Jump to content

Walrus's build


AnonymousFO98

Recommended Posts

Thanks chaps

Decided that I would start having to think too much about repainted areas so left it alone Troy.

Hope the dope colour is about right.

From what i saw on the Hawker Restorations site, that's a good match. This is only pic i could find, I know it's the outside... pretty good match for the red primer i'd say.

gallery-203-med.jpg

Nearly got it finished and want to start closing up the fuselage soon.

Again the macro makes it look a lot worse than with the naked eye, and doesn't look too bad in the flesh. Honest

With my eyesight no longer as good up close as many years ago....and having a digital camera, I have noticed this macro effect, so if it looks pretty good under this magnification, it as good as it will ever need to be! :)

It's actually a good way to check your work.

cheers

T

Edited by Troy Smith
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Paul,

Great work me old mate, keep it going. Buy the way for someone who wasn't going to add much detail you are doing very well resisting adding any!!!! :whistle:

Which red did you use to represent the primer?

you'll have to tell me how you created those seat belts, they look really good. If you don't I'll send the boys around to pay you a visit!!!!! Lol. :evil_laugh:

Doug.

Edited by Doug
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the vote of support guys :D

Super pic Troy would make a great diorama :hypnotised:

The seat belts were made from Brown Stuff Doug.

I rolled it until it was suitably fine enough and gently flattened it.

Left it to harden slightly then built it up in sections on the seat.

They are overscale in thckness, but you don't really notice, but unlike the tamiya tape type belts or even PE it is easy to model into a more natural position imho.

It was a bit fiddly but I reckon it was worth the extra bit of effort.

The red... erm... I just sorta made it up as I went along until it looked about right.

As scientific and precise as I ever get.

All paints used were Citadel. First I used Citadel foundation biege (forget the proper name) to cover the grey primer.

Gave it a crimson wash then played about with mixes of Scab Red, white and Graveyard Earth (dark brown)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Deacon

Have closed up the fuselage

Need to get a move on if am to finish on time :frantic:

Am wondering what colour the wheel hubs should be - have looked through refs and on internet without success.

Art work shows a different colour to the underside, possibly Aluminium.

But have found nothing definitive. Luckily if I get it wrong I can probably correct the hubs when in situ.

It would just be a tad awkward.

Is black is correct for the engine please?

Not sure about that. :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is black is correct for the engine please?

Not sure about that. :unsure:

When searching for info on the Bristol Mercury, which also powers the Blenheim, I found in most cases the engine is substantially black. Some restored examples have more clean alloy on show, but black seems more convincing.

I painted mine silver, then gave a very heavy wash over the cylinders, leaving just the high points bright. The crankcase was then finished in black/very dark grey, which I feel looks OK.

Cheers,

Bill.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that Bill

Have gone with the black. Museum shots show a black engine but am wary of preserved paint jobs.

Was hoping to detail the engine a bit more but still have a lot to do and in danger of running out of time.

Good news is that the nacelle is on the fuselage.

Bad news is that the Matchbox kit is a MkII but the aircraft I am depicting was a MkIII :doh:

There is some difference with the engine but going to have to go with what I have unfortunately :(

The most obvious difference are the cowling blisters, which are absent on the mkII so a fiddly job in prospect.

Have got the legs glued together, with wobbly wheels. :lol:

Think I shall end up trying to fix the wheels in place rather than allowing them to rotate as per instructions.

ps managed to find an Airfix blenheim engine but the cowling is too large in diameter :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ps managed to find an Airfix blenheim engine but the cowling is too large in diameter :(

Would the Frog/Novo/Revell cowling be any better? Diameter is a shade under 19mm.

If it suits I'll see if I can rustle up a spare,

Cheers,

Bill.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bill

that is very kind thanks

but the kit part is on and have sanded it down.

Not sure it looks quite right but am now concerned about the time (or lack of) left

So will just have to go with what I have,

will try and get the undercart on soon and take pics.

fwiw am trying to tame the trenches :banghead:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have got the legs glued together, with wobbly wheels. :lol:

Think I shall end up trying to fix the wheels in place rather than allowing them to rotate as per instructions.

if you're fixing the wheels instead of having them rotate, remember that when you take the finished model on the obligatory circuit of the house, you need to land on a very shiny surface, otherwise you risk loosing the undercarriage on say - the carpet. I always clear a good section of the kitchen work top, with enough room to turn around, before take-off for the short flight back to the display shelf :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...