Charlie Cheetah Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 Well, I figure with less than a month to go, I better get cracking. Sorry for the late start, I had to finish a 1/32 Academy CF-188 conversion in time for a hobby show in April and a Revell 1/48 Hurricane Mk IIc for another show last weekend. I've also got a Dragon He162 Mistel in progress for an online contest over at www.scalemodeladdict.com. The kit I have is the clear bodied 1990 French GP edition of Fujimi's F190 kit. I originally wanted to do Nigel Mansell's car for the 1990 French GP until I came accross some stats I forgot about. Nigel had a DNF on that race, but his teammate Alain Prost won the race, on his home circuit. That was also Ferrari's 100th grand prix win. So with that in mind, I decided on doing Prost's car instead. (I am more a fan of Mansell though). I've also got a set of Tabu Designs tobacco sponsor decals and so Model Factory Hiro harnesses. Plus I have some color matched paint from Zero Paints. I cut the first bag open this morning and started work assembling the engine block/transmission so I could airbrush it as a whole. I airbrushed it with Model Master Metalizer "Jet Exhaust" which is a nice very dark metallic shade, similar to a matt gun metal. I also airbrushed some other components with Tamiya satin black, and picked out other details using various Model Master and Testor's paints. The only reference I could find for that engine was at www.gurneyflap.com and showed the cam covers in a gloss red, according to the kit instructions, they should be metallic grey, but the red looks better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 Nice start, mate, and good choice. You can always do Mansell's Portugal winner later! Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Cheetah Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 (edited) Thank you Master. A little more work done on the tipo 038 V12. The air box, intake funnels and fuel injectors in place, as well as the first test fit of the bundle of snakes also known as the exhaust headers. They look a bit rough now, but I will be repainting them to look like they have been through a few heat cycles. Edited June 8, 2010 by Charlie Cheetah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmonk Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Great start, engine & gearbox looking good. The photos on Gurney flap have to be taken with a pinch of salt as they are usually show or restored cars. The cam covers were never red on the actual race cars, it appears that Ferrari have a habit if painting show engine cam covers red, I had the same issue with pictures of the 126CK engine. Have to agree though it does look nice. Keep it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Hooded Claw Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Have a look at mu build thread for the Mexican version of that kit (only one part differs!) you may find a few pointers/issues in there. http://www.f1m.com/main/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12363 THC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Cheetah Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 (edited) Have a look at mu build thread for the Mexican version of that kit (only one part differs!) you may find a few pointers/issues in there.http://www.f1m.com/main/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12363 THC Thanks THC, Ill be looking at that for some tips for sure. What color did you use for the brake rotors? The kit instructions call out for flat black, I used Tamiya Nato black but that still looks too dark. I think I may strip the cam covers again and start over, they do look better in the original shades. edit: I thought about visiting F1M. I used to be a member there but I havent logged in there in years, I think my username there was "312Tifosi" Edited June 8, 2010 by Charlie Cheetah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Cheetah Posted June 9, 2010 Author Share Posted June 9, 2010 (edited) I stripped the cam covers today and repainted them in CF color I used for the engine block, looks more realoistic now. THanks for the tip THC. Edited June 9, 2010 by Charlie Cheetah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Hooded Claw Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 For the brake rotors I use a mix of Alclad steel and Dark Grey Enamel. THC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Cheetah Posted June 10, 2010 Author Share Posted June 10, 2010 For the brake rotors I use a mix of Alclad steel and Dark Grey Enamel.THC Thanks again THC. I dont have any Alclad Steel, I may try concocting my own mix. I have a Humbrol color here that looks like a medium bluish grey with a hint olf a metallic sheen. Maybe that mixed some darker graphite shade might do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmonk Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 Does the Fujimi kit come with the radiator piping or is it like the tamiya kit of the F189 where it is missing and needs to be scratch built. I have the F189 part built and it looks completely different with all the plumbing in. Keep up the good work, glad you repainted the cam covers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Hooded Claw Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 Does the Fujimi kit come with the radiator piping or is it like the tamiya kit of the F189 where it is missing and needs to be scratch built.I have the F189 part built and it looks completely different with all the plumbing in. Keep up the good work, glad you repainted the cam covers! No Radiator pipes are in the kit, a bit dubious shape wise but in there none the less. THC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Cheetah Posted June 10, 2010 Author Share Posted June 10, 2010 Does the Fujimi kit come with the radiator piping or is it like the tamiya kit of the F189 where it is missing and needs to be scratch built.I have the F189 part built and it looks completely different with all the plumbing in. Keep up the good work, glad