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1/32 WNW Sopwith Pup RFC


T-Tango

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My kit arrived today, on opening the box, just one word describes it, WOW, unfortunately I won't be starting it just yet :whistle: as I am still working on my Great War GB Camel, pics will follow when I start the build.

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You will be very happy building this kit, it goes together so easy and builds up to be a very nice model.

I finished mine a few weeks ago, if you would like to see my build log please go to my web site.

Des.

http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com

Edited by beeza1
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I agree with both of you about it being a fantastic kit, the thing that crossed my mind immediately after the WOW factor had passed was, the other WWI kit manufacturers have a hell of a lot of catching up to do and some of them you pay a considerable amount more than what you pay for a WNW kit.

Thanks Des, I've already bookmarked your website and I'm really impressed, if it is ok with you I could be in touch if I get any problems in the build.

I'm really starting to enjoy building WWI 'stringbags' now, It must be my warped mind. :mental:

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Did u forgot he pics my friend or. Having the same one on the shelfand planiong to send up some pics soon I´m interested in your´s

Larsa

Hi Larsa, I haven't forgotten the pics, I will take some when I start the kit, at the moment I am still building my Sopwith Camel for the Great War GB.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Morning all;

Ok, I've finished the Camel for the Great War GB, so it's on to the WNW Pup, all I can say is this is a tremendous looking kit, the level of detail is fantastic, superb moulding and as far as I can see a total lack of flash, if WNW can do it then other manufacturers perhaps should try a little harder with their efforts, but there again thats only my opinion.

Any way on to the pics.

pup01.jpg

First up the box shot, the only small critique here is perhaps they could have made the box a tad larger as the 2 main sprues are a bit of a tight fit.

pup02.jpg

pup03.jpg

The two main sprues.

pup04.jpg

Two smaller sprues and the clear sprue.

pup05.jpg

Superb Cartograph decals and a lovely detailed PE seat belt.

pup06.jpg

And finally a 22, yes 22 page instruction manual which is a work of art in itself.

Right thats it, on with the build, will post pics as I progress

Cheers

Pete Letshopeicandothisbabyjustice.

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Sweet start there my friend, I´m just ahead off you for the moment but I´m shure that you will be done before me :P Offcourse there´s no race here, I´m just to old for race nowadays

Larsa

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Sweet start there my friend, I´m just ahead off you for the moment but I´m shure that you will be done before me :P Offcourse there´s no race here, I´m just to old for race nowadays

Larsa

Me to Larsa, I just build nice and slow and steadily, I like to enjoy my modelling.

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Me to Larsa, I just build nice and slow and steadily, I like to enjoy my modelling.

Yep, the fun ends when the model is finished,then we take another model and keeps the fun-karma up again.

Larsa

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At least with the WNW kits, the assembly might be easy, but at the end there is always the rigging. :hypnotised:

There´s the modelling starts :partytime:

You can always mess it up good and start alover agian :badmood:

The hard one is to find a flat lycrathread for this one.

Larsa

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Evening all,

Time for another update, after what seems an eternity of painting wood and waiting for it to dry, I've finally managed to glue some plastic.

As usual any comments, good or critical, gratefully received.

pup09.jpg

Cheers for now

Pete.

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I agree its a lovely prop. Laminations sometimes look overdone. I was at Shuttleworth last week and looked at a Sopwith Scout original prop. The wood is quite dark and laminations only visible very close up. You have it spot on and I would like to copy your method, if you would like to share?

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I agree its a lovely prop. Laminations sometimes look overdone. I was at Shuttleworth last week and looked at a Sopwith Scout original prop. The wood is quite dark and laminations only visible very close up. You have it spot on and I would like to copy your method, if you would like to share?

The way that I create the wood effect, first I paint the part, prop or spar a light colour, I normally use Vallejo Model Colour Beige No. 70917, I let it dry then I use Winsor & Newton Artisan Water Mixable Oil Colour, as to how dark I want my wood I use Raw Sienna (light wood), Burnt Sienna mixed with Burnt Umber for darker wood, Burnt Sienna is very red so I tone it down with the Burnt Umber, I apply the oil colour with a soft synthetic flat brush, the one I use funnily enough, I picked up a set of 5 brushes from Tescos last year for £2, I apply the oil paint, then when I've achieved the approx wood grain effect I'm after I very gently draw the brush along the the part to straighten the grain, when I'm happy with the look of the wood I let it dry, normally about 3 to 4 days, when it's dry I then coat it with Klear as many as 8 to 10 coats allowing the Klear to dry between each coat.

I hope this explanation is clear to you, if not I will try and clear up any probs you might have.

Cheers

Pete

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