Jump to content

Matchbox 1/32 Bf109e


dr_gn

Recommended Posts

hi

i love your work on this old kit

word of caution re von Werra pic: the "collar" on the port MG has been pushed back i think, and in real life would be mounted much further forward (think about how the guns are offset when you see them with the cowling in place)

hope this helps

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi

i love your work on this old kit

word of caution re von Werra pic: the "collar" on the port MG has been pushed back i think, and in real life would be mounted much further forward (think about how the guns are offset when you see them with the cowling in place)

hope this helps

Nick

Thanks Nick. Yes I see what you mean (although I guess the port gun collar shuold be further back than shown, not forward?).

TBH I was going to make them match the cowling anyway. I'm in two minds as to whether to leave then off altogether; seems a crime to cover up those amazing brass guns - they will be the highlight of the model - I love them!

Edited by dr_gn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Garth:

Cracking build all round - looking forward to more...

Best regards

Steve :)

Appreciate you comments Steve. Believe me I'm looking forward to finishing it too...this has been going on for too long now, but it's an excellent learning experience.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Cheers Kev, I'm sure it will.

Have you bought this canopy too?

No mate, I don't have it, though I'm sorely tempted by it (and Radu's seat belts too!). I have a Squadron vac canopy for mine, but I'm not sure if I'll use it yet. I used one when I built the Hasegawa kit a couple of years ago, and butchered it a bit. I haven't really started mine yet, but it's part of the LSP BoB GB if you're interested in following it:

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=30870

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No mate, I don't have it, though I'm sorely tempted by it (and Radu's seat belts too!). I have a Squadron vac canopy for mine, but I'm not sure if I'll use it yet. I used one when I built the Hasegawa kit a couple of years ago, and butchered it a bit. I haven't really started mine yet, but it's part of the LSP BoB GB if you're interested in following it:

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=30870

Kev

Wow, that looks awesome! Great finish. I can see you went through the same engine bay masking issues I'm currently running through in my mind! Mines a bit of a boring scheme, but it's got some local/family interest to it. I'll definitely keep tabs on your Mtchbox build. Interesting you've gone for aftermarket stuff I never even knew existed (not that I really know what's out there anyway!). I went for Eduard cockpit and exterior details, Brinzan canopy and belts, Master model brass guns, and I think that's it so far (apart from a shed load of lead wire and plasticard). The fit of all that lot was amazingly good considering none of it was specific to the Matchbox model.

Good luck with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rivets are looking good mate! That's Radu's mini riveter, yeah? I've got his big one (snicker), and used it recently on my Wildcat build. I really like the results! I'll be riveting my Matchbox Emil too, so it's nice to see in advance what it'll look like. :lol: I thought about filling and rescribing all the overdone panel lines, but I think I'll live with them, and hope the riveting helps mitigate their effect. I've given them a vigorous rubbing down though, and they do look a bit better.

Looking forward to your next update mate.

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes it's a Rivet-r mini. Your Wildact rivets look very nice after painting. What technique did you use? Did you flat the 'crater rims' a bit with wet n dry before painting?

Presumably you used preshading and some form of wash? I'm only really concerned about the undersides with this aspect since the upper surfaces are very dark and won't show the rivets vey well.

Any other advice on this stuff would be appreciated! Did you have to rivet any small circular features??

Cheers

I didn't worry about the slight raised effect on the rivets, as the Wildcat has raised rivets anyway. Plus, after priming, painting and a couple of clear coats, there's almost no raised effect left to speak of. The rivets are actually quite delicate, so I was afraid of obliterating them if I rubbed them down.

As for highlighting them, I used a wash for the lower surfaces, but tried some light blue chalk pastels for the dark upper colours. It highlighted the rivets just enough so that you notice them from certain angles. The effect is really quite subtle, and hard to photograph, but it's there. I'll try it again for sure.

I didn't have to rivet any small circular features on that model, but where I do, I just use the same needle-in-a-pin-vise that I use for scribing, and poke little holes. They tend to be more pronounced than what Radu's riveter produces, but I like that slight variation anyway. Check the round hatch behind the rear cockpit decking in this photo:

post-3071-1285047887.jpg

The outside rivets were done as described above, whereas the small centre fastener was done with a tiny drill bit. Same with the access hatch further aft. (This photo is from my current build.)