you repainted the cam covers! No Radiator pipes are in the kit, a bit dubious shape wise but in there none the less.THC Hmm, The kit I have comes ith the radiator hoses, as well as the fuel injector parts for around the airbox. In fact there is quite a bit more detail than the Tamiya kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Hooded Claw Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 Sorry I dropped a Comma should have read No, Radiator pipers ARE in there..... THC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Cheetah Posted June 14, 2010 Author Share Posted June 14, 2010 Ahh, no problem. I didnt know for sure, I thought maybe different versions had different levels of detail. Anyways, not much new to report. I did notice a really badly done ejector pin mark at the rear of the bodywork, looks like the pin in the mold was rotated 180 degrees when the sprue was molded. The end result was a wedge of clear sprue sticking down from the inside and a small crescent shaped hole showing through on the outside. I filled it in with about 3 applications of Tamiya putty then sanded it smooth. Once that was done I shot a few coats of Mr Surfacer 1000 thinned with lacquer thinner, sanded and smoothed it with 2400 and 3200 grit sanding pads, then I sprayed a few coats of Tamiya fine white surface primer and sanded and smoothed that. I'd never used the Tamiya Fine White before, I must say I am really impressed. It went down evenly and dried to sandable finish in very little time. I've always had trouble painting white before, Between this and Tamiya's white acrylic paint, my problems are solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Cheetah Posted June 21, 2010 Author Share Posted June 21, 2010 (edited) Listening to the Boomtown Rats right now... "I don't like Mondays' Who would have guessed that Tamiya tape making over Tamiya Clear gloss that has been curing for at least 72 hours, probably longer, would eat into the clear gloss. Maybe its the damned humidity. So whatever, while trying to clean it up, I ended up making a bigger mess so now Ill have to strip it down to the at least the primer again. Trouble is I am almost out of Tamiya clear gloss so I wont be able to use that over the Zero Paints Rosso. I have some Model Master Italian Red in both enamel and acrylic I had been saving for another project, guess Ill have to use one of those. Edit: I believe what's happened was the humidity caused the adhesive to seperate from the paper of the Tamiya tape, and possibly the high relative humidity has kept the clear coat from curing completely. I was able to strip the clear coat off with some oven cleaner, I will wash it down now, let it air dry, touch up what I need to then see about sealing it up again. Ill have to see about how I will clear coat that. Edited June 22, 2010 by Charlie Cheetah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 That's a real shame. Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmonk Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Is there an issue with Zero paints and Ferraris!!! Although my problem was with Halfords Clear. Hope you get it sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 A great tip I read a few years ago regarding carbon brake discs is to spray them with either a dark metallic Testors Metalizer or an Alclad metallic, then when dry spray them lightly with cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) accelerator. The Ferrari looks great!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Cheetah Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 Well things are looking up. I have stripped off the old clear coat, sanded down the red Zero Paint, sprayed on a new coat of Tamiya fine white primer, dropped it on the floor, removed cat hair from the quickly drying primer coat, attempted to strip down the primer, decided to let it dry then sand it smooth again, and now I have applied 2 more coats of primer. Looking better now. Ill let it set up some before I attempt to spray on a new color coat. Cheers C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Aha, you are owned by a cat, then. Good man. Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Cheetah Posted June 24, 2010 Author Share Posted June 24, 2010 We have 2 actually. They are not supposed to be allowed in the model room / studio but they still manage to sneak in once in a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 We've only got one, but he's got a thing for jigsaw puzzles. If he sees a puzzle, he must lay on it. I think it's an addiction. Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Cheetah Posted June 29, 2010 Author Share Posted June 29, 2010 (edited) 1 day left, I better start posting some pictures. many of these were taken a few weeks ago, I just never got a chance to upload the pictures, or I forgot to do so. Here's my simulated CF effect. Model Master exhaust, lightly buffed then overcoated with Future (or Klear as you gents accross the pond call it) Here is the first coat of Zero Paints red before the tamiya tape adhesive screwup. On the second attempt, I used Model Master clear gloss lacquer and it went down beutifully, I only needed a few coats compared to the half dozen or so I did with the Tamiya clear. The only thing I dont like about it MM lacquer is it tends to yellow over time so I try not to use it over light colors, should be fine over the red. Edited June 29, 2010 by Charlie Cheetah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Cheetah Posted June 29, 2010 Author Share Posted June 29, 2010 Now for some more up to date pics. The seat, one of the PE buckle parts dissapeared after it was attached, Ill see what I can do with that. Engine compartement almost complete, just a few bits left to place. Almost done, I should be able to wrap it up tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi-Jiff Kenobi Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Looking good. Obi-Jiff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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