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312 T4


nick

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Right then first Group build, and a not-plane thingy to boot. I may have a second submission when MY EXTREMELY DEAR 1964 250 GTO arrives too

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Any suggestions for replicating raw fibreglass, the backing plates for the velocity stacks are made out of resin coloured stuff and looking rubbish at the moment as you can see, I'm considering making some decals - any suggestions from the petrol heads out there?

Nick

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My 1/24th Hiro 250GTO arrived today. Bloody Hell. Here's what I'm talking about:> Linky

In the immortal words of Mr Oats 'I may be some time...'

Nick

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Where did you get your "Honey I shrunk the kids/ Fantastic voyage/Inner Space*" Machine from? That looks superb!

*Delete according to age, taste, or fascination for Raquel Welch!

mmmm Raquel Welch..

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OK Stumped up for the (admittedly getting on a bit) modelersite download pdf for the super detail build of this kit. Wow, all bets are off, now I know how to wire the distributor properly as well as replicate the fibreglass - watch this space. Not sure about stumping up for a full CNC mill and Lathe at this stage but I think I can make a better job of the wheels now anyway.

Don't know if you have seen these pfds before, they are a bit mixed to be honest, rubbish photos by modern standards, but this one has some gems in it - such as airbrushing primer mixed with microballoons to rough up a casting texture - genius. Also secret weapon - Plasti-dip not heard of this before but looks bloody brilliant, all will be revealed ;)

Nick

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OK, ripped all that apart then. Much happier now. I have fabricated elbows for the distributor and redone the ignition wiring with tags for the firing order on both ends of the leads.

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Also turned aeroquip fittings for the hoses as the jubilee clips I had weren't right. This was actually very easy, I just turned some hex-section plastic rod in the lathe, drilled a pilot hole in it and ran a wire through it to keep it all together

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Also wound a spring to retain the battery and used some matte ali bare metal foil for the battery tray

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Altogether a lot happier with the look of this now. Just started on the mesh for the velocity stacks as well

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Love the Detail those carbs are going to be sods to balance ;)

It's old fashioned mechanical fuel injection so we're OK (-:

Nick

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been in Philadelphia all week so plenty of snow but no modelling. Got some wiring done today, fabricated battery connectors from lead sheet as well as adding some of the finer wiring. Also first run out of my shiny new Canon EOS 7D, quite pleased with it but it's going to take some getting used to I think - no more point and shoot for me. I'm making the effort to shoot in manual with it as well as a matter of course, so bear with me (-:

Also ordered some proper turned alloy velocity stacks which are on their way from Canada

Nick

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Also picked up a revell 250 GTO to bugger up painting before I commit to my model factory Hiro jobbie - weathering covers a multitude of sins that won't work with gleaming ferraris :analintruder:

Nick

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Geee orgy us.

To go back to your original question I found that on the Porsche 9Thirty5 kit most of the 'chromed' parts when stripped (Mr Muscle) were a translucent yellow colour very similar to GRP.

Once again...beautiful work

Richard McC

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Any suggestions for replicating raw fibreglass, the backing plates for the velocity stacks are made out of resin coloured stuff and looking rubbish at the moment as you can see, I'm considering making some decals - any suggestions from the petrol heads out there?

Nick, having lived my life around racing engines, I could offer the following- to make your masterpiece even better. Bore out the centres of the stacks to a much larger size- I reckon they are probly 42 or 45mm id in real life. Also, the fuel lines are a little thick- wonder if there is anything out there just a tad smaller? other than that-.... it's perfect.

As for the fibreglass, wonder if you could find some coarse grained relatively soft paper- maybe a trip to Modelcraft? and you could then soak it in something to bring out it's "texture?"

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Any suggestions for replicating raw fibreglass, the backing plates for the velocity stacks are made out of resin coloured stuff and looking rubbish at the moment as you can see, I'm considering making some decals - any suggestions from the petrol heads out there?

Nick, having lived my life around racing engines, I could offer the following- to make your masterpiece even better. Bore out the centres of the stacks to a much larger size- I reckon they are probly 42 or 45mm id in real life. Also, the fuel lines are a little thick- wonder if there is anything out there just a tad smaller? other than that-.... it's perfect.

As for the fibreglass, wonder if you could find some coarse grained relatively soft paper- maybe a trip to Modelcraft? and you could then soak it in something to bring out it's "texture?"

Thanks for the kind words, I wasn't happy with the stacks either (which is why I've stopped and only two have mesh) To fix this I've got some turned metal ones on the way which I hope will be thinner walled and more accurate.

Hear what you say about the fuel lines too, I was toying with stretching them but doubt I will be able to get a regular diameter out of doing this. I do have some optical fibres of the right diameter, but they are of course solid and don't look right either, as well as being trickier to terminate. Might have a go at stretching a long length and see what happens, heat gun might help here as well perhaps.

Good to know I'm on the right lines though - thanks :thumbsup:

Nick

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  • 2 months later...

After a stupid amount of hassle I gave up with ever getting my velocity stacks from Karmodels (ignorant thieves as they are) so cut my loses and ordered them again from Modelworks.

After all that I thought I had better make a proper job of them, so I revisited my troublesome fiberglass problem and tried giving the velocity stack plates a coat of clear yellow. It's still not right but better. I also bit the bullet and fabricated intake butterflies by punching some disks from brass shim and using small lengths of brass wire for the pivots. Think it looks better than a 'blob of brass paint'

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Thanks for looking

Nick

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