HTH,

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't worry about the slight raised effect on the rivets, as the Wildcat has raised rivets anyway. Plus, after priming, painting and a couple of clear coats, there's almost no raised effect left to speak of. The rivets are actually quite delicate, so I was afraid of obliterating them if I rubbed them down.

As for highlighting them, I used a wash for the lower surfaces, but tried some light blue chalk pastels for the dark upper colours. It highlighted the rivets just enough so that you notice them from certain angles. The effect is really quite subtle, and hard to photograph, but it's there. I'll try it again for sure.

I didn't have to rivet any small circular features on that model, but where I do, I just use the same needle-in-a-pin-vise that I use for scribing, and poke little holes. They tend to be more pronounced than what Radu's riveter produces, but I like that slight variation anyway. Check the round hatch behind the rear cockpit decking in this photo:

post-3071-1285047887.jpg

The outside rivets were done as described above, whereas the small centre fastener was done with a tiny drill bit. Same with the access hatch further aft. (This photo is from my current build.)

HTH,

Kev

Cheers Kev - looks great. One final thing - what do you use for a rivet tool guide? I'm having a right job doing the fuselage!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Kev - looks great. One final thing - what do you use for a rivet tool guide? I'm having a right job doing the fuselage!

Well, the Wildcat was the first and only model I've fully riveted so far, so I'm still a beginner at it really. I also had a right job doing the fuselage! The flat, straight lines on the wings were easy, but I found the curvatures on the fuselage to be a nightmare. One of the main issues is that you have to do 2 or 3 passes with the riveter in order to make an adequate impression of a rivet, and it can be really difficult to keep the spacing correct when you move to the next section. You've got to carefully place one of the teeth in the last rivet of the sequence so they line up as you move forward (if that makes sense). And if you're not careful, you end up with a right mess!

Anyway, one thing I did on the Wildcat that I think helped was to rivet after I'd primed the plastic, as I was worried the Mr Surfacer coat would substantially undo all that hard work. As for a guide, with the Wildcat I used the edge of an etched scribing template, combined with some dymo tape here and there. Next time, I'd cut very thin strips of dymo tape, and form the guide completely around the fuselage, rather than trying to do it in sections. Then it's a simple (!) feat of coordination as you try to hold and turn the fuselage with one hand, while trying to push the rivet tool around under even pressure with the other!

For the circular hatches, I just used the same etched template that I used to scribe the hatch in the first place, but move it up a few notches to a larger size. The main trick is keeping everything centered.

Hopefully some of that was useful mate, or even made sense!

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it looks pretty good mate! It seems you're coping pretty well with the challenges at hand, and I don't think I can offer anything that would improve on what you're already doing. Personally I'm more interested in the effect the rivets create, rather than having them all perfect, so a few grungy bits don't bother me overly. Having said that, I still try to get them as perfect as I can! I assume that the hard, slightly brittle Matchbox plastic is a bit difficult to rivet too, no?

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it looks pretty good mate! It seems you're coping pretty well with the challenges at hand, and I don't think I can offer anything that would improve on what you're already doing. Personally I'm more interested in the effect the rivets create, rather than having them all perfect, so a few grungy bits don't bother me overly. Having said that, I still try to get them as perfect as I can! I assume that the hard, slightly brittle Matchbox plastic is a bit difficult to rivet too, no?

Kev

Cheers Kev - I appreciate the comments - good or bad!

Since reading your post I've tried to line up rivets to a certain degree, and things have improved. I think it will look OK, since they are so shallow anyway. I'm, sanding the craters down with 1200 w&d, but this still leaves dots that will hopefully get filled with a wash. I estimate they will have 5 coats of paint (including Klear) before washing.

The Matchbox plastic is fine - not hard at all, and luckily, major mistakes do respond very well to simply filling the rivets with MrSurfacer and sanding flat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Matchbox plastic is fine - not hard at all, and luckily, major mistakes do respond very well to simply filling the rivets with MrSurfacer and sanding flat.

Ah, good to know. I've just noticed that both starboard wing pieces on my example are actually slightly bent, and that the plastic in fact feels a little soft!

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Looks really good mate! Fantastic progress. Your leather instrument cover looks amazing! Tin foil, eh? I always thought those covers were canvas though. Keep 'em coming.

Kev

Cheers Kev,

Yes, It might well be canvas...let's call it 'fabric' ! It's some kind of seal to prevent the machine gun firing gasses out of the cockpit I think.

It looks a dark colour on photos, so I assumed it was a dirty brown colour (being behind the engine and guns).

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...