldn't waste my money on it again.

The F4U-1A pit

The F4U-1D pit

Side by side

This shows what the PE set offers , plus the seat belts, which obviously I didn't use as the seats are from Ultracast.

Edited June 13, 2010 by Calum

[Silver Fox]

Nice work so far, you are right the PE doesn't add much, the 1D is just as good.

What machines are you doing? Kohimara IX from the fabled Aeromaster sheet for the over GSB one?

I have built RNZAF F4Us so far and no two have the same scheme.

Watching with interest

[Calum]

.

What machines are you doing? Kohimara IX from the fabled Aeromaster sheet for the over GSB one?

Yup, Kohimara IX will be 1 of them. The other will be one of the aircraft that carried the Angry duck nose art

[Metallicus]

ooooh I like, looking good!

[robw_uk]

nice start - love the detailing on the cockpit.... PE just adds a little extra butm as you say, its difficult to see the 'pit when you assemble....

[Mark]

Nice work so far! Really love the Corsair. I've often wondered what you have been thinking about detailing the cockpit with PE that no one can see anyway! I guess that I always come up with the answer 'well, at least I know it's there....'

[Calum]

Onto the wings.

Powering blindly ahead, following the instructions for a change, I assembled the centre section and the outer wings . I am doing both the aircraft with the wings down

A mate who'd built one of these before suggested that to avoid a nasty seam between the outer wings and the centre section, it would be better to assemble the lower wings as one piece and the upper wings as one piece. He also suggested the use of tabs to provide some addition strength.

Some dry fitting made me feel bit happier as to the fit of the wings. I did add some tabs though. Mainly to try and reduce the chance of steps and provide the extra strength as the joints are effectively butt joints bewteen thin plastic. Only one set of wings is shown here (I think)

On both sets of I was pretty happy with the end result. The gap in the lower wing closed up quite nicely. Considering the join will have to rescribed as the tabs will be a good idea

The top side lined up pretty good but I still ended up with a little step on one part of the underside on on wing on each set. Thankfully it was the inner side that was high and it doesn't have much detail. Some careful sanding fixed that.

Edited June 16, 2010 by Calum

[Silver Fox]

Sorry, I should have said in my earlier post, that the best way I found to avoid the fit problems was to assemble the tops and bottoms separately and to only use the inner wing interior piece. I found this out by trial and error on my third model. Still you seem to have found a way that works for you and overcome the issues magnificently .

Looking forward to seeing the next installment.

Cheers

Andy

[Calum]

Sorry, I should have said in my earlier post, that the best way I found to avoid the fit problems was to assemble the tops and bottoms separately and to only use the inner wing interior piece. I found this out by trial and error on my third model. Still you seem to have found a way

Cheers

Andy

Thanks Andy, I'll be following your method when/if I build another

Here's the next instalment.

Looking at photos of RNZAF Corsairs on the ground I didn't see any photos with the flaps down. I also had a Ultracast flaps up set. Not sure why or when I got these but I decided I'd may as well use them. As expected with Ultracast they are a drop fit.

Instead of taking the easy way out and dropping the flaps on the other kit I figured it wouldn't be that hard to convert Tamiya's dropped flaps to the up position.

A bit of sanding and dry fitting and it was done.

I also filled the step in the wing. From what I've read these were only present on Goodyear built FG-1's.

Finally I replaced the grey plastic wing tip position lights with clear resin. I drilled a no 80 hole in the resin and dropped a bit of red or blue paint into the hole before gluing them. Then I re-shaped them and polished them to fit.

[LDSModeller]

Hi Calum

I remember this was on RNZAF Proboards some time ago, might

help with your lower fuselage window etc

RNZAF Corsair

Regards

Alan

Edited June 22, 2010 by LDSModeller

[Calum]

Thanks, although I've already painted my windows over on both with Mr Surfacer.

[Calum]

We have some engines. Not that accurate but looks busy enough. Holes ere drilled then cylinders were painted with MM steel (because I had it lying around) then a black oil wash was applied).

Brass wire used for the ignition leads. then another wash of black oil paint and finally a another oil wash of burnt umber.

Here's a couple shots of the assembled kits. The gap around the underside window was rather un Tamiya like. I filled it with Mr Surfacer, then, after leaving it for 5mins, wiped off the excess with a cotton bud and IPA.

Originally I had painted over both the lower windows with Mr surfacer as I'd read that most aircraft had these painted over. After the post above I decided to remove the surfacer and see if it had damaged the plastic.

A bit of Mr Color thinner cleaned off 1 aircraft (the 1A) with no apparent ill affects. I've left the 1D painted over.

I've got a bit further than this so I'll try and get some pictures up in the next few days.

[Silver Fox]

looking so good.

[Dave Gibson]

Hi Calum

I remember this was on RNZAF Proboards some time ago, might

help with your lower fuselage window etc

RNZAF Corsair

Regards

Alan

Hi Alan,

I've got one of these part built. I've painted the window but haven't installed it yet. I'm building a British FAA version with clipped tips. Do you know if the window should be painted out?

Regards,

Dave.

[robw_uk]

great pair of Corsairs... look forward to seeing the paint process....

[LDSModeller]

Hi Alan,

I've got one of these part built. I've painted the window but haven't installed it yet. I'm building a British FAA version with clipped tips. Do you know if the window should be painted out?

Regards,

Dave.

Hi Dave

If your model is an early Mk I with birdcage canopy (as in the photo)

than possibly. If a later F4U-1 version, than probably not (blown canopy, with/without canopy frames).

The RNZAF F4U-1's were all lend lease direct from USN/USMC stock owing to the fact that

RNZAF Squadrons were attached to the the USN and therefore were recipients of USN

aircraft to equip squadrons, and did not have requested modifications as the FAA Corsairs

did (eg clipped wings).

Regards

Alan

[Calum]

Another update.

I've found that he armoured windscreen included in the kit isn't appropriate from the F4U-1 and 1. It's the birdcage one. the first photo shows the correct shape of the windscreen (thanks Anthony from NZ)

So I figured I'd make a replacement. The problem being finding some suitable clear plastic. I initially was going to use some clear packing (that stuff that encases everything thee days) but all the stuff I had was to thin for my liking. Next I tried a slim CD jewel case. The problem with this was it was 2 thick and not curved.

I finally settled on a medicine cup. The type that comes with many cough mixtures. The advantage of this is that is slightly curved. The disadvantage is that just about any solvent but water (and cough mixture) affects the plastic

After many attempts and much dry fitting I've finally got 2 that I'm happy with

So on with the canopy. Just about a perfect fit but I had to ever so sightly prise out the sides of the windscreen. As the windscreen had a large frame I sat it in place and then applied Tamiya extra thin on the join. The pegs held everything in place.

I also dry fitted both noses, just to see what they looked like.

I think I prefer the closed one.

[robw_uk]

nice work Calum - like the replacement armoured glass.... as for the cowel - hmmmmm why not do one of each???

[Calum]

nice work Calum - like the replacement armoured glass.... as for the cowel - hmmmmm why not do one of each???

Thats the plan. At the moment

[Calum]

These have been placed on the slow burner whilst I work on a Spitfire. But's here's another small update.

A clubmate (cheers Matt) pointed out that the outer flaps should be depicted as metal, not fabric as per Tamiya and Ultracast.

A coat of Mr surfacer, then sanding. Repeat as required (I've done it twice) and the depressions were filled in (well we'll see after I prime this morning

As usual I neglected to read all the instructions, including the decal instructions. The F4_1D was supposed to have the zero length rails fitted under the wings. Of course I didn't drill the holes out. Thanks a another mate (cheers Darren) I managed to borrow a set of wings he'd drilled but not put together. Clamp them over the top and mark the holes.

I think I've got them close enough

[Mentalguru]

Some lovely work going on here- looking forward to seeing more!

[Calum]

Finally got some paint on. Paint is the excellent Mr Color Acrylic Lacquer Gloss Navy Blue.

I didn't realise how dark this blue is. Which brings me to the next challenge - weathering a dark single tone aircraft.

I've started with some random streaks of the Navy blue mixed with light grey, I then some radome tan to the mix. I think it needs a little more

The really light streaks in the curve of the wings are actually reflections from the flash

Edited July 17, 2010 by Calum

[Dave Gibson]

I didn't realise how dark this blue is. Which brings me to the next challenge - weathering a dark single tone aircraft.

Hi Calum,

Everything is looking very good.

I used a few tips from the site below on the Dora I'm just about to finish.

http://barracudacals.blogspot.com/2010/04/...art-5-of-6.html

All six parts are worth reading, but part 5 deals with a slightly different approach to weathering.

Dave

[Calum]

Hi Calum,

Everything is looking very good.

I used a few tips from the site below on the Dora I'm just about to finish.

http://barracudacals.blogspot.com/2010/04/...art-5-of-6.html

All six parts are worth reading, but part 5 deals with a slightly different approach to weathering.

Dave

Thanks Dave, I'll check it out.

[Calum]

Wasn't entirely happy with the weathering so went back and did some more.

I used lots and lots of really thin coats of the blue mixed with grey, tan and various other colours. Also used some intermediate blue and other blues and blacks

After I was happy I hit it with a 2 coats of Mr Color Super clear from the can. I usually decant this but decied to jsut go from the can. I was a bit worried the coats were to thick and would obsure the detail. Fortunately it didn't.

The gloss coat has hid the weathering to a degree but I can always apply more after decalling

I'll let this sit for a few days while I work on the Spitfire. The onto the decals